Fishes in trees

I think that the $2 Walmart cranks are good for you to practice on, build up your skill at hard bait painting, etc. At the end of the day the $2 Walmart cranks are $2 cranks for a reason. Mold quality is poor. They are often poorly weighted and difficult to tune. They often don't dive straight. Heck, they often don't dive in a manner that is predictable. The quality of plastic isn't the best and many of them are "brittle" and will crack & leak when you bounce them off a rock or tree. Higher quality hard plastic baits, Timber Tigers, Lucky Crafts & similar quality baits will (in my experiences ) bounce off rocks & trees, and you have to smack them pretty good to make them crack. Not lately, but I can recall past seasons when I was more or less down & out and bought some Walmart cranks because they were, in the opinion I had then, "just as good". My opinion now is that they weren't and I was wasting time throwing a lower quality square bill, and more especially a lower quality jerk bait. Maybe it is just me, but I think there is a significant difference in bites & fish landed, using quality jerk baits (Vision 110 - Lucky Craft Pointers - Excalibur EE Shads - Rapala Husky Jerks, to name a few). My fishing time is too valuable to throw hard baits that are of inferior quality. To review - I think that learning to paint and trying new painting patterns is a great use for the $2 Walmart cranks. When you decide to get serious about hard bait painting, find some quality hard baits on close out or purchase unpainted hard bait blanks from the different tackle outlets that offer them. I really like the idea of the glow in the dark spots on a square bill. Perhaps they would be more effective on a deeper diver, but who knows? Keep painting and posting your products. I'm very interested to see future results. You might be the next Tim Hughes, who knows.?

If I fished lakes similar to those that Ned fishes on, I might throw the Ned rig more. When the conservation department built the lake I fish on most of the time, they only took out the minimal amount of growth necessary to build the dam. Consequently there is alot more wood/brush cover than a "normal" reservoir. Hardwoods, soft woods, throrn trees & bushes, you name it this lake has lots of that stuff. Add that to the green stuff that comes & goes through the season and fishing the Ned rig just becomes a pain. About the only place you can throw it is along the dam, and someone, in their wisdom decided to place a Christmas tree every 30 or 40 feet, 8 feet down or so all along the dam. You can throw soft plastics there, but if they ain't tx rigged, you're going to get stuck. Side note: I also got my 2021 BPS Master catalog few days ago and I was also intrigued by the amount of "Ned stuff". I'm wondering a little bit about how well some of that stuff will fit on a Brewer Slider head.

Seems pretty cheap. How does that compare to buying a cheaper picnic table rom a big box store?

This is why I don't buy rods off the internet unless I'm getting a copy of one I already have. Falcons are good rods. Pretty much any rod in their catalog would be somewhat of an upgrade in my current rod arsenal - and my rod arsenal isn't particularly shabby. The specs of the two rods seem relatively close, but the 3" difference, which most probably is mostly in the handle, could get problematic. My thoughts would be not so much for Carolina rigs, but I'd like the shorter rod for jigging spoons. Low Rider is an upgrade, compared to the Buccoo, so that is something to consider as well. What a dilemma. I think should you want to use the rod for throwing the big cranks like the Strike King 10 XD or similar sized baits from other manufacturers, the 7'6" rod would throw baits a little farther. Option A - wait for the rod you originally wanted. Option B - Accept an upgrade that is slightly different from what you wanted. Option C - accept the upgrade & then cut down the handle to the length you want. Hard to go wrong with any of the above options. To me this looks like 3 IPA's decision time.

I don't have a problem calling tackle companies out of the blue and asking to talk to someone about their products. Very occasionally you get blown off by the secretary, they'll tell you that e-mails are responded to in a more timely manner than phone calls are - I don't know. Many other times I've talked to people who were very interested to talk to me about their product. I called that guy who makes Megastrike products , (Bobby Urich I think) about some jig heads on close out on their web site and we ended up talking for 20 minutes or so. So, with that in mind, I wouldn't hesitate to call up the soft plastic company and ask about the color change. If they confirm it, for whatever reason, then at least you'll know you aren't seeing things.

