new2BC4bass

Clearly you don't know how to properly backlash a reel. Even though the line can touch elsewhere (from a bad backlash), there shouldn't be enough pressure to cut the line. EDIT: To clear up my meaning.

If the line gets kinked bad enough when the reel birdnests, it can break on a successive cast. Or already be broken without noticing it. Seems odd that it could happen as often as it is for you. I've only had it happen once while learning. Made a cast only to find that the line had broken down in the spool. Besides the spool, also check the inside of the line guide for a sharp edge. Or a sharp edge any place on the reel where line might drag across it when the reel birdnests. Other than that I've no idea what could be causing the line to shear. Never heard of it happening before...not that it couldn't....but haven't read of it.

According to the literature, the brakes apply consistent brake pressure throughout the cast. It is possible you are correct and the brakes aren't working. I don't know if this braking force is enough to actually stop a spool the instant the lure hits the ground having never used a Pro Max. HOWEVER, if you set the spool tension correctly there will be no spool over-run even with the brakes completely off. Spool tension has to be set tight enough so that the spool makes no more than one turn after the lure hits the floor. The above is for how you want the spool to react. Many (including myself) don't set spool tension that tight because we have learned some thumb control and a looser spool aids in casting distance. However, it is definitely how a beginner should set spool tension on most reels.

Figured that was what you meant. Lots of times I find myself not adding the "n't" so I wind up with the opposite of what I meant to say.

Did you mean "I do NOT see you being satisfied with the others" cuz I seriously doubt the 3 lines from that list that I've used would make a difference.

I think you are SOL if Trilene XL is isn't working for you. Are you closing the bail by hand? Tying direct to a lure that spins on retrieve. A few hours of casting a spoon on braid tied direct twisted my line so bad I had to remove it and respool with fresh braid. I've used every line you mentioned except for Mean Green and have some of that in 12# on a baitcast reel. All reviews I've read on Mean Green mention how limp it is. Give it a shot. If that doesn't work I don't know what else to suggest for a mono or co-polymer. EDIT: Sorry. Have only used XL out of that list on a spinning reel. Was using it over 60 years ago on a spinning reel.

Fluorocarbon...don't know. Have only used 3 brands and 2 of them came on used reels. The one I purchased was cheap. Mono....Many...Siege probably being my favorite, but need to try some Spiderwire Ultimate Ultracast as smalljaw67 says it is the best mono he has ever used. Have 8# on a finesse reel, but it hasn't seen much use yet. Co-Polymer...AN40, but trying some McCoy Mean Green which gets great reviews. Also have some XXX to try. Lots of people on here like Y0-Zuri Hybrid. Finally bought some to give a try. Purchased for its diameter rather than test rating. You might want to consider that when buying a new line. Some lines have a high breaking strength because they have a larger diameter than other lines of the same rating.

Similar number of rods, but 3 arrived broken. Two because of poor packing by the shipper. One tube was in perfect shape, but the seller only had a bit of newspaper on one end. Tip broke off from sliding back and forth in the tube. The third one looked like the shipper laid the tube between 2 sawhorses and then stepped on the tube. That one was from Wal-Mart and they replaced it. The other two were from private sellers and still sit in my basement. Money lost.

It can be had for $140 from ebay. Got mine for about $131 not too long after they came out. Personally I like the finish of the Type R better than the standard. I also like the looks of the original Type R better than either of the CTs. The CTs are a bit smaller if that matters to you. The extra money was worth it to me for the finish and the 8.1:1 ratio which could only be had in the Type R model. As just about everyone will agree, there isn't enough difference in casting between the Type R and standard for most of us to notice. TT agreed. I had both original models, but sold the standard (for about half its value) to a college kid wanting to get into baitcast reels. I couldn't tell a difference in casting between the two, but then I am not the world's best caster either.

Same here for all lures. Bassgirl: Like Grumpy said, the Alberto is an improved Albright....not a Double Uni. OP: I started fishing using the Clinch Knot. Went to the Improved Clinch Knot. Learned of the Uni Knot and have been using it every since. I often lay down a base using cheap mono when spooling a reel...regardless of final line. I use an Alberto to splice the lines. I think I have used a leader twice. Both times I used the Alberto....tied at home. My fingers aren't as nimble as they were 50 years ago. Plus I haven't been willing to take the necessary practice time to get good tying it freehand.

