Bridge buster

I use a fox pro and mouth call. The fox pro is neat as I can set it out around 100 years and work wireless. However, the calls that come on the supplied SD card aren't the best, imo. The cottontail call doesn't change much and actually I've had better success with my mouth call as I can change the volume and series. Disadvantage of the mouth call has been they pin-point your location so you really need to be ready and concealed. Good luck.

NILBasser, That's got to be exciting! BTW, where is here? I'm trying to see what states experience the rut at the different times. As it is warm most of the season here in SC there really isn't a peak but there are a few times, as mentioned, where activity is stronger but not like you stated. Thanks for sharing your info.

There are several hunting sites on tv that give good information but for the most part are selling a product. Also, several magazines are dedicated to the bowhunter and take you through different steps that will point you in the right direction. As far as one site that covers all you'd have to sit through many hours whereas a book/magazine is with you at all times. Do a search on-line for material that covers your needs. If the wind is coming from the west you should place the stand somewhere on the east side of a trail or food area - downwind from where you hope the deer appear. It should be placed far enough from the food source or trail in hopes that the deer will not sense your presence yet close enough for you to make an accurate shot. When wind changes direction, not if, you will have to make a decision on whether to relocate the stand or sit and hope that a deer doesn't scent you. If it's a really good area you can invest in another stand a have one for either wind direction.

1) Find a food source and you will find deer; acorns, persimmons, etc. They will visit these areas often but they also browse as they move about. Look for trails where they cross roads/ditches, along creek or river bottoms. Check with your local game warden, land management maps, and certainly other hunters that will be willing to get you started. 2) Here the prevailing wind is from the west so downwind would be on the east side of a line drawn south to north. Let's say the local weather station tells you there is a northern wind. They always tell you from which direction the wind is coming. Therefore, where the wind is going is downwind. 3) A deer doesn't care how much money you spend of your equipment and will be just as dead if shot with a $200 bow as if shot with a $900 bow. I have shot compounds for many years but now use a custom recurve. That is a pp (personal preference). You don't need a lot of bells and whistles on your bow but it certainly would look impressive to other archers. Imo, for hunting, the less the better. A standard sight with at most 2 or 3 pins will be fine (the more pins the greater your chance of using the wrong pin during the excitement). A good quiver that is easily detached, secure, and completely covers the broadheads is a must. If necessary, use silencers should the bow be noisy. The list can go on - such as arm guard, finger tab or release, etc. Practice with the equipment you will be using in the field; this includes clothing. 4) Take a good compass (not GPS). Sometimes you will shoot a deer and the blood trail will be very scant if not impossible to see. Take a reading at the last place you saw the deer or heard the deer. If you can't find a good blood trail go back to the stand and use the compass to take you to the last sighting or noise. Sometimes this will take you right to it or a sign that you can follow. Small pruning shears to clear a branch out of the way. Paper tissue to use when tracking the deer. Good flashlight with extra batteries. Certainly safety equipment. As before, the list can go on and on. BTW, seldom will you knock the deer down in it's track unless a spine shot so be prepared to learn how to track the deer.

MikeOGNR, Just curious but what kind of bow will you be using - compound, recurve, longbow? Fishingkid and Rory brought out a very essential part of being successful in bowhunting. As this hopefully will be up close shooting opportunities scent control will be paramount. As mentioned, you can't eliminate 100% of human odor but you can use certain products that will help in this area. Attractants and cover-up scents work but they work differently as their name implies. If you use an attractant (deer looking for scent) be certain that it is in balance with your hunting area - acorn in an oak section, doe urine where does are present, etc. Cover-ups do not have the deer coming to find the source of scent but make it harder for them to smell you - fox urine, pine oil, etc. Probably the most important consideration is to place your stand/blind on the downwind side of where you expect the deer to travel. This will give yourself maximum concealment so long as the wind doesn't shift. Mature bucks will normally travel downwind and parallel to an established trail while does and young bucks will use the trail. By so doing, they can scent to see if a doe may be in season and use the other deer to warn them of danger. Become familiar with the prevailing wind direction and pay close attention to thermals as scent rises in the morning as the earth warms and drops in the evening. Wear rubber boots as they do not retain odor like the leather boots do. The best chance to take a deer is the first time you sit a stand. Approach your stand from downwind. Deer are creatures of habit and can be patterned. Mature bucks/does will not hesitate to become nocturnal or leave an area if they are pressured. Scout at times when there is less of a chance to bump into them and pay close attention to the scent you leave behind because they can/will pattern you. Once they do it becomes Mike - 0 and deer - 1; meaning you lost.