Believe it or don't, but I recall reading (maybe a decade or so ago) that Rick Clunn tried something similar for a couple of BASS seasons. His approach was, as I recall, that he'd found a rod that he really liked and he was of the opinion that switching rods & reels to use a different technique caused the first few casts to be off, because you weren't tuned in as you could be to that particular rod & reel. His approach was to use 1 rod that he liked for everything. He'd threw everything on the same rod plastics/spinner baits/ chatter baits/ cranks - everything. He took it one step farther by using the same model of reel. The only variable was different rigs assigned to throw different baits might have different line, appropriate to the technique. I don't know if you recall but Rick Clunn did have a Bass Pro signature reel at one time, not sure if this was THE reel or not. This try must have turned out to have mediocre results because I don't remember any out door writers scribing about what a great idea Rick Clunn had. My opinion is just because I can't recall if Rick Clunn has decent - average or mediocre seasons trying this option doesn't automatically made this a stupid idea. I wonder if my fishing would improve if I had 20 or so Shimano Antares to distribute to the different technique rods I already own? If only Shimano would finance this modest, fairly scientific attempt to improve my fishing skills.

I use heavier lines for spinner bait fishing. My reasoning is that spinner baits get bit alot more often when you're smacking them into something, vegetation, brush, bushes, whatever. Anyway, when I'm smacking my bait into stuff, I'm pretty sure my line is smacking into that stuff too, so I generally use 17 or 20 lb line. A 3/8 spinnerbait, on the gear that I throw spinnerbaits with, would throw fine. My guess is that the 3/8 oz spinner bait weighs more once you attach trailer/trailer hook, blades, etc.

No matter what size line I had on my bait caster, I would only use a 6 lb leader if I was throwing some one else's crank baits and they didn't care how many I lost. Not sure why you're using a leader for cranks, but if abrasion issues are the reason, I'd go with 20 lb fluorocarbon . The only cranks that I throw on 15 lb braid are very light balsa baits, quarter ounce or less and I throw those on spinning gear. I use a short (less than 2 feet) fluorocarbon leader for abrasion resistance purposes, and I'll use 15 or 20 lb fluorocarbon leader material for this chore.

My thoughts on the anti back lash computer controlled reels is that they work best for reaction baits, cranks, spinner baits, chatters baits and other stuff you might want to throw quite a distance, stuff you might be throwing into the wind or crosswind, and you want to worry less about backlash. My next thought is that a 7.2-1 gear ratio is a little fast for that activity. That reel would make it pretty easy to pull your baits through the water too fast. I was learning fishing when 5-1 reels were considered "high speed", so you might find it much easier to slow down than I do. My next thought is that friends of mine who still tournament fish tell me that the computer reels are great for skipping jigs & soft plastics under docks, and in this situation, the larger the gear ratio the better. You might consider getting a good to great soft plastic/jig rod and learn how to skip baits. I wish I had this skill, I'm not very good at it with spinning gear and I don't attempt it with bait casting gear because I'm familiar with my limitations. But I've fished with guys who are good at this and being able to skip jigs 10, 12, 15 feet underneath docks gets your bait to a class of fish that most guys can't reach. The guys I know who were good at this technique got a computer controlled reel as soon as they could and now they are noticeably better at it. So that is my advice - get the best worm/jig you can afford and learn how to skip. A decent frog rod would be a decent secondary choice, IMO. I am aware that you're 15 and nearly any rod you get would be a significant gear upgrade - so after reading what all these different geezers tell you what you "should" or "might " do it is your decision, so get a rod that is different from you other two and just fish it & see what happens.

Jig heads are a variable that you can control. How fast do you want the bait to drop? How deep are you fishing? There isn't just one answer to your question, IMO. Are you pitching it at objects or dragging on the bottom? When using an exposed hook jig head, some tubes will "spiral" on the drop. My experiences have been that lighter jig heads spiraled better than heavier ones and the shape of the jig head made a significant difference. When I use an internal weight and tx rig the tube, doesn't seem to spiral at all. Check out "stupid or stooped" jig head rigging. I've seen it spelled both ways in different articles about fishing tubes. Anyway, stupid rigging is a way of tx rigging a jig head on a tube. If you're fishing with an exposed jig hook, you get to decide how much hook exposure you're comfortable with. Some guys who fish tubes kinda like a ned rig are comfortable with a smallish hook, more or less just barely exposed. Other guys want a more exposed hook - your choice, depending on your evaluations of your conditions. Me - ? Every year I tell myself that I'm going to fish tubes more, an assortment of tubes & jig heads generally makes it into the boat every year, but I very seldom fish tubes - my only reasoning is that I seem to miss quite a few fish on them. This could be because I generally fish them with an internal weight and a 3/0 or 4/0 hook. Maybe a stupid rig would hook up better - I don't know. I remember several years ago ( 2003? 2005? ) I had a season where I had decent results throwing tubes. This was in a lake with many isolated, more or less individual mature trees that weren't removed when the lake dam was constructed. That pattern kinda stopped, who knows exactly why, my guess would be that too many guys were throwing tubes at trees. These days I fish different lakes, with more standing timber and more sunken, partially sunken timber and the tube doesn't work as well as it used to, so I don't fish it all that much. Good luck in your tube fishing experiments.