Couldn't say because I have never seen a Curado 70 much less used one. I picked up a Tatula SV TWS from Japan Tackle that ran less than the Curado even with $20 shipping. Think it took 4 days to arrive. It might be one possible candidate. The Lew's Tournament MB is a lot less and is a nice reel, but better.......? The BB1 Pro is on sale for $180. Pflueger casting reels don't get mentioned much, but the Patriarch (same price) or Supreme XT (less) are nice reels. I liked my Patriarch XT enough to buy 2 more. Love my Helios Air so I bought a Helios TCS. Problem is I took it to Florida this year and it still sits there. Only got out 3 times while there (first time it got used), but had 5 rods with me so it didn't see a whole lot of use. It and the Helios LP are priced same as the Curado. Better? Shrug. From what I have read the Curado 70 is a very good reel. Bettering it for less may be a hard thing to do. However, you can get very satisfactory performance for less. You could start with a Tatula CT for about half the cost of a Curado 70 from ebay.

I never like saying this, but it has to be you. Sorry. Those Tats will cast at least as far as your Ardent. Without backlashing.

Like I said, the majority of my reels cast about the same distance. I can't afford the high end reels so I may be missing out on the country mile casters. I do have reels from Daiwa, Shimano, Lew's, Pflueger, Abu, Okuma, BPS, Pinnacle and the unmentionable company. A lot depends on lure, rod and lure weight. My Gen 1 STX with 40# braid throws an unweighted 10" ribbontail and 5/0 hook just fine on a 7' MHF Jupiter. Put a 3/4 oz. spoon on that combo and it flies. A couple reels that do very well with distance casting are my Primmus and Helios Air. A 50th Anniversary Zillion spooled with 12# Elite and mounted on a Daiwa 7'6" HF will cast a 3/4 oz. spinnerbait so far I'm not sure I could do a good job of setting the hook. It could be the OP isn't familiar enough with Daiwa reels. I learned on a Daiwa. I have less trouble with backlashes/over-runs on an Alphas or 105H than on a Curado 51E. Another person might be the opposite.

No idea why they were your least furthest casting reels. Majority of my reels average about the same. A few do better than the norm. TT gave the Fuego CT their "Best Value Award". I've only used the originals so don't know a thing about the new models. You could up your budget and try a Tatula SV TWS. First time out I was getting average distances, but distance was increasing as the reel got broke in a bit. From what I have read it will bomb a heavy lure yet will also handle lighter lures with aplomb. I didn't get to spend much time with it because the wife was with me and needed to get home. I am hoping the reel will only get better with use...and me getting more familiar with it.

will post it here. Is anyone else getting the message "Secure Connection Failed"? I have been getting it for about a week now...on work and home computers.

Sounds like another way of asking "If you could only have one rod, what would it be?" I'd have to agree with Mike. For me it would have to be a rod 7'-7'3" MHF. I believe I have the same rod Mike has, but I'd choose the 7' MF Techna AV as it is rated for lures more in the line with what I use.....which is a MH rating for many other brand/model rods. Thankfully we don't have to choose just one rod.

If your line stopped mid-cast without fluffing up, then I would agree it could be dig in. However, if it is fluffing up then stopping I would suggest you don't have enough brakes on, the line is fluffing, then getting tangled....or the lure is catching wind and slowing down faster than the spool with the same results as not enough brakes. Either way more brakes would help. I've never used a Vertas so I don't know what lure weights it can handle, but it is rated for 3/4 oz. and if that lure weights 7/8 oz. it is possible that could contribute to your problem. I don't know because I've only tried deliberately going over a rod's rating one time and I wound up lobbing the lure because I was afraid a strong cast might break the rod. Didn't have any fluffing. EDIT: Sorry I didn't mention cast control. I try to leave it as loose as I can, but there are times I have to increase spool tension.

