Delaware Valley Tackle

The flood of posts regarding "Geary" reels makes me wonder if expectations are realistic. You never heard this about a Curado D because they were solid but heavy by today's standards. Current small, light weight reels will never feel like the past OGs.

In all fairness if good rod handling practices were followed to the letter they'd probably be fine. The only incident I have first hand knowledge of was a tx partner that high sticked his rod trying to get a snag free. But as usual it was blamed on a crappy rod. Deserved or not their rep is ruined so I stand by my original comment.

Look at the lure weight ratings rather than the power designation.

What make is the current reel? Deep cleaning fixes most AR issues as well as breathing life into the rest of the reel. Send it in at your convenience and I'll take care of it.

Even IF all past issues were resolved it seems to me starting from scratch would be easier than overcoming such a bad reputation. Maybe the new owner will use the infrastructure to launch a new brand. Time will tell.

You're relying too heavily on the designations. MH etc varies between makes and models. The ABU rods lean toward the more stout side. Look more at the lure weight range and pick something that will load and cast well.

They are indeed a great company and product, but be warned, there was nothing wrong with the mojo. Any relatively high modulus rod will not tolerate having the tip bent over. Enjoy your new rod.

Such a break can be repaired with little to no perceptible change in performance but it's not a diy or novice project. Value wise, I would charge $30 for a job like that. Putting a tip on the remaining section is pointless imo.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but many if not the majority of rod and reel companies do just that.

The problem with grease in an exposed application is that is collects debris and contamination. It'll work but be diligent in maintenance and refrain from adding new on top of dirty. Heavy oil works best imo.

Shimano is the obvious answer. If the on hold is too long try ereplacement parts online.

The only application where gear ratio provides a real mechanical advantage is a 5:1 for deep cranking/high resistance baits. The rest is really personal preference

Your "ground breaking" reference is spot on. Each guide size has an appropriate application but like split grips and other innovations that start with custom builders, the manufacturers pile on and over sell, over promise and over promote them with little consideration to the original purpose.

The extra contact points is marketing bs. The most sensitive and responsive rod results from using the fewest, lightest guides possible. Rod power, application, line, connections, etc all should be taken into account. This is only possible to a degree in a production rod of course. All this is splitting hairs when it comes to on the water performance. It's fun to ponder and kick around but don't let it keep you up nights.

Look at Shimano's stradic and up. They call their metal body Hagane. Some of the lower models may use a worm gear too but I'd have to ck schematics

When used properly micro guides offer the benefit of reduced weight which is where the added sensitivity comes from. "Micro" covers a range of sizes. Whether or not this particular rod will pass your connections depends on the guides size, line and leader used.

Most of the terms we banter about don't have an actual definition. As a rod builder, when I say a blank has some tip, I mean the tip is soft in relation to the overall power. To say this is completely unrelated to action would be inaccurate but it's not a direct and measurable relationship. As for a spinnerbait rod, a Mh/F like you'd use for similar whited jigs etc is what I recommend.

Worm drive or oscillator?

They're easy to call direct. My guess is that the epoxy you see is just finish. Once that comes off, the tip top itself is most likely hot glued. You just need to be careful not to damage the blank getting the finish epoxy off. Gentle heat (no more than you can handle barehanded) and scraping.

I've got some ideas. Email me at mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com and I'll do a quote for you.

What you have there is normal for a modern light weight reel once they free up. No way you wore out a gear set already and that pinion bearing thing is just a stab in the dark. Been down this road a hundred times last few yrs. email me and give you a couple ideas to minimize the effect.

The first step should be to flush and lightly oil the stock bearings. If you'd like, email me with the make and model and what you'd like to accomplish and I'll make a recommendation.

Ya, it doesn't do any good to have the right length rod in the wrong power.

Call ABU direct.

In general, shorter for accuracy longer for distance.