Gangley

Green Gizzard Shad.

sounds ridiculous, but I have good luck with a black buzzbait with a white twin tail trailer.

Green Sunfish. Remove it from the body of water and move on, preferably to the kitchen since they are decent table fare. They stay small and will never have any size to them but they have voracious appetites, have larger broods, and will outcompete other sunfish species for food. Of all the sunfish, they are the least desirable because of those traits (mainly because they stay small), and they will quickly overstock pools and ponds. You will never have a good population of large sunfish with those mixed in the gene pool. When looking at them in the water, they will have a white or yellow line that goes along the edges of their fins, much like what is shown in one of the above photos. They are a nuisance and should be removed if you are wanting to increase the size of your sunfish. They do however put up a great fish on ultralight gear and taste good on the table.

I dont let mine sit either. As soon as it hits the water I'm popping it. Often times they hit it on the first or second pop right after it hits the water.

I go through texas rigs regularly, atleast 1-2 per hour whether its from the boat or bank. I tend to lose crankbaits even faster, but I recently purchased a plug knocker so hopefully that cuts the cost down dramatically. Rarely do I lose a topwater plug, but it has happened.

Rapala DT series. They produce consistantly.

they now have tackle trays specifically designed for certain lures. Check plano's website, I just recently purchased one of their trays specifically for my deep divers as well.

They were the wacky rig before the Senko was. There were some pro's discussing the ring fry in an article a while back talking about how they used to wacky rig it and dead stick it before anybody ever knew what a senko was.

do you drill a holel through the bill for the line or tie it normally?

Most squarebills I see are shallow divers, 5 feet and below. I need a square bill or coffin bill that runs atleast 10-12 feet, can anybody reccomend one that deflects off of wood at that depth? I have the DT Thug which will get down to around 8 and it works well, but I would like something with a different wobble that gets a little deeper, thanks.

first package recieved....3/0 HD Worm (offset worm hook)

Just picked up the hotmaps premium....FANTASTIC compared to HB's regular mapping system. If you can afford it, do it. One of my local lakes (Conroe) is listed as an HD map and it is by far the most contour detailede map I have seen. The 1' contours have been very accurate so far and before I even get out on the lake I have new areas I want to try based solely on looking at the Navionics PC map on my computer at the office. The navionics maps are great, get them and use them.

nice fish, congrats

Turtle taste good too....just sayin' ;-)

I would throw a live bluegill on a hook

I am the lone fisherman. My boss tries to tell me how much he loves fishing and how good he is at it but I have seen him fish twice in the past 8 years and it wasn't impressive to say the least. Like most bosses, lot's of talking with most everybody else doing the work Being from Houston, I am very close to the gulf and most of the people that I know of who fish tend to hit the saltwater in their free time.

Fish dont miss shakey heads. It's not like a shakey head is fished so fast that bass cant catch them or miss them. If you "missed" a fish, odds are the fish didnt like your presentation or didnt like the lure and didn't commit to eating it completely. Change presentation and if that doesnt work change the lure. If neither work, move on.

sorry to hear that. hopefully ya'll get a chance to whack 'em soon.

Buzzbaits, poppers, and frogs. My favorite is a black buzzbait at night and a popper in the morning and evening. For a popper, I prefer the Yellow Magic or the Zel-pop. Both are outstanding.

The fish could care less wether your jigs and trailers came out of a strike king or netbait or berkley labeled packaging. They can't read and they dont know which costs more. As long as the color and action matches what they want, they could care less. You on the other hand have to deal with quality issues when they arise so the best thing to do is to purchase quality tackle that lasts. By purchasing Northstar jigs, you're on the right road.

I have used just about every rod I own from Light to Heavy. The rod really doesnt matter for me, I simply adjust my pitching motion accordingly. The most important component in skipping is a quality reel that can free spool but still be controlled easily with the thumb Granted heavy lures require stiffer rods to pitch/skip accordingly, but the fundamentals of skipping are the same regardless of your setup. There are three keys to skipping: Lure Speed Lure Approach Angle Lure Type (design) Lure speed can be increased or decreased based on wrist movement and reel setup. Approach angle is based on lure speed and pitching/casting technique. Lure type is what will affect skipability when lure speed and lure angle are constant. For instance, with all things being equal a flat bodied lure like a beaver will skip much better than bulbous bodied bait with a bill like a crankbait. Rod selection is really based on the weight of the lure you are planning to skip. When skipping heavier lures like 1/2 ounce jigs, you want to use a rod that is stiff enough to keep the rod from over flexing. If the rod is flexing too much, your rod will loose its balance and create a situation where lure trajectory becomes inconsistant during the unloading of the rod. With lighter lures like 3/16 or 1/8 oz jigs, a rod thats too stiff will give you the same end result as a rod thats too soft; the accuracy diminishes, mainly because its like trying to pitch/cast with a broom and the lure speed drops. In my opinion, the trick to learning how to skip a bait is to get a quality reel, a medium heavy rod of any length, and a heavier flat bodied bait (1/2 oz beaver) that you can pitch/cast with good speed. The heavier weight will give the lure increased momentum compared to a lighter bait, and the flatter body will aid in deflecting off of the waters surface. A good word of advice when trying to skip a lure while pitching is to slightly load the rod by pulling lightly on the lure before you pitch it to increase the speed of the lure without having to increase your wrist speed. Pitching in this manner will give you good lure speed and a low trajectory angle inherent with the pitching motion increasing the likelihood of a good skip.

Poppers, buzzbaits, frogs

I like Seagur Invisx, but only in their larger (15lb+) weight. I have a spool of their 10 lbs line but it broke on me so many times that is just sits on my work bench now. The 15 lbs plus though, its FANTASTIC and hasnt broken on me yet, and I use it for flipping and pitching around concrete colverts, rocks, etc. I may have gotten a bad spool of the 10 lbs, who knows, but I wont be purchasing it again for use as a light weight line.

I've had good look with the Booyah's(slightly modified). Clacker or not doesnt seem to matter right now. The only reason I am using them is because they were available when I went looking for a buzzbait. I will most likely try a cavitron soon, but not until i loose my current supply of these.

spinning combo I use sidearm. Baitcasting I use a fast pitching motion.