I use a rotozip drywall bit in my Dremel to cut the epoxy and thread off, on the guide foot. Then the guide just pops off and you can peel the wrap off.
My application process doesn't alter the feel. I apply it like a wood stain. With the grip turning on the lathe, I put a little bit on a paper towel and wipe it across the grip. I then take a dry paper towel and go back over it removing whatever wasn't absorbed by the cork.
Here's a before/after pic showing what the TruOil does to composite cork.
No matter how many I build, I keep going back to the 5S69mlxf St Croix I built many moons ago, even though I gave it to my wife when I built a replacement on the newer 6-10 blank.
Cork Tennessee grip with slip rings for spinning and full cork with ECS seat for casting. I've tried those skeleton seats (Minima and SK2) and they're the most uncomfortable things I've ever held.
That is the easiest location to fix a break. Read that article and you should be able to accomplish it, as long as you have other broken rods to use as a sleeve.
My method for applying peel n stick decals is to apply a coat of finish where the decal is to be placed and let it cure, then apply the decal. Put a coat of finish over the decal.
The fresh, perfectly smooth coat of finish allows the decal to stick better than it will on the bare blank.
I wrap by hand on my power wrapper, never cared for wrapping under power. Imo, its best use is applying finish at high speed. Second is long underwraps
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