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I started with 20#, which was regrettable, then tried 30#, then 50# and 65#, and after that 40#. The one that performed the best? 50#, no doubt about it. 50# is the way to go, IMO, unless you fish some really nasty cover for possible DD fish. Then I would recommend #65 or heavier. If you're worried about line visibility, it's best to use a leader instead of stepping down the braid size. 40# is the minimum I would recommend, but I don't really see a significant advantage of using 40# over 50#. 30# is really too thin for a baitcaster. The line doesn't lay on the spool right and you lose casting distance IMO. You can feel some shifting when you push on the spool hard, down and side to side with your thumb, because the wraps are stacked on top instead of laying next to each other. Try putting 6# CXX or 20/6 braid on a casting reel and you'll what I'm talking about, there's big-time stacking and overlapping of the lines. It's not as severe with 30/8 lines, but it's still there. Also, if you have to tighten down the drag and break off a lure with 30#, the line will cut into the spool and fray the line on the spool, causing you to mysteriously cast off a lure plus 60' of line later that day or week or month.

I tape the mono to the spool with a 1/2" wide strip of electrical tape, spool it up about 60% with cheap 10lb mono, and use a Double Uni to connect mono to braid. It's not necessary to tape nylon lines to the spool, only braid, but I do it anyways.

Grass and sand will fray up your line a little. I found that out when I was learning how to cast in my back yard. A limp, soft mono like XL may need to be respooled after lots of practice casting, but you didn't really cast very much. Sounds to me like the line was strung though the metal base on one of the guide and not the ring.

I like these Owners and the Gamakatsus. I don't think there has much of a difference as far as hookup ratios. I use 2/0 on spinnerbaits and 3/0 on buzzbaits. http://www.performancetackle.com/freshwater-fishing/terminal-tackle/hooks/trailer-hooks/spinnerbait-trailer-hook/prodSPINNERHOOKTRAILERHOOK.html

Big Game. A better line overall.

When I'm looking for bigger fish, I often move to deeper water and upsize my presentation. That's at least what works for me.

Good post, Fishing Rhino. Dink Whisperer, have you looked into Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty? I made a repair the size of a dime under my wheelwell bunk. It's not as pretty as a professional repair, but you can't see it while the boat is on the trailer. The only time I ever see it is when I swim, and but it is cheap and effective option. Had the damage been more visible, I would have gone with the professionals. It comes in white, which you can mix with dye, and a dark gray. You can also fill and retap a screwhole with this stuff if it is stripped. http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html

I'd say quality over quantity, because the quality stuff lasts if you take care of it, and you can keep accumulating it and eventually have the quantity as well. I think you're right on track with the Cumara/Curado level combos, but not every combo needs to be of this quality, and rarely does it need to be any better IMO. There are certain techniques where you can skimp on equipment. If you want to stick with Shimano, for example, with a topwater/jerkbait or a buzzbait combo you can use a Citica instead of the Curado, and a used Crucial or Compre instead of the Cumara. I do this for certain technique where I feel sensitivity or reel quality isn't as important. It allows me to save a few bucks that will likely be put toward more tackle anyway, but I try to spend it where it counts, where it will benefit me the most because I don't always have a lot to spend on fishing.

They're a good lure. I've had my best luck with them for river smallies and trout.

What is the best way to polish scratches and restore the windshield of a Stratos? There are a few nasty scuffs in it from before I bought it. Will the windshield still be clear after compounding and glazing with a buffer? I use 3M Marine Compound and Finesse-It 2 Glaze. What if I lightly wetsanded some of the rough patches before the compound and glaze? How would it look then? Thanks.

I made a thread on another site a while back asking people if they had ever fashioned a rope ladder to hang on their boat's cleats, and if they were worried that doing so might rip the cleats from the boat. They said that I shouldn't worry, that the force of the boat thats tied to a dock on a windy day puts more force on the cleats than a 200 lb person would. One guy said he had dragged a 30 ft tree into his lake by one cleat. If the cleats are that strong, then I don't see why the rear tie-down eyes wouldn't be. I haven't tried it yet, so I can't personally vouch for it.

my mistake then. What is it made of?

Now thats a good one. Cats gotta eat, too. The river channel cats around here get bunch up and get really aggressive at times. They'll race each other to hit just about anything that gets near them, but I've never seen them hit a topwater. That would be fun.

