Delaware Valley Tackle

Swing Impact is close to a Senko when it comes to getting bit.

I’ve built on both brands with great results. In both cases their suggested lure weight ranges are pretty accurate.

Seems like a Bubba Shot rig would do the same thing cheaper and with less hardware?

A competent rod builder can fix it with a sleeve. Probably a $30-40 repair with a new guide.

8’> will incur oversized charges. I don’t know a way around it.

Just having some fun with you. “Balance “ posts are one of the most common but always elisit responses.

Often overlooked? Are you trolling us? Lol

Drive for show, putt for dough.

I haven’t heard that stat before. So, for example it would take at least 3# of pressure for 10# mono to start to stretch? I do believe that line stretch is greatly misunderstood. It’s often talked about as if fishing line was elastic.

I did and the answer is No.

Forget the power rating altogether and look at the lure wt rating. Start there then see if your choice has the backbone for the cover.

Good cleaning and lubrication is always a good starting point.

you don’t pay until the work is done. If you know you need parts you can send them too or I can order them once the reel is inspected. Yes parts are extra. I service reels that retail for north of $600 and none have ever gone missing. Lol

It won’t

For starters spinning a handle or a spool gives no indication as to the quality of a reel. It’s paramount to kicking the tires on a car. Doesn’t mean a thing yet we all do it. As for “smoothness “ it’s largely a function of mass. None of the super light reels will feel like a counterpart with some heft all else being equal. I like the Ci4+ but ymmv

I can’t tell from the pic. In the meantime try a drop of heavy oil put between the grip and handle so it can seep down in.

Ya right. Even then just the heel of your hand is on the grip. Not to say it’s completely irrelevant just not a high priority.

I can see not paying for name or hype but not scrimping on line after all that’s invested in rods, reels, boats and time.

To me grips are more aesthetic than functional. I’m either palming the reel or holding the seat and stem with very little contact with the grip.

Sorry but I have to disagree with this advice. As JF said, use the rod to move the fish and keep pressure on. Reel to keep slack out of the line.

Max drag is kinda like bearing count in that it’s just something for reel mfg to talk about. Has no practical application in actual fishing or overall quality.

I find myself leaning more toward ML power spinning rods. 2500 size reel is plenty, 1000 would actually work. Pflueger is probably still best bang for the buck spinning reels but the competition is closing in.

I float fish for steelhead with a 13’ rod held tip up all day long. The “balance” point is probably 2’ in front of the reel. Lol.

Good rule of thumb when it comes to heat and rod blanks, don’t apply more than you can handle bare handed. Granted it may require a touch extra on the hot melt glue but Touch is the baseline I use.

1/8-1/4 ball head jig