RoryO, Maybe I've missed it but in which state do you live?

Start by going to someone who really knows what they are doing and is truly interested in helping. A reputable bow shop can save you many problems so long as they are not just pushing their product. Check to see if there are any archery clubs nearby as you can meet many good target archers who are excellent bowhunters. Ask for their help and rely on their experience. Read articles and listen to other bowhunters and you can jump-start your learning process from the experience already learned by others. Above all else, do not let someone sell you a bow that you can not easily handle. Shooting a bow requires the use of muscles that you may not have been using. If you get "too much" bow (poundage wise) you will not develop as quickly as you can by using a bow of lesser poundage. You see many "Rambo" archers who try to impress people with the poundage they are shooting yet when they put on proper clothing they may have difficulty pulling the bow back. If you have the bow properly tuned, correct arrow size, and sharp broadheads a 50# bow will shoot through a deer the same as an 80# bow. Normally, if you can hold the bow out and pull it straight back without tilting the bow heavenward you'll be ok. The game that you'll be hunting will dictate the poundage that you will need to work up to. An elephant requires a different setup than a deer. Practice as much as you can with the equipment you will use for hunting. You can practice longer with a lesser poundage bow and this will speed up you learning process. Proper shooting form can be learned at an archery club but shooting from a tree stand is different. I know of no true bowhunter that would not help someone who is interested in learning. It will be an enjoyable journey if you can find such a person. Learning the basics will come in steps. Good luck!

Hello all you deer hunters. The season isn't far away (depending on where you live) and I'm curious to know when the peak of the rut occurs in your particular area. Here in SC there doesn't seem to be a "peak" such as you read about up north - that must be very exciting times along with hunting in snow. I know that deer will start breeding here in September and have seen bucks on does as late as January. I've kept records for the last 33 years and the most activity happens around Oct. 15 and continues every 28 days until the breeding stops.

There are many sites that you can go to and find quality recurves. One is 3RiversArchery.com. I have shot several brands (Fedora, Black Widow, Bear, etc.) and presently using a custom made Robertson Stykbow. If you are moving over from a compound you'll find that your true draw length will be less as your shooting form will change so don't be concerned about the length. The book "Instinctive Shooting" by G. Fred Asbell can give you lots of help in all areas. A good bow will change in draw weight apprx. 4# per inch of draw; If you have the bow made for 55# @ 28" and you draw 29" you will be pulling 59#. Do not get caught up with going for a lot of poundage as you will be pulling and holding the full weight - not like the 80% let-off on some compounds. I have shot completely through many deer using my 58# bow. Proper bow set-up, correct arrows and sharp broadheads will do more than a heavy weight bow that is out of adjustment. Good luck.

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger as I have encountered the same situation. The few people I have run into on the lake have the same tale. I, also, am new to this type of fishing but have had enjoyment trying the find something that works and being on the water. Based on most all information what we have experienced is the norm for this time of year and water conditions. Hope your luck changes for the better real soon.

I'm just starting lake fishing and as you suggested I have been out and identifying different areas. The water temp is around 45 and the lake has a maximum depth of 67'. I've noticed that the fishfinder shows many fish suspended: around 45' when in the deepest area, around 25' to 30' when the depth is 45' and very few in any area less than 15' deep. Is this typical this time of year or am I reading the finder wrong? If this is typical, what fishing approach should be used?

Thanks for putting me in the right direction.

Hello everybody. I'm a newbie and have researched the forums but couldn't find anything regarding getting the crankbait to a particular depth. I realize that many baits are designed for a certain depth but if the fish are suspended below the depth range would it be practical to add weight to the line? If not, then what plan of attack should be used?