Darren.

26" would put you in the 10lb range. Sweet!

Definitely a good size. How about you take a measurement, as close as you can from the approx place on the rod end, and estimate where the tail might be, I see it's tucked in. That'll give you a ball park if it was say ~22 or 24" length.

Regardless, I'd go with a braided mainline and a leader. This way, say you use a 10 or 15# braid, you can tie any pound leader from 4-15 depending on technique. I like to use 6-8# leaders. Works for a lot of finesse applications, and if you want to go for something a bit heavier, tie on a 10-15# leader...

This is what floored me a month or two ago. I ordered a handle knob seal for my CI4+ 1000. Was $1.65 for the part, $6 for the shipping!! Absolutely crazy shipping cost for a tiny part the size of a thumb nail. But at least my reel looks complete again!

It can be confusing for sure. I think time and experience on the water will hone your instincts for what is a bite and what is not. This is why TV shows make it sound easy, these guys like Hank Parker, Jimmy Houston, et al., have YEARS of experience and can tell a blade of grass from brushing the fin of a shad on your way though a grassy flat. (I kid, but it's almost true ). I remember when I first really concentrated on jig fishing. I was looking for the mushy feeling Hank Parker talked about. Nope. Never felt it. But I kept at it, and even when dragging through a weedy area, I'm now able to tell when I get a hit, mushy or not. It is purely instinctive now, taught by experience of throwing over and over and over. Sometimes when I catch one I try to wade back in my thoughts past the adrenaline and figure out what I felt and how I knew to set the hook.... As for worming like Wacky and Texas (which is somewhat similar to jig), I do like using yellow braid for those bites that are not detectable. Don't know if this is helpful at all. But some awesome responses from the others above, like @Catt. Learn from these guys.

I don't agree that stick baits don't need weight... However, I mostly throw them weightless. Except when there's a lot of wind and chop on the water. Bait doesn't tend to go down quickly enough in those conditions, let alone stay where you want it to drop. That's my experience. You can spend a lot on weighted jigs. I've used a lot but I have a hard time spending some of the prices for a pack of 3. So I bought some cheaper jigs from BPS and tied my own weedguards. I believe they use Gamakatsu hooks and I've never broken one. That said, I love the Buckeye Flick-It jigs with a football head. Those are sweet, have a wire weed guard that does a good job.

That's what makes this community the best!

I've cleaned the area thoroughly. What it sounds like is grinding of plastic on plastic. When you remove the bail wire and inspect those areas, the original paint/coating is worn off (which I assume is normal wear and tear). I did adjust the bail wire on my other FI (identical), and it works much better. As well, you know the very tiny white plastic piece that I assume is the clicker inside the mechanism? Well, the spring under it popped out. I don't have the reel handy, else I'd take pix. Perhaps I could send some to you in a PM at a better time when I have it handy - and better lighting.

Absolutely! You have to learn the nuances, thumb control, brake management, etc. There are some good tutorials out there on YouTube, and probably here at BR on the topic. A good idea for you is to either cast a plug or a lure out as far as you will normally cast (hopefully no backlash). And at that point, do NOT reel in. Instead cut a piece of electrical tape the width of your spool and apply it on. Rub it on with your finger, then reel in the rest of the line. Now if you cast and backlash, your backlash will stop at the tape and you won't lose a whole spool of line. A tip I learned when watching Bill Dance many years back.

Yes, this happens to us men often...LOL. Out-fished by kids using Barbie rods. Nature's way of humbling us.

^^^This. No older models. Stradic FIs gone. I had priced out what I wanted late last year. Gone.

You'll be fine as long as you do your last sentence. Keep it clean, and yes, salt from the line can cause damage as it'll spray around on various parts. Also clean your rod off afterward. We live in a saltwater environ, and though fresh is my primary, I do take bass gear out in salt. Most I use now is for salt and fresh, but I've got some fresh-only that is good to go when cleaned up.

What is the likelihood of repairing a Stradic 1000 FI that has a bail which sticks and is worn down, doesn't close well, etc. I imagine you'd need to take a look at it first....

Yes, I was going to post that link. In another thread that was given to me as I couldn't find it after their site redesign.

I was looking for some bail parts for one of my Stradic FIs and they're no longer carried. Plus the recent changes to their website made it a headache to find their parts. Doubt I'll change out my Stradics any time soon, though, unless they break down and parts are no longer available.

Fairly "bad" here in VA this season. 2 dogs, 2 cats. Yet so far only the lab and only one cat have had several ticks, the other two, none. Encountered ticks aplenty in the 90s when we had 2 labs and lived in Western NY. Though moreso here in VA. Where we walk, we are constantly having to check for ticks, quite often deer ticks and seed ticks will hop aboard our legs from the unavoidable tall grass growing in the fire roads. In our yard, our two free ranging hens help keep things in a modicum of a "check". More hens the better, but we only have two, Harriet and Mildred. The more hens, the fewer the ticks.

I use 20# on my baitcaster, but I'd second those who suggest 30. Would be easier. The stuff is so darn strong. If you feel better matching the diameter of braid to mono, then go for it. I've used heavier, but with experience, I'm perfectly fine using 20#.

All you need is the YouTube address and it should post right up.

That was great! Allow me to post the YouTube for everyone:

You better lock this thread before we get tu far out of hand.

I'm more in line with @d-camarena that it could likely be a customer return. Bought a Milwuakee M12 tool at Home Depot last year. Get home, open it up and it was covered in sawdust, used.. The box was meticulously put back together, looked new on outside. Return people don't always inspect returns, as I've seen too often. But I think you're on the right track with the emails. Sounds like TW is doing you a solid. Hope Z-Man responds in kind.

Yeah man, but it's a hard C! <voice of Bill Paxton in Aliens>

LOL. Marketing...they removed the diacritical mark over the u that gives it the OO sound! (**I'm having fun with this, and just playing with how we in America mess with pronunciation, spelling, phonetics, and so forth***) I actually think their products are pretty cul. Get it? <shows self out> https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/hook hook noun \ ˈhu̇k \

I don't think it's too common unless perhaps the drag was too tight. I usually go a little lighter for drop shot line-wise, down to 6# leader on 10 or 15# braid. I like to keep my drag a little loose, too. Caught a 5#er on drop the other week. As for light wire hooks, my fave are Gammy Split shot/drop.