Delