new2BC4bass

I am not familiar with the 4600 reels. My 5001 has a dial on the cover side for the brake setting. The 1600 has no external adjustments. My understanding on the 1600s is you change the color of the internal brakes to adjust the amount of braking. I've never taken my reel apart. If the 4600 has an external adjustment, start in the middle with the brake and adjust spool tension like you normally would and give it a go. You should be fine. In my limited experience, the Abu round reels are quite forgiving.

I got the yen for a smaller round reel after reading about how well many liked them. A package deal came up for 3 Black Max 1600C reels. I jumped on it. Have only use one of them, but am impressed. Throws light lures well. Can cast directly into a strong wind without backlashing. Since then I've added a Morrum Mag SX 1600C and the 1601 model. My first ever baitcast reel was a 5001C from about 40 years ago. Some paint missing on the top from riding in the boat while never getting used. Didn't know a soul that used a baitcast reel...and no computer or Internet. Needless to say I couldn't cast with it, and didn't try very hard to learn. Dug it out a couple years ago. Spooled on 17# mono. Mounted it on a 6'6" MHF rod rated 12-25 and 3/8-2 oz. Adjusted spool tension and brakes. What a difference knowing how to cast makes.

Yup. A favorite way of mine to shop. Used and closeouts are the best.

Cast with either hand...except when needing utmost accuracy...reel with either hand, work rod with either hand. Prefer left to cast, but will never go left only. Don't know where that puts me in the tally.

Congratulations. I've got to say you are a faster learner than I was. Took me that many hours just to get the cast going out straight using a sidearm cast. My release timing was so far off from decades of using spinning reels that I about had to turn sideways to hit near my target.

Lure ratings are a guide line. I am not sure that makers always do the required work (Is casting considered work?) before labeling their rods. Some are spot on. Then you read a test where a 1/4-3/4 oz. rod handles 1-1/4 oz. with no problem. Or like one of my rod's with a 3/8 oz. rating on the low end that can barely cast a 1/2 oz. spinnerbait a decent fishing distance. BTW, this rod's high end is listed as 1-1/4 oz. I tried a 1-1/2 oz. jig (only because Dick's didn't have a 1-1/4 oz. jig), and didn't dare do more than use a lob with that weight. You either need to test the rod's limits yourself or rely on someone you trust that has used the rod extensively.

Although I said any rod that has a Moderate action would work, you have to realize that not all cranking rods have a Moderate action. I have 2 that are listed as Fast, 1 as Moderate-Fast, 1 as Medium-Fast and 1 as Regular. I used to not have a "cranking rod". I always used whichever Medium power, Fast action rod was handy. I am guessing any fish I lost on a treble hook lure probably wouldn't have been landed if the rod had been a Moderate action.

www2farmer swears by the Lightning Shock rods for treble hooks. Price is below your budget. Also I wouldn't worry about the grade of graphite. Any rod that says it is a cranking rod (or Moderate action) should work great for you. Only saltwater rod I have used is a Hurricane Redbone 7' ML casting rod that is rated 3/8-3/4 oz. and is an IM6. The new ones are rated lower and made from IM7. A Medium is now equivalent to my ML. I have landed several bass on a 3/8 oz. squarebill. Rod loads very well. A 3/8 oz. popper casts like a bullet. The only 2-piece spinning rod in that line is a 7'6" M rated for 8-17lb. line and 3/8-3/4 oz. lures. EDIT: I am also a fan of Falcon rods. Not used a Bucoo, tho.

Then the SV must be similar in that respect to the MagForce 3D braking as there is always some kind of braking in affect even when the brake is set at zero because I know for a fact I can't cast a reel with zero brakes on, but I can the T3. Also I'd be surprised if the lure drop test increased braking if set anywhere but zero. I would think that for the brakes to have any affect on the spool at the speed a lure drops, that there would be way too much braking at the spool speeds involved in an actual cast.

This. David your explanation is fine. I have tried 5 and several layers of line will fluff, yet the spool braking has all the fluff removed before the lure touches down. You can about eliminate the fluff if you use a touch of thumb just after the release. If you set the spool tension like it is suppose to be set, you will have a very sizable backlash with the lure drop method. Also it is my understanding that magnetic brakes don't work unless the spool is spinning at a reasonable rate, so I see no reason to set them at zero if you decide to use the lure drop test. However, you had better have the spool tightened down more than what Diawa suggests.....unless your desire is to practice backlash removal.

I've read the Yumeya in a 50 Shimano is the cat's meow. Wouldn't mind trying one in my 51E. OP, you can also shop used. Pixy prices have come down quite a bit. Just make sure it is functioning properly before buying. I got one at a good price, but couldn't even spool line on it. It is now the second most expensive reel I own....after replacing missing parts and getting tuned and upgraded. I don't regret spending the money though. Sweet reel now. Several posts were made while mine sat waiting for me to get back to it so this has already been mentioned. I'd look for a rod rated down to 1/16 oz. I have two such rods. A 7' ML BPS Crankin' Stick and a 6'9" Falcon Expert Light. Neither of which are available today. Some guys can cast a 1/8 oz. lure on a MH rod with no problem. I ain't one of them. The Japanese market would be a good place to start looking for a rod. The rod is the most important part of the equation for me when you start talking light lures. Raul, that sounds like a great idea. Will have to look into an SV spool for one of my TDZs. However, it does make me feel pretty bad for investing in the PXL and Airy Red. Could have bought a few more rods with that money.

Can't comment on high end reels cuz I can't afford them. I did get a PXL Type R when TW closed them out. Very nice reel. Quite a few of us own and enjoy several brands of reels. As stated several times, much of it is personal preference. I agree that the Curado isn't high end. High end for me, but mid-tier in reality. My first reel was a Daiwa, and the majority of my reels are Daiwa. They needn't be new models. I am like Raul in that I love the TD-Zs (and in my case Alphas) reels. My Chronarch B and Curado E aren't going anywhere. Some enjoy Shimano for the light stuff. Personally I reach for a Daiwa. To each his own. Like QUAKEnSHAKE, my SV105 was a disappointment....until I sent it out for a tune. The Tat SV was fine out-of-box. Cores are too rich for me. Wouldn't mind finding a good deal on a Curado 71 though.

There are 2 Tatula rods...the original and the Tatula XT. The XT is cheaper (price), but I have never seen one so can't comment on how good they are. I really like the originals. Length is up to you. We all have our preferences. Personally I prefer 6'6" or less for spinning, but prefer at least 6'10" for baitcast rods although I do have an Aetos 6'6" MLM that I love. I also am very fond of a 6'9" M-XF Smallmouth. However, a 6'9" MHF doesn't do it for me.

Budget? A 7' to 7'3" MHF rated for 1/4-3/4 or 1/4-1 oz. The latter is rated Heavy for some like the Fury, but MH for some other makers such as the Daiwa Fuego. Fishnkamp highly recommends the Fury line in the $110 range. I don't know if you can still find an original Tatula rod in 7'1" MH-XF, but it would make a good plastics rod. The Tatula 6'10" MHF is a versatile rod. There is one for sale with a Tatula CT Type R 6.3:1 ratio (RH) for $250 elsewhere. I would prefer a 7 ratio reel that specifies at least 125 yards of 12# (which is a popular size used by manufacturers when listing line ratings). That would give you plenty of 15# line. The Dobyns Fury 7'3" HF with either a 7.3:1 Fuego CT or Tatula CT or a 7.5:1 Lew's Tournament MB would make a very nice combo in the $210 to $220 range. EDIT: Buying used is also a great way to go if trying to keep costs down.

Not obvious. However, if I assume others to be like me (and you!), then it is a fact for all of us.

OP: The best $100 rod is a $200 rod on closeout. What are you looking to do with the rod? A little bit of everything? For all around rods, I like 7'-7'3" MHF. This is for casting rods. I like shorter for spinning rods...around 6'-6'6". Pick your poison. At full price the Fenwick HMG is hard to beat of the rods I own. I've read good things about the Cabela's Tournament ZX and about the BPS Carbonlite rods, but have zero experience with them. No experience with the Dobyns Fury, but it is a $110 rod that fishnkamp says fishes like a $200 rod. It is one that I will buy when I find a bargain. The Berkley Lightning Shock has been around a long time (and the regular Lightning even longer) and are excellent rods for the money. I have a Lightning spinning rod that is around 45 years old. Don't use it much anymore for the simple reason I stick with baitcast rods whenever possible. It is the only rod I kept from that time period....as I did the Penn 430SS that is on it. Also look at Abu, Daiwa and Shimano rods in that price range. A rod I've never fished, but handled in store is the Escalade sold by Dick's Sporting Goods. Very light. Feels nice. It is a $100 rod that was on sale for $50 the last time I checked.

