new2BC4bass

Absolutely. I just wish I had someone to teach me. Would have cut learning time significantly....I think. Never know with me.

This is probably fine....as long as you are teaching. However, it may not be the best way for a person trying to teach themselves. How many times do we read of people buying a baitcaster and then giving it up because it is too hard to learn? Smooth is key...as you know. Even a straight side arm cast can cause a beginner problems. I should know. I didn't learn of the roll cast until later. Maybe that is why I am bias towards it....because I already knew how to cast the first time I used it.

Hopefully the OP realizes I wasn't suggesting he cast across to the other shore like KVD.

I wouldn't start with an overhand cast. Easy to get a backlash if you release too late. Nor would I try to learn several styles of casting at once. Concentrate on one. Once that is going nicely, then learn another. Personally I suggest starting with a side arm roll cast. This cast helps smooth out the casting stroke and keep the rod tip loaded. Also if the release is too late the lure will just go further to the side rather than into the ground...or water...which is very apt to cause a nice backlash. Unless you are fast with the thumb. It seems to me whenever I watch someone like KVD on a fishing show that they use a roll cast more than anything else.

I've only got one Dobyns rod and it is in neither of these lines. I can only relay hearsay. A few years ago you would have been run off the forum for saying anything bad about a Dobyns rod. (At least some would have tried to run you off.) It wasn't until a couple years after they came out that a few people started to admit that there were better options at that price point for sensitivity than the Savvy line. Before I get flamed.....I love my Dobyns 704CB. And would love to try a Fury and Sierra.

Have you watched the video in the sticky on "How to cast a baitcaster"? There are also a ton of threads offering advice to guys having casting problems. Lots of good advice can be found on this site. As far as accuracy is concerned, my first question is are you coming from fishing spinning gear? Because the release point between the two types of reels is totally different. Practice is the only solution. I started with a side arm cast and my lure was landing a good 30 degrees to the left (I was casting right hand). Overhand cast put the lure into the yard in front of me. I suggest starting out with a side arm roll cast. This smooths out the cast and keeps the rod loaded and has the added benefit of putting the lure out in front of you instead of to the side. It sucks that there are no ratings on the rod. Makes it tougher to know what weight to learn on. I'd suggest starting with 1/2 oz. That normally falls within the rating for Medium and Medium Heavy power rods. If yours is a Medium Light, Light or Ultra Light you should be able to tell right away that the lure is too heavy. Don't use a lead weight unless you want to reel up to the lure after each cast when practicing in your yard. Either that or I hope your reflexes are very fast. If the braid is slipping, then put mono backing (or a piece of tape) on the spool first. Mono is cheaper. The heavier the line, the more apt it will be to have more memory. I like 12# mono or copolymer. I'd suggest a soft line like Sunline Super Natural, Sufix Elite, Silver Thread AN40 or McCoy Mean Green. Sufix Siege is pretty good too, but not quite as memory free as Elite. I wouldn't suggest learning on 20# mono or co-polymer. 15 lb.......okay.

Whoa! No need to get nasty. New people don't know the story behind the rule. Educate, don't alienate.

I try not to let that distinction bother me, but admit it often does. Professionals on TV and youtube make the same mistake. You can read rod reviews on this site (and others) and come across the same error. I have no idea what a Medium Heavy (etc.) action is.

What? Frogs in MA can't swim on ice or snow? I have an "A" model from the unmentionable company. I really like how it feels on a rod. You could also check out a Daiwa Alphas...or a Pixy if the Alphas feels too big. Lew's is another option to try on your rod. Not sure which is the smallest. With the Avid X you are in territory beyond my budget unless buying used or on closeout. I did splurge on myself for Christmas and bought two ALX rods on sale. Neither were a cranking rod. I find it hard to spend that kind of money on a crankbait rod. Not that I wouldn't love to be able to. Thanks to a fellow member I have a Dobyns 704CB Glass. Like it a lot. Good luck finding what is right for you.

Have you tried something like a 1600C? Is the rod loading properly? Some can cast 1/8 oz. on a MH rod. I ain't one of them.

Yes. Like islandbass said, it isn't a rubber band. You need to put a fair amount of pressure on the line to get it to stretch very much. And don't believe the myth that fluorocarbon has no...or very little...stretch compared to mono or co-polymer.

I use Siege on several of my baitcast reels. I really like the Neon Tangerine.

Nope. Not familiar with that rod. My only Tour PT is a 6'10" HF....which I have to say I like a lot.

He got it. Now he wants to know what to use it for. OP: Sorry. No experience with the Zodias line. They get excellent reviews. I assume jigs would be another option.

What rod did you buy? I may have gone overboard on ML casting rods. I have 6 MLF and no two tips flex the same. Of course that is to be expected in the case of two of the rods because they are crankbait rods. However, even they flex differently because one is rated 1/16-1/2 oz. while the other is 1/4-1/2 oz. and they come from different companies. I wouldn't call any of them whippy. EDIT: BTW, I went the opposite direction from you. I grew up fishing rods (spinning) that were on the Light - ML side. When I got back into fishing I went with baitcast reels and Medium and MH rods with MH being in the majority. Now I am headed back to ML for some of my fishing.

Personally don't understand why XL was breaking. In the past (loooonng ago) I have landed 35 lb. carp and 20 lb. catfish on 8# and 10 lb. carp on 4# XL. Trilene XL is all I used in those days. I use several different brands of mono and co-polymers nowadays, but only because I wanted to try new lines. Not because XL was failing me. I can suggest you try Silver Thread AN40, Sunline Super Natural, McCoy Mean Green and Sufix Elite for lines with less memory than Big Game. Buy lines of same diameter to get the same breaking strength. If using 12# Big Game (.014 diameter), then buy 14# AN40 (.014 diameter). Breaking strength should be very similar. However, since these lines are a bit softer (thus less memory) they probably won't have the abrasion resistance of Big Game. Where I fish abrasion is not a problem so these other lines work well for me. I do use 8# and 12# Big Game on some reels.

If you don't like that handle, then you would absolutely hate the one on my 5001C. Best I can tell from the picture mine is even smaller. Nor am I a fan of the small plastic knobs. I am going to check into some of the places listed in this thread to see if I can't find a more pleasing....and longer....handle.

I have no experience with that line of rods. It sold for about $95 new so I personally feel $50 for one in that condition is a good buy. I could find very little about that rod, but it is listed as a crankbait/spinnerbait rod so it should work well for you. I'd have to say from the research I have been doing that Daiwa is doing a good job with their lower cost line of rods. The Fuego and Aird-X get good reviews for the most part. I bought a Procyon spinning rod for a brother-in-law's birthday gift on the recommendation of a fellow member. I did buy a Daiwa V.I.P. Smallmouth on closeout that I like. The Ballistic crankbait rod on closeout...not so much. Too heavy. I do have a few HMG rods so if you are looking for one at the $100 price point I can highly recommend them. Have never handled a Dobyns Fury, but from what I've read they are excellent rods at $10 more.

I am biased. Monos and co-polymers far out number any other line on my rods. Especially for crankbaits.

Welcome to the forum. I like the above posts. A worm and spinnerbait are two favorite lures. I don't use 20# mono in my area, but I don't have the huge toothy creatures you have up there.....outside of an occasional Musky, but catching one accidentally is a rare thing.

Haven't decided yet what to put on mine. Another first world problem. Got mine from jet.com when they were about $93. I see they have gone up to about $102. Still a very nice price for a very nice rod.

So 42 setups? Now yur talkin'.

The original Villain rods weren't all that great. Things have changed with the 2.0 new model. Check out TT's review of the 6'10" ML spinning rod. I'll try to post a link, but it may not be excepted on this site. http://tackletour.com/reviewabuvillain2spin.html That price range will get you some mighty fine rods from quite a few brands such as Dobyns, Phenix, St. Croix, Shimano, Ark, iRod, Major Craft, Hammer, Kistler, etc. Your choice is great making it hard to narrow down to even 2-3 models. Researching is half the fun. Good luck. EDIT: Search and you should be able to beat that $200 Villain price by quite a bit.

I have no complaints about the distance I am getting with my SV reels. However, it wouldn't be a total surprise to me if...upon running some comparison tests...that they aren't quite as good as some of my other reels. As previously stated, these reels are about control. As the saying goes, "Nothing is free." Extra control means you will give up a little elsewhere. The SV spools aren't like a space shuttle freefall.

I don't have any Tatula spinning rods, but I do have a few Tatula casting rods. They are excellent rods, but as Tywithay said they do fish a bit on the heavy side. What is your budget? Is 7' or longer written in stone? How about Fast action? Willing to accept an Extra Fast for finesse? I ask because there are some very nice 6'10" finesse rods, but they often have an Extra Fast action.