Delaware Valley Tackle

Action is where the rod initially bends. Power is how easily/hard it bends.

Carbon fiber guides are light weight making a sensitive rod. Little if any feedback travels through a guide frame to the blank though.

The terms "noise " and "sound" are often used interchangeably but the former connotes a problem where as the latter is likely normal. Which one you're experiencing I can't say from a distance, but I can confirm that a level of sound from most modern reels is to be expected especially once they loosen up.

The purpose of the guides is to distribute stress along the length of the rod to harness its power. On a spinning rod they tame coils to aid casting. The only way guides aid sensitivity is by using the lightest ones possible in a given application.

No worries. You'll be fine.

A med power , fast action, soft tip, 6'6" +/- spinning mostly but casting too. Same rod works well for flukes and finesse jigs/drop shot.

They're a fine reel. Compare to a similarly equipped Revo.

Let me know if you need help. Should be pretty straight forward

There's no way for line conditioners to get onto the drag.

If you ask them they are. They make good blanks no doubt about that but they're not head and shoulders above other top end offerings. The z bone I would expect to be closer to an LTB than the helium. Best to lay your hands on one of each if possible. Dwight has hands on with 2 of the 3 and has a history of offering solid advice I'd say.

There might be an additive in the rubbing alcohol but denatured alcohol is used all the time in rod building and shouldn't hurt a thing on a graphite seat. The pic almost looks like a plastic seat with some kind of finish that's coming off. Hard to tell.

You're on the right track. You want to use a circle or octopus hook to avoid gut hooking. Use a swivel instead of a snap with a 3' leader to the hook to allow the bait to float freely.

"Shakes Head" is another term we use that may mean different things to different people. When I use it, I'm referring to a finesse worm on a stand up jig head. Typically a 7' ML xf spinning rod , 2500 reel light braid maybe a leader if abrasion is a concern. likely a 3/16 jig and pin tail worm.

A star is born!

I get a lot of second hand reels shipped from the seller to me, then on to the new owner. The likelihood of a problem depends on who did the refurbishing and the seller. eBay and PayPal offer lots of protection for buyers.

Email me the model and as much detail as you can and I'll see if I can walk you through it.

Far be it from me to discourage buying reels and such but the AR on the original reel is an easy fix. If the original cost justifies spending a little send it in and I'll make it fishable.

More likely no backing. All you really need is enough to cover the spool with a layer or two. But why spool on yards of expensive braid that will never see the light of day?

The t wing reels have more moving parts attached to the clutch and tend to require a very positive crank of the handle to engage. I doubt the whole rack full of reels is defective. I'd have to see it to diagnose with any certainty.

Sounds like the clutch is gummed up and not lifting the pinion high enough. Hard to say without seeing it.

The way coil loops come off a reel I doubt whstvyou see would affect performance. In principal, it's a qc miss and should and likely will be made right. Your call.

Yes. That should work.

1/8-1/4 turn after making contact should hold it. No need to bear down on it.

What's rod length have to do with it? The reduction train (first 3-4 guides) are critical on a spinning rod. The larger diameter guide is to get height actually but we're getting into rodgeek territory.

The whole idea of the larger spool is to handle 6# etc Fluoro. Non issue with braid.