Ken in NJ

OPTIMA who is a manufacturer of deep cycle batteries of the kind often used in deep cycle trolling applications (AGM type batteries, Absorbed Glass Mat) recommends that chargers not exceed 10 AMPs maximum. This applies to the popular Blue top and Yellow top betteries. http://www.optimabatteries.com/product_support/charging.php My advice is to do your OWN research in buying both Batteries as well as a Charger too.

Glenn, Let me ask you what was soooo wrong about my post pointing out that OPTIMA recommends a charger to be 10 amp maximum? You deleted that one twice now. You have something against OPTIMA or just me? Seems to me you deleted my posts only here. I was just defending myself. I can understand deleting but be fair about it, not one sided. But this is OK huh??? "Ken in NJ, I guess you don't know any more about marketing than you do about batteries and chargers, another one of these posters that post what they "THINK" rather than what's fact." [edit]Edited to remove profanity.[/edit]

Gee, thats why all the "on board" battery chargers come in 3 amp per bank, 5 amp per bank, 10 amp per bank etc. They are all wrong because according to you they should be selling chargers with 25 and 30 amps per bank minimum instead. Take a poll and see just how many people here have a charger that is putting out more then 10-15 amps per bank and you will find them to be in the small minority. (Their charger would look like something from a truck stop and be on wheels) The most popular chargers are going to be in the 5 to 10 amp per bank range. Sure, "Smart Chargers" are generally required but most chargers ARE "smart chargers" today with the necessary built in electronics. 5-10 amps per bank is fine.. Here is Minn Kota's selection criteria. Notice there is no charger bigger then 15 amps per bank and the most common ones are all in the 5-10 amp per bank range. According to you, they'd be selling a product that will harm your battery right? False, because you're wrong in your misguided interpretation of things. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/products/battery_chargers/select-a-charger.aspx

Buy whatever makes you feel good I say. You're not proving much to me on this subject.

I think you're misunderstanding things a bit but so be it.

Sure, there's a MAXIMUM guideline, but not a minimum guideline. Slower is better, albeit longer to accomplish. Your statement from Interstate confirms just that. A 5 amp per bank will charge just about any deep cycle battery in the 10-12 hour window as recommended.

While I'd love to take your word for that statement, can you point to anything in writing from one of the Battery manufacturers or charger companys? I have never read or heard that you can actually "undercharge" a battery. That's why they make "trickle" chargers as low as 3/4 amp.

I would suggest the "Guest" brand first and foremost. Second would be the Minn Kota brand but be careful with Minn Kota as they don't always charge every type of battery, for example they may not charge GEL batteries. Watch out for the off brand labels made for both Cabelas and Bass Pro shops and if you read the reviews you may see they are not as dependable as you might think. With chargers, you get what you pay for (quality) and the lower the amperage rating, the less expensive it will be, plus thats not a bad thing for the battery either. It will take longer to charge fully is all. I would look for a 5 amp per bank as that gives good bang for the buck. EDIT Read the reviews is all I'm saying. The private labeled chargers are not always the best quality.

Once you own a RAM mount or two, you come to appreciate them more and worry about the price less. They are sturdy as all heck and maneuverable in positions you could only dream about. In short, I say you get what you pay for and while home made mounts are clever and certainly inexpensive, they are not quite capable of doing the same thing a RAM mount can do. Now that I've owned them for a while I have no qualms about buying another when I need it for a new application. In fact, i just ordered one for my Lowrance X135 that I got (both) from XXXX (Edited). Look for "sales" and definitely shop around for your best price and you will be very happy with any RAM. Good job on making you own fixed mount but it doesn't nearly compete with a RAM in it's capabilities.. And for those of you who implied that these are cheap plastic mounts, you obviously don't own any as they are coated heavy steel parts. Top quality stuff..

I see pricing is about $900 for an inexpensive 6' model and up closer to $1500 for a deluxe 8' model. That money buys allot of anchor. I guess if you're fishing shallow allot, it may be worthwhile considering as it's quick and does seem to work. I do agree however that I wouldn't want my stern facing the wind and waves as shown in that one video.

And at that, I've only seen them used on relatively flat or protected waters too. (only on TV). If that's the kind of water you fish I guess it would be a consideration. But then again on flat protected waters you may not drift much anyway. Like the other poster said, I'd get a good powerful bow mounted trolling motor first. I myself would probably consider an electric anchor hoist before a power pole too.

They are pretty "pricey" aren't they?

You'll need an extra transducer and / or extra power cable and mount too. Thats the stuff that normally stays "fixed" on a boat.

Bummer.... I was supposed to pick up my new Tracker Grizzly 1548 on Saturday and now we're expecting a huge snow storm with a Blizzard warning for where my boat dealer is located.. Guess I'll have to wait another week now....

Every State is different most likely. Here in New Jersey a new owner means the new owner also needs a completely new registration too. If the boat was already registered in NJ to begin with, the numbers on the hull will remain the same but you still pay. NJ MVA gets their money no matter what. Boat registration is annual here and so are the tags on the trailer too. Renewable every March.

Just so there's no questions, I intend to leave the cooler white inside. Thanks for all the replies on the subject.

Sure, a drift anchor will help you from being blown around but I doubt it will help keep your stern in the water when there's too much weight in the bow. I think the secret it to plant enough weight in the stern as close to the transom as possible. Big heavy batteries, an outboard motor, gas, a bucket of water (as you mentioned) etc. When the stern lifts out of the water it becomes a sail essentially and subject to the slightest breeze.

I can relate to that. I coulda looked around and found a decent used big glass boat with a big honkin motor on the back but most of my fishing is on electric only waters. Plus I wanted something that was very managable by myself. A few years ago I bought a new rivited 1448MV Jon but sold that to purchase a new pleasure boat. Now I am getting this new welded Jon to fish from again and this time I wanted a flat floor inside (hated those beams running across to trip on.) I found this deal and it seems too good to pass up although I do wish it was a 1648MV instead. I got a 9.9 on it because most of NJ is electric only and the next allowable bunch of waters is 9.9 limited. Few NJ waterways allow unlimited HP and I rarely visit or fish them anyway. In fact when I pick it up this saturday, I will have my choice to either take the boat I have a deposit on or to take a 1648MV instead. The 1548 is more a deluxe boat with options on it (Blind Duck edition) whereas the 1648 will be bigger but plain jane, although flat floor too. If I am not happy with the size of the smaller one, I will move to the bigger one. I cant believe how many guys do fish these smaller electric lakes and pull up in these big decked out fiberglass boats with big screaming motors on the back. They do look real good though.

I guess you're right. It was just a thought but thanks to Forums such as this, you learn allot from others. Thanks guys!

I read somewhere that the bright white surroundings scare the fish. I think I remember reading that looking at pre-made livewells and baitwells, they were darker blue inside for just that purpose. Sounds reasonable to me. Yet I'll bet allot of home made livwells (converted coolers) are left white inside right?

That's a good point, but still since it's going to be used as a dedicated livewell, I think I will try to paint it up to the waterline inside. It's a small thing to do and could be beneficial for the fish. Any little bit helps..

I am making a livewell from a Coleman cooler. Like all coolers, the interior is stark white and I have read that the fish will be bothered (stressed) by that. So I want to paint the interior something darker and more natural for the fish. Any idea what brand or type of paint to use that will be non-toxic to the fish?

I just bought a new leftover 08 Tracker grizzly 1548 "Blind Duck" edition on a matching trailer plus a new leftover 08 Mercury 9.9 4-stroke too. It has a flat floor and sides, gun / rod box mounted inside, two fishing chairs on risers and navigation lights in addition to a prewired trolling motor mount on the bow. I got the package for right around $5K and feel it was a good deal. I plan to have three very large heavy batteries in the stern to operate two trolling motors plus I may or may not have the outboard on the transom too, depending on where I am going. I'm going to add a 100 quart livewell (converted cooler) and will have that mid-ships or closer to the stern as well. I don't envision the stern being lifted out of the water when I fish from the bow, even if I am a big heavy s.o.b. I pick the boat up this next Saturday!!

Doesn't allot of weight in the stern help any? I plan to have three big batteries back there and / or a small outboard too.

Yes, there are kits. Go to Cabelas on line and type in "livewell" and you will find the kits. Price is around $40-50 I'm going to convert a 100 quart cooler myself since my Jon doesnt have any livewell at all. Everything will be inside the cooler except the two wires and I will notch a spot so the lid doesnt pinch them and either put a gromet in there or some silicone caulk for protection.