Bass Junkie

Alrighty, just wondering as I tend to encounter that A LOT with the titanium arms.

You throw Terminators?

Too late to hop on?

In my experience you can still get plenty of hook penetration with mono. The Sunline Super Natural mono has very low stretch compared to other mono lines I've used, and it has a very small diameter as well, some where around 12/14lb regular mono. Its a good all purpose line.

Go with an appropriately sized Mustad KVD Elite EWG treble, they are truly an outstanding treble, especially compared to the stock hooks on Traps.

It could have been smaller fish, or fish that really clamped down on the jig. Sometimes they just get off, I can't explain why. I personally throw any jig 3/8oz or heavier on 20lb. Sunline Super Natural mono and a 7'+ rod with plenty of backbone. When a fish hits it's a quick drop of the rod tip and reeling up of the slack, then I absolutely HAMMER the fish.

The Lucky Craft Screw Pointer seems to have significantly larger props, which would aid in more vibration. I'd also check out the Lucky Craft Blade Cross. Although not a Spybait per say, it has the same concept.

I only take a break when that white powdery stuff inhibits my fishing. This spring I was throwing a jerkbait with ice forming on my guides and line guide, and I plan to do the same this winter. Due to the odd weather we've had around here in the last couple years I've had some very interesting opportunities, such as fishing a pond on New Years.

Megabass USA Pony Gabot frog. Second would be the Spro Bronzeye 65.

I have pulled a 3lb. Largie out of the water three times on the hook set and finally landed him on the fourth. All together he ate the frog 7 times. Same fish, I watched him for most of it. No, it was not a spawner. This is, however, a major exception to the rule. Generally speaking fish won't come back if you hook them for any extended period of time. If they just knock a lure they very well may come back. Baitfish have spines in their dorsal fins, crawfish have claws. The prey ''bites back'', so it's not be highly unusual for a fish to come back to a lure. Just another example, I got on a spinnerbait bite just recently, and it seemed like literally EVERY fish hit the blades on the bait during the initial strike. I'd sweep set and have nothing, even though the bites were definite. I'd simply pump the rod and let the bait helicopter down, which drew a strike almost every time. Two distinct strikes on the same retrieve, one after the fish had already tried to eat spinning metal blades.

My thoughts as well... Finesse spools are designed to cast finesse lures on light line. Slining half ounce swim jigs will certainly test the line capacity of the spool. It is also not optimized for the heavier weight, so although you will have little start-up inertia the inertia will not remain nearly as long during the cast, which could even inhibit casting performance. If the spool is of the honeycomb variety the manufacturer may also recommend NOT using PE, or braided, lines. This can cause deformation of such a delicate spool.

I can personally guarantee that without the proper rod, you will miss 90% or more of your frog fish. Braid is almost as important. The no-stretch factor is essential.

Therein lies the difference. J Francho was referring to the traditional rig. You are speaking of a niche item

The closest you're going to come to such technology today is the Shimano DC platform.

Spybaits

Step 1: Get your hands on a 7' MH rod, minimum. Step 2: Add the reel of your choice to said rod, with the drag LOCKED DOWN. Step 3: Spool the reel with braided line. Step 4: Take your Bronzeye frog, fold the legs over the body towards the line tie, and trim flush with it. Step 5: Throw it, catch fish. Notes: No matter how good you get, a frog will not glide side to side like a Spook. The design just simply doesn't allow for that kind of movement. In stead you will have the body of the frog snapping back and forth with the trailing legs swishing as well. When you walk the frog, work the bat from the wrist with snaps of the rod tip, maybe 5" at the most. Vary your retrieve. Some of the biggest hits come on a random, slower retrieve. When a fish crushed the frog reel down and HAMMER him.

I'm exactly the opposite of you guys No inline spinner I've used seems to match the Rooster Tail for me

All Gary Yamamoto Custom Baits hard baits feature Mustad Triple Grip hooks, which are vet similar to the Mustad KVD Elite Series trebles. Fantastic hooks, some of the best I've used, and the best I've used of any USDM hard bait I've gotten my hands on. However, the Tate Pencil itself was very underwhelming. I would not personally recommend it at all. I cannot speak as to the other models, although early reports seem to indicate the Chikara crank bait is a producer.

If I was to purchase a Core designated strictly for pitching, flipping, even froggin, I'd buy the Carbontex upgrade, install it dry, tighten the drag down and forget about it. Speaking hypothetically.

This. There are some phenomenal reels available in very good used condition for your budget number. I'd especially be looking at Daiwa, their Magforce breaking systems are very nice

C'mon guys, lighten up.... It's not even winter yet, get out and fish! We'll all be arguing about tackle for several months during that terrible situation called winter, let's just enjoy WHATEVER tackle we throw right now

I personally want the least amount of possible points of failure. To me, a swivel or snap is an avoidable point of failure. I have had them pop open on me before, I just had the cross lock style snap on a ZMan Chatterbair pop open on a 6lber recently. Plus, swivels and snaps collect weeds, can change the suspending or floating characteristics of a bait, and in my eyes reduce the realism of a presentation. Besides, I retie quite a bit, and every time I change a lure I want the confidence that I have a solid, strong, new knot. The added time is minimal at best, and is redeemed by the added confidence I get.

I keep it simple. I want enough of the trailer sticking out from the back of the skirt to provide a realistic profile, so the claws on a jig trailer or just the tail of the grub on a spinnerbait. If the grub has an exceptionally long tail when extended I trim the head so that the tip of the trailer when in the water does not extend past the end of the blade, simply to reduce the number of short strikes. After a while it becomes a habit, with experience playing a good part.

Just for the record, Lucky Craft uses VMC hooks on their products. I would be completely confident in the Arashi's stock hooks

Spro Bronzeye Frog Lucky Craft LC RC1.5 5" Watermelon/Pearl Senko Damiki MTB or Stanley Ribbit Frog, depending on the cover at hand.