Once you get the boat, take some time in your drive way and make sure that you can tighten or loosen every single fastener in your boat - then keep the appropriate tools in a waterproof box. I've had a few flat tire issues over the years. I currently keep the trailer spare tire in the fishing truck. Don't like any of the mount the tire to the trailer plans. I keep a shop jack in my truck because it makes changing the tire much easier than using the much more flimsy jack that comes with the truck. I had to get a separate tire iron for my boat because the one that fits my truck tires wasn't the same size. I found a heavy duty collapsible one that takes up minimal room in the fishing truck and works great. Find out where the fuses are located in your boat (and you truck for that matter) and get replacements - keep them in the glove box. Over the years I've had 2 fishing trips where I drove quite a ways and then managed to seriously tear up my prop. Trip would have been ruined had I not listened to a pro the first year I bought the boat. He told me I was extremely dumb not to have an extra prop & prop wrench that you KNEW fit. I found a relatively cheap Yamaha prop ( aluminum, not stainless steel ) and it saved 2 trips after I'd driven 3 or 4 hours. All these suggestions - most likely no way you'll be able to get all the stuff at once - use your best judgment and get what you think you'll need, being mindful that sooner or later you WILL need most of the stuff suggested here.

I've used those felt tip markers from time to time & agree that they work. Sometimes, they work better than the dip, because you want a small speck of color here or there, also dips don't do horizontal or vertical lines very well. If you want the tail of your bait to be solid chartreuse, then I think that the dips work better. Word of caution on the felt tip markers - I'd advise keeping them in their own quart zip lock bag when not in use. They aren't immune to freezing, should you space out and leave them on your boat deck at the wrong time. They aren't immune to crushing, should they fall down to the floor of your boat and end up underneath your feet. Zip lock bag helps in each of these situations.