"Don't mind spending some money." Boy did you just open yourself up to a ton of suggestions. I had my new Daiwa Tatula SV TWS out for the first time today. I think it would make a great first reel for a newbie. Any of the Daiwas with the SV spool would make a good reel for a beginner. You could start with the Zillion SV or jump right into a Steez SV. However, there are plenty of other good reels to learn on. I've been amazed by how forgiving my Pinnacle Primmus Xi HS has been. Not a popular reel, but I bought two more after using the first one. Nice looking, light, properly lubed from the factory (what they call hand tuned) and cast exceptionally well. Another reel I really like that is seldom mentioned is the Okuma Helios Air. Very nice reel, but not quite as forgiving as the Primmus. The Tatula/Tatula CT are often mentioned. The Lew's Tournament MB is another fine reel...has dual brakes which are nice. Or you could get their Hyper Mag Speed Spool SLP. The Shimano Curado 70 is well liked or you could start right out with an Antares...or Calcuta Conquest if you like round reels. The above reels run from $100 to $580. You could spend more if you'd like. Same for rods. The Berkley Lightning Shock for about $50 is a versatile rod. Or you could pop over to TT and find a rod or two for over $1k. I'm sure a couple on here could also recommend rods in that price range as most of us often belong to several fishing forums. Buy once, cry once is a good motto. Since you have a couple spinning rods, I'd suggest a MHF baitcast rod for a first one. It will be versatile enough to let you try many techniques. I personally like 7' or longer for a baitcast rod, but shorter for spinning rods. I've no experience with the St. Croix or GLoomis rods. A rod I can recommend that will cost less, but still be an excellent rod is the Hammer. Sensitivity is very good. The original Tatula rods are an excellent buy. Sportsman's Outfitters is selling them at $110, but options are growing slim. The only MHF they have left is the 6'10" model. These are excellent rods at full price AFAIC.

We have a few lake trout fishermen here, but it is a bass forum so you may get a limited number of answers. Type in lake trout forums in Google. This is one that may be of help. Never been on it so don't know how active it is. https://www.lakeontariounited.com/fishing-hunting/forum/18-questions-about-trout-amp-salmon-trolling/

Got out for a bit this afternoon with it. Have to agree with Nathan...not about the skipping because I didn't try to skip...but casting is a breeze. I don't understand why some feel it takes some time to dial in or get use to. Removed side-to-side play. Set brake dial at 8.5. Absolutely no problem. Not one over-run. Casting distance wasn't spectacular...only average. Maybe that is what others mean by taking some time to dial in and get use to. However, before I had to quit, casting distance had already increased....without any changes being made to the reel settings. I assume a little break-in helps. Spooled with 12# McCoy Mean Green. My first time using this line. Mounted on a 7' MF Helios. The combo feels great in hand. Some suggest setting baitcast reels up by adjusting the cast control tension tight enough so the lure falls slowly with no more than one turn by the spool after the lure stops falling. I don't think that is necessary with these reels. Lure drops like a rocket. I didn't feel any "fluffing" and remember this is new line.

No leader required. A brother-in-law...and my fishing partner when I visit Florida...uses nothing but 40# PowerPro on all his rods (all spinning). Loves it because he seldom loses a lure. Catches plenty of fish and not just dinks either.

Wasn't expecting the reel to arrive until Tuesday given the time frame from Japan Tackle. It was waiting for me when I got home from work yesterday. Nice looking reel. Had to mount it on a rod to see how it felt. Great. Now to pick a line and a rod for it. Out-of-the-box my SV105 backlashed more than any other reel I own. Set it up per videos. Posted here and tried suggestions. Reel wound up going to Ian and is a different animal now. Hopefully this reel will not need to be sent out.

Co-polymer will be fine. I use a lot of it. Some use braid for crankbaits. Personally I think it tangles up in the hooks easier than a mono or co-polymer. A brother-in-law fishes 40# braid on all his rods....cheap spinning rods. Living in Florida, he catches plenty of bass. One of his favorite lures to fish is a #11 Floating Rapala.

Normally I don't care much either and will put a green Curado on a purple Powell, but some colors are hard to stomach no matter how good the rod. A guy has to draw the line somewhere.

Nice post primetime.