Right or wrong, I have always felt the tension knob affected distance more than the brakes. It supplies constant pressure throughout the cast. Majority of my reels are magnetic only. My understanding is the spool has to be spinning for them to work. The faster the spool spins, the more the braking force. Now if you turn the brakes way up and back spool tension way down, then I imagine that the brakes would then be slowing down the spool more. Normally I run spool tension a lot lower than suggested, but use more brakes than most people on here do. Nor do I change spool tension when I change lure weights unless I start getting overruns and backlashes. I am more apt to add a little more braking before increasing spool tension. However, the rod will have more affect on distance than the reel. Also a 1/2 oz. jig is going to give more distance than a 1/2 oz. spinnerbait. Now I am not the caster the vast majority of these guys and gals are. No way can I unload all my line regardless of the reel, rod or lure. So take my thoughts for what they are worth. Zero.

I didn't like the Triumph or looks of the older Mojos. Premiers I liked. Just never found a deal on one. I don't like paying full price. Can't afford the more expensive Avids and Legends. Reviews when the new Mojo rods came out were all great. Decided back then I would like to try the new model. Price quoted today wasn't great, but better than full price. My only major purchase in awhile was the Tatula SV TW. I already had more reels than rods, so I was looking for another rod today. Had made up my mind to buy the Escalade if Dick's had any in stock at the $50 price. They only had them in spinning. I almost told the clerk "No" when he asked me if I was going to buy the rod. The only reason I relented and bought it was because the Bait Monkey was riding on my shoulder. One of the few times I was glad he was there. BTW, the Tat SV was a late night impulse with the Bait Monkey again whispering in my ear. That purchase was not a wise one. It turned out I could have bought the reel off ebay for $50 less.

There were no tags or stickers on the rod to change. You guys might be right about it being on sale, and the other clerk didn't realize it. Regardless of which way it went down, I am always glad to get a nice item for almost 50% off.

Stopped at DSG this evening to check for sale items in the fishing department. Was looking to see if they still had a 7' MF Escalade at $50. No such luck. No sales to speak of in the fishing department. Found a Mojo Bass 7'1" MF SCIII. No tags or stickers of any kind. Took it to the guy behind the counter for a price check. Was the only Mojo Bass casting rod I saw. Was hoping for a good deal. He looked it up and quoted $109 (may have been some change, but I wasn't paying attention past the $109.) Asked if I wanted it. Thought a bit and decided since I hadn't bought a rod in awhile...and I was pretty sure that was the asking price for a SCII blank rod...that I would go for it. Sure glad I did. Clerk gave me the bar code numbers for the cashier up front to punch in. Imagine my surprise when she said $74.17 total. Got charged $69.97 plus tax. Yahoo! Sorry guys, but I didn't try to correct the girl. I've spent a fair amount of money there since 2009. St. Croix site says it is good for plastics. Now I need to determine which reel to put on it. Needless to say I was VERY glad I stopped by Dick's tonight....and that the Bait Monkey was whispering in my ear. Looking forward to using my first ever St. Croix rod.

I quit fishing for 23 years. When I decided to start again I wanted to try a baitcast reel. I didn't have all that many rods and reels. There is only one previous spinning combo still in use. Everything else is an upgrade including the new and new-to-me spinning combos. However, I've never dumped gear to upgrade in the 8 years since then. Just kept adding to existing gear.

I am going to side with those suggesting you buy 2 Tatula CTs.

I have 2 rods rated for 1/16 oz. A 7' ML Crankin' Stick and a 6'9" Light Falcon Expert. I believe it is a user problem. Not enough practice.

You guys are depressing me. I am just getting to where I can cast a 1/8 oz. spinnerbait with a PXL Type R and you are casting 1/8 oz. inline spinners with ease using a standard size reel.

That is why I've never used a Berkley Shock rod...................yet.