Vodkaman

Most annoying - I try to unsubscribe from the many irritating emails and I cannot log-in due to my Indonesia location. I had to use one of those tools were the computer thinks I am in another country. I only use this tool for emergencies, so I think it would be best to cancel my membership completely.

Great work. You have nailed the photofinish technique. I also noticed the 3D scale technique on the 'Olemiss' lure. Impressive work. Dave

I don't have access to all those materials, otherwise I too would just flex them between finger and thumb. The numbers thing just allows me to check out different materials and thicknesses against each other, before I hunt them down and buy. Dave

Yes, epoxies do add weight, but not as much as you might think. This is because they also add volume. As the lures volume increases, it can carry more weight (Archimedes). Epoxy has a specific gravity of 1.2, but only the .2 part is added ballast. So only 1/6th of the weight of the epoxy applied actually counts as ballast. As Cliff pointed out, this is mainly a concern for those building close to neutral buoyancy. Dave

Bob - I put those numbers into the spreadsheet and yes, the G10 was slightly stiffer. I need to do more research into the Young's modulus figures for this application. I was also thinking of doing a swim test comparison between a square edge and a sharpened edge. Even in my shallow tank, if there is a significant difference, it should be visible. I will get around to it soon. Dave

It is an accepted fact that G10 gets deeper than polycarbonate. I assumed that this was due to the smaller thickness. But the difference in thickness between 2mm poly and 1/16" G10 is not that great. So, after BigM mentioning flex in post No6, I did some bending calcs. It turns out that 2mm poly bends 4x as much as 1/16" G10. This all makes sense, as bending absorbs energy. The same energy that is used to create depth and action. You probably already knew this and didn't tell me. Now my head hurts and I will have to lie down. Dave

That is great news. Dave

I am liking the scaled depression idea, knurled ratchet handle? Are you going to foil over that, might work well with the right technique to press the foil into the depressions. Dave

I understand your thinking about the pin idea. But the pin is not taking all the stress or load. The load is shared by the entire bending length of the rod. Infact, the thicker the section, the more load it shares, so the tip is under very little load. I think it might be worth a try. If it doesn't work, you can always revert to plan B, trimming back and re-tipping. Hopefully, Abu will come across as good guys and look after a valued customer. I would still like to hear opinions from some rod experts. Dave

I think you did great. Carving is not my favorite operation, which is why I build carving machines. This way I only need to carve one master. I know, it's cheating, but to each his own so don't pick on me. My logic is that I created the machine by hand, so technically, I carved the bait by hand Dave

I am not a regular rod builder, though I did build a few in my youth, so I am speaking from very little experience. As for a repair, I am thinking trim back a few millimeters, to get a clean join and undamaged section. An epoxied insert/spigot, 3/4" into each half of the joint. This will give an almost invisible joint, with a light top coat. The big question is what material for the pin. Had the break been on a larger section, graphite or glass fibre may have worked. But at such a small section, I think your options are limited to spring steel rod. This material is corrosive, but the epoxy will take care of that. Stainless steel would be nice, but I think that it is not good enough in resistance to bending. Of course the rod action will be changed, as you have already anticipated, but at worst, it will still make a good introductory rod for a youngster. We have to look after the next generation of anglers. There are very good rod builders around the forums, I am surprised no one has jumped in here to help you with more professional advice based on real experience. Dave

Motor windings are copper wire coated in a kind of shellac. It is durable and prevents corrosion. You can buy it on the spool, but if you can find a scrap motor, you will have enough copper wire to last a lifetime, for free. You just keep your eyes open for scrapped motors. Dave

Send the pics to Abu Garcia and see what they say. You never know. It seems strange that it would break in that fashion. May well have been a flaw in the weave. Dave

You are right, it is a very cool thing to do. Catching a fish on a lure that you created is special. True, the first bait that you create will be more expensive, but consider what you have to spend the money on and how many lures will each of those items make. For example, a 1 oz tube of epoxy will coat ten small cranks at least. A hacksaw, one blade will cut a thousand bodies. A wretched file will last a lifetime. If you get good at it, you may be able to sell a few to friends, to help with material costs, but learn first, make the best lure you can, catch fish with it, then sell a few. If you sell too soon, they will never come back for more. Don't let people put you off your idea. Post more information about yourself in the user CP, so we know who we are dealing with. We are here to help. Dave LMAO, a wretched file! Glenn, your naughty word checker needs educating. Lets try a rough file then.

You can make lures on a tight budget, no problem. My choice would be a 3" flat sided lipped crank. I have just built a bunch and they were so easy and they all swam. Wood - needs to be as light as possible. 1/2" balsa block would be ideal, but that would mean spending. Any light wood will work. Oak is too heavy. Basswood, cedar, poplar, spruce would all work, pine, maple are getting a bit heavy, but could work just using hooks for ballast. Learn to 'feel' the weight in your hand and keep your eyes open for scraps. hook eyes - soft stainless steel wire is ideal, but paper clip wire will work just fine for the first few goes. Ballast lead - tyre balance weights, lots of free sources. Lip - any plastic stiff enough will work. Old CD's. Circuit board material works fine. Look around, see what you can find. You now have enough to start and you haven't spent anything. Here is a video of what I had in mind: Let me know if you want plans. Dave