What are you going to use the bag for? Not a trick question. Tournament co-angling? Just everyday fishing out of other guys boats? Bag for your own boat? Bank fishing? If the 3600 bag is stuffed - the easiest/cheapest approach is to re-evaluate what you carry and leave some stuff at home. If you're bank fishing - a back pack might be a better option. A back pack isn't a bad option is you're fishing co-angler. It is generally good to only make one trip from truck to boat. Since I don't know your situation, let me relate how I've used different bags over the years. I have an 18 'Lowe, that has much less storage than you might expect, non of it lockable. I have a Cabelas Magnum bag that holds a dozen different 3700 size boxes. Basically this is my traveling crank bait collection. Lipless cranks - shallow/medium/deep divers, etc. I don't keep this stuff in the boat because non of the storage is lockable - so I keep it locked up in my fishing truck. My reasoning ( confirmed by my insurance agent ) if stuff gets stolen out of my boat - no coverage. If stuff gets stolen out of my fishing truck - full coverage. If this bag isn't in the boat or fishing truck it Is in its own storage bin in my fishing shed. I have numerous smaller bags, that hold between 3 and 7 3700 size boxes. I use these bags for the various kits that I might need from time to time. One bag is for Neko rig stuff. Obviously I don't have 3 3700 boxes of Neko rig terminal tackle - just have one. The rest of the bag has baits and other stuff I might need when Neko fishing. (Own a good, wind proof butane lighter. Insert weights insert better into elaztech baits if they are heated pretty good prior to trying to insert them). I have another bag for Biffle Bug fishing. Hooks/weights & rigs fit into a 3600 & 3700 box. The rest of the room is different baits appropriate for Biffle Bug fishing. Along these same lines I have a bag for Jika Rig gear ( jika rig bag has 3 small boxes of home made jika rigs, rest of the bag is filled with baits that I like for jika rigs, i.e. brush hogs, larger craws, magnum trick worm, various lizards) a different bag for Ned Rig Stuff. There is a jig bag. This holds trailers & pork, also jig boxes. Jig bag holds 5 or 6 3700 boxes. I use 3600 boxes because I like being able to find stuff in the bag without unloading it each time. Jig boxes get swapped out depending on where I'm fishing. Might be 3/4 ounce skirted football jigs, might be just a box of football heads, maybe finesse jigs, maybe 7/16 oz finesses jigs, maybe light shakey heads, maybe heavier shakey heads. Never know until I decide. Check out Harbor Freight - occasionally their 15" canvas tool bags go on sale for $5 more or less. This lets me keep a strong assortment of baits - kinda sorted by type - more or less protected from the elements. I keep a bag for senkos & another for stick baits that I'm going to tx rig - a bag for bubba drop shot baits, a different one for 10" worms. 7" ribbon tail worms get their own bag and so do tubes & soft plastic minnow imitators ( flukes & such ). Still not through, Chompers get their own bag, paddle tail worms & smaller soft plastic swim baits (Those less then 5" long). These Harbor freight bags will hold 15 to 20 bags of soft plastic easily, 30 if you stuff them in. Believe it or don't, but these bags don't even start to hold all the soft plastics I've collected over the years. All of the overflow is sorted into plastic shoe boxes, sorted by brand - size - etc. All of the canvas bags fit into an oversize beach bag that I came across on sale at Academy. I'm pretty paranoid about stuff getting robbed, (even though it has only happened once ) so each bag is labeled both by what is in the bag and with my name & address. Name - address - phone number are also concealed inside the bags in different places, just in case they do get stolen, marked up, but the crooks don't check every nook & cranny. When I was fishing as a co-angler in tournaments, I had a different system. Mostly fished Ozark lakes, which while each one has its own personality, they each fish similar, given the season. So I had a spring bag, a summer bag and a fall bag. Of course, there was some overlap and I was ok with that. I considered putting together separate bags together for each lake for each season, but never got around to it as my wallet didn't allow for that at that time. Hope these tackle sorting suggestions help. A general rule that has helped quite a bit for me, is that in general it is better to have a larger bag half or 3/4 fun than it is to have a smaller bag stuffed to the gills. If you've had issues remembering what is in which bag - believe me, I've been there. For me - labeling is key. Colored duct tape & permanent ink sharpie markers work good and if you want to change the contents, just rip off the tape & re-label. Do this a few times and your bags will start to look ratty looking, but I'm ok with that. The only thing I'm not ok with is zippers that don't work. Bags with bad zippers are more trouble than they are worth - pitch them and eat the losses. I haven't found a tailor yet who will fool with replacing zippers on tackle bags yet.

This past season it was convenience store/gas station workers. Working in an environment like that with many people interacting and not wearing their masks correctly or not wearing masks at all. I can't count how many times I've sent e-mails to corporate offices documenting negligent masking procedures in various branches of convenience stores, relatively close to my house, after coming home from a fishing trip.

Try this blueprint - 2 walls - floor to waist high shelves - waist high to ceiling peg board. 1 wall - floor to ceiling shelves. Last wall - stereo/ Boom box /CD storage & misc. stuff. Notice that rods aren't taken into account at all in this blue print. That is a different issue.