Slow rolling a heavy spinnerbait or dock skipping.

IMO, the Premier is one of the best $100 MSRP rods out there. I've owned numerous of them in the past. They are a great first step toward the higher end rods. It's awfully hard to beat used rods in the BR and other site's flea markets when it come to getting the most bang for your buck. You might be able to find a used Avid or Crucial for a little over a hundred bucks if you're patient. People are always selling off their stuff at 50 to 70% retail because they want to upgrade or because it doesn't suit their technique specific preferences. On another site, at least this morning, there were a pair of barely used Loomis Mossyback 804s that were available for $110 apiece, shipped. They appear to be sold now, but that just goes to show that $110 can get a lot more rod than what the Compre offers, if you're patient and persistent.

Depending on the values of those seized boats, that might not be much more than a slap on the wrist.

Good article. Thanks for posting this. It's a great accomplishment, regardless of the circumstances. Although, I think it's ridiculous to discount the fact that they are from private ponds. C'mon...seriously. Those are virgin bass we're talking about. This link works: http://www.gon.com/article.php?id=2352&cid=153

WOW, I mean, WHY? I think that guy deserves to get calls after 11.

It's probably safe to say we nailed down the main ingredient. I wonder how different KVD really is from competitors or from straight silicone? Regardless, I will be picking some up to give it a shot after all the rave reviews. I've only used Ardent, so I can't really compare it to anything. It works OK. I believe it reduced a few would-be backlashes, or at least made them easier to remove.

False. The thinner diameter of light braid will increase diving depth enough that it will offset the float of the line. I'm talking 15-20# braid on spinning tackle. I couldn't comment on 50#+, which is what I use on casting tackle. I have a ML/F multi-purpose spinning outfit with braid that tosses light cranks once in a while. If you compensate for the lack of stretch with a lighter rod than normal, you will do just fine. This goes both ways, with stiffer fast action rods and stretchy line, too. That said, I would never use braid on a setup specifically for cranking. I prefer to use limp mono.

I follow them to a T, but it's easily when you rarely keep fish. I wish they would actually penalize people more harshly than they do to discourage people from trying to pull a fast one on the wardens. There's just too many places to fish here for the game warden to be on top of it all, so people get away with a lot. More along the line of what they do to deer hunters, but not quite as strict. If you poach deer in MN, hunt from your vehicle, shoot the wrong gender and try to harvest it illegally, take them out of season, or even on the wrong side of the road from where your designated zone is, they take your truck and everything in it and they get auctioned off for 10 cents on the dollar, often right back to the former owner, and then there's a 5 figure fine and possible jail time. Now, THATS a deterent.

Keep your receipt and do a little research. You'll be glad you did.

Sounds like a nice little opportunity, but that's not the only good thing this recession has done for fishermen. Have you seen the prices on repossessed boats?!?

Yeah, thats it. I really encourage people give these a try. They are terrific rods and I have never been so impressed with a rod for that price, and I'm not the type to get attached to a brand really, although it is sometimes difficult not to with fishing tackle you like. Worst case scenario, if it's not for you, you have to sell it in the flea market. Lightly used should net you $150+ plus buyer pays the shipping. For that matter, they all have similar resale values. I don't have extensive experience with the Cumara or Loomis SB models, but I have fished with the Cumara and handled the Loomis SB in stores and they are nice rods, especially the Cumara. From G. Loomis, I own Mossyback, IMX, and GLX rods, and also own the Dobyns Champion 734 and 766. I'd say the Dobyns Champion ranks in between the $260 IMX and $360 GLX sensitivity-wise, leaning slightly towards GLX. The balance and feel is where they really shine IMO. My guess is that the Champ weighs a hair more, maybe quarter or half ounce more than the super light Cumara, but the Champ's balance is so nice you won't feel it. The Champ actually feels better to me. They are all nice rods, and they cost about the same. I think you more than likely will be happy with all 3, I would be. But dollars for donuts, I think the Champ is a better rod and a better value than the Cumara or the Loomis SB. Let us know what you decide. keep an eye out for Tackle Warehouse sales. When they have the next one, I'll be getting the 736.

Have you looked into the Dobyns 734?