Delaware Valley Tackle

That’s right. Solid anything is the wrong material for a fix.

I have a set of T5-T10. I want to say the 8 and 10 but The whole set was inexpensive.

The line won’t contact that spot so you’re fine from a performance standpoint. If it bothers you cosmetically the correct fix is replacement.

I have a set. I’ll look at them and see if I remember which one.

Daiwa uses a few different brake systems. They vary between models. You can’t lump them all together

Core 51 or 101

I’ll agree this looks more like a spooling issue than equipment.

My personal practice is that I’ll pay 60% of msrp for a second hand item if it’s in like new condition. Some popular items may command higher. The E reels have a loyal following.

I doubt the worm gear is worn out already. The line guide pawl cap may be loose or you may have a backing to main line knot causing a hump. Barring any of these, I’d look for something in the retrieve, rod angle, finger pressure etc.

A deep cleaning should be your first step. Including bearing flush and light oil.

Both methods are perfectly safe.

Magic Eraser or simple green and a soft brush

Warm the epoxy with a hair dryer and carefully slice the thread along the foot. Pulling the tag end will peel off most of the epoxy. Gentle heat and scraping with the edge of an old credit card will clean up any residue.

There’s a spring loaded washer with teeth under the handle. Tighten the drag all the way, pull the washer away from the handle and turn the handle backwards. It’s threaded right onto the shaft. Quantum’s were like this for a while.

If that model has centrifugal brakes oil the drum.

The PQ is a well built reel. I don’t think you’re doing it any harm. Tackle are tools to me: meant to be used, deserve to be cared for.

Unfortunately Pinnacle is no-more. When they were operating I think they produced specific models for big box stores. This may be one if those. They’re all pretty basic and straight forward. I’d just play with it and see what it’ll do.

Try a different rod. Sometimes you’ll get that labored cranking if the rod is too light in power.

I agree completely. All the top end blanks are good nowadays.

You can’t. GLoomis hasn’t sold blanks in years. NFC makes good ones if you can get it. There service is beyond horrible.

It’s impossible to say without seeing it. Possibly over oiled spool bearings and grease where it doesn’t belong on the drag.

Seems to me a heavier spool has more inertia and will spin longer (cast further) once it gets started.

Drags job is to protect the line, rod and reel from shock and overload. The level of drag to accomplish the task depends on the characteristics of the components. Also, 7# fish does not apply 7# of drag pressure as an example. Point is, don’t over think this. Any quality reel with a quality drag will get the job done. What reel models fit that definition are open to interpretation.

When you say getting to the plastic are you talking about where the cork meets the seat?

Admittedly I didn’t read the whole post, but did you use backing under the braid so it doesn’t slip? Beyond that 7# of drag is more than sufficient for bass fishing and is not easily peeled off by hand.