Gotta say, I use a different set up. I like my Falcon Bucco Trap caster for lipless cranks - A LOT & I throw lipless cranks nearly every trip I do, early spring through fall. The Trap Caster is more of a MH than a Medium action and while it definitely has some tip to it, it isn't a parabolic action by any means. I use a heavier mono because, why not? The grass flats that I fish are seldom deeper than 5 feet, I don't think that the bow in the line makes that much of a difference at that depth. But I do catch an occasional edge of a bush or smack into something and with 17 or 20 mono, I can give it a good jerk and much more often than not it comes loose. I probably wouldn't try that with 12 lb test. Not even 12 lb Tatsu. That Bucco Trap Caster ( wandered across it at a Walmart that I don't frequent very often, touched it & had to have it ) is the only rod in the last 10 years that I've paid full asking price for without trying to dicker about price. The fishing tackle stores that I frequent, I never pay first asking price for a rod - just on general principles. I'm not a.....forgot how to use English about it, but if they don't want to deal that probably means that god doesn't want me to have that rod that day and it makes me feel better and I'm pretty certain that at the end of the day the tackle shops that I frequent make an acceptable profit off me year to year, or they wouldn't keep doing it. Reel wise - I'm kind of undecided - I used a Calcutta TEGT for the last several years, but last year I used an older Calais that I had put on the bench for several years, but I had it cleaned & tuned and it casts just as good as the TEGT. Don't really save much weight using the Calais, but I think it looks cooler. I generally throw half ounce lipless cranks and I think that I get good to very good distance with this set up. I wonder if the parabolic action is over-rated. So as an option to the Okuma set up in your video - I'd recommend the Falcon Trap Caster/Shimano Calais & 17 or 20 lb mono. I've got to say, in fairness, that Okuma rods & reels aren't very common in the tackle shops I frequent AND I haven't drank the Tatsu Kool-Aid yet, so I don't really know much about the rig you're using. You must like it or else you wouldn't make a a video featuring it. You could fix this by sending me your Okuma rig (I'm semi-certain that you've got several and wouldn't miss one very much) and I'll fish with it next season and then let you know what I think about it. (And I'll probably send it back to you, after the test season, because, right now, I ain't seeing how that Okuma rod could be any better than the Falcon Bucco Trap Caster )

I have 2 micro guide rods. The are the 6'8" and 7'2" Black Magic Carrot Stix. These could be the last two Carrot Stix in the country that haven't broke yet. I primarily use them for throwing soft plastics at objects or throwing jigs. I like them fine mid-spring through mid-fall. I think that if I fished with them in the early spring they might ice up, what with the guides being so small, so I don't even bring it then. Same for nasty weather in the late fall.

Before the 2021 season gets started in earnest, I'm going to have another higher end Shimano bait caster. I have a couple of Curado DC reels right now. I use them for spinner baits & chatter baits. I've decided I'm going to throw more swim jigs, smaller (3" to 5" ) soft plastic swim baits and such, so I want to get another reaction bait reel. Most likely another Curado DC, but the jury is still out.

I use spinning gear for jerk baits most of the time, because most of the time that I throw jerk baits it is kinda windy and spinning gear is more forgiving for me in the wind than bait casting gear is. I use a 6'3" Medium/ extra fast tip spinning rod. I don't think that brand matters all that much. I've got a 6'6" Lightning Rod that I'd probably use if I didn't like the 6'3" more. I like the shorter rod better because, I generally jerk straight down/ rather than kinda to the side and with the slightly shorter rod I'm not smacking the tip of the rod into the side of the boat - which I would be doing with a rod that was any longer. I don't think that reels matter all that much for jerk baits either. I use an old US Reel Supercaster 230 - the one that a long time ago Ray Scott promoted. Also, so did the Guido & Dion Hibdon. They explained to me that it was a great reel, at a tackle promotion at Rogers Lures in Liberty, MO. IMO it isn't a great reel, tolerances seem kind of loose and the handle is more or less loose, herky jerky in its feel. BUT, the extra wide spool does cast 20 lb braid great - I can throw half ounce Lucky Craft pointers farther with this reel on my chosen 6'3" rod than I can with any other spinning reel I've got. I think I've got $100 tied up in this rig and the rod cost more than the reel, mostly because I walked into a tackle shop in Grove, Oklahoma and I was determined to buy something and this was what I came away with.

The great thing about terminal tackle is that it gives you something to organize and re-think during the winter. Organize all you want. Any system you think of will work - kinda - for a while. There terminal tackle specific boxes will work - kinda - for a while. By April, if you fish regularly, your terminal tackle system will be in more or less disarray. That's life & fishing for me. The tackle specific box in the post directly above me - that does have possibilities. Maybe not so much for day to day fishing, but for tournament day as a co-angler - when you need a modest amount of specific stuff - that is something to think about. Nightmare scenario would be - you're sitting in the co- angler seat digging through your box for something - angler is fishing - not paying attention to you - random wake catches the rear quarter of the boat and all of a sudden you've spilled ALL of your terminal tackle and you didn't spill it in your boat. Did you remember to bring a magnet to get all those hooks out of the carpet? Oh darn, I've just dropped a hundred bucks or more of tungsten, now scattered all around the deck. I wouldn't trust those foam rubber slots to hold if something stupid or unexpected happens. Like the concept though.

I don't have a Conquest, I do have several Calcuttas - a few of the TEGT 10 ball bearing models. The thing you need to know about these reels is that if you take care of them, 20 or 30 years from now you might need to buy another one. These reels are tanks and will last forever with reasonable maintenance. Mine haven't been anywhere near salt water and most likely never will. My only issue with them is that they are a little heavier than many of Shimano's low profile reels.

I'm still on "wait & see" mode when it comes to Berkley hard baits. I remember back in the day when they came out with the Frenzy series of hard baits. As I recall there was a medium diver, deep diver, jerk bait and a lipless crank. Both divers and the jerk bait were junk, IMO. Molded plastic - not always molded perfectly - difficult to tune - generic paint jobs. They didn't have a square bill - the medium diver & deep diver had rounded bills. If the slightly offset molds would have hunted & fished like pre-Rapala wiggle warts, might have been a different story, but they didn't. They were just hard to tune. I think that the pro who hawked these baits in the magazines the most, his career kinda tanked for a few years after he promoted these baits. Serves him right - they weren't that good a bait, IMO. Now, there Frenzy Lipless crank - that bait is gold IMO. I have 4 or 5 left. My first and generally only choice when I decide to throw lipless cranks. So, that's 1 out of 4, I'm going to wait before I drink the Kool aid on this new generation of Berkley hard baits. The old Frenzy baits did have a pretty unique packaging approach that if I was a hard bait manufacturing company I might want to imitate ( individual hard plastic rectangular boxes with a plastic plug on top. Besides I'm getting ready to drink the Kool-aid on a set of the Strike King 10 XD hard baits. 6 or 8 of those and a box to keep them in and all of a sudden I'm out $150 more or less. But I know a few brush piles in 15 to 20 feet of water that I don't think have ever seen a crank bait smacked into them, so who knows. That could be Ms Big Bass summer home.

To the original poster - ChrisD46. The Brewer Slider company is still in business. I strongly recommend you get a copy of his book - On Slider Fishing. Good read and will give you something to think about in your approach to fishing. Be mindful that he grew up fishing reservoirs and to a much lesser extent rivers & creeks, but his thoughts more or less apply everywhere. Basically slider fishing is a light line spinning technique. Back in the 70's & 80's a ML spinning rod with 4 or 6 or 8 lb line was the ticket. We got more options now. My spinning slider rig is an old Diawa Light & Tough ( the silver/white series ) 6'3" Medium/extra fast tip. I might throw 6 lb fluorocarbon or 10 to 20 lb braid/fluorocarbon leader - both work. When Team9nine mentioned the 3 basic retrieves - what works the best for me is "polishing the. rocks." Over the years I've accumulated a bunch of Brewer jig heads ( various models ) and anything 3/16 or less I'll go with the spinning gear. Over the years I've moved more to the spider slider head over the original slider head. From time to time I throw the quarter ounce spider slider head - the pro model with the slightly heavier hook. I use a Falcon Low Rider Finesse Jig Rod (6'10" MH - fast tip) paired with an older Chronarch 50 spooled with 10 lb Abrazx. This is basically the bait that I throw when I don't know what else to throw. Any 4 or 5 inch worm will work - you can even cut down a trick worm if you want to. My favorites are the BPS Stick-o with the paddle tail, the Mann's paddle tail worm cut down a little, (Both these baits are getting hard to find) the original slider worm in your favorite color will generally work. So there you go . Step A - go to the Brewer web site & order the book and a bunch of hooks and worms. If you're into crappie fishing, they sell as much crappie gear as they do bass gear these days. That is a place to start - then you'll start fishing other finesse worms when you start running low on the Brewer stuff, Zoom finesse worms work great. As mentioned earlier, my current favorite is a paddle tail worm worked slowly, polishing the rocks.

I've got a rig similar to what Tander is showing. It is a 50' dog leash with the plug knocker attatched. It is easy to keep handy and who knows how many lb test that dog leash is - in my case It has always been enough. In my case there was a learning curve to learning how to deploy it quickly without tangling in rigs and other stuff lying around the deck, but not so much that it is an issue.

I have over a hundred jerk baits, in many different colors. I collect them. In the jerk bait box that stays on the boat I have half a dozen Lucky Craft Pointers in the Table Rock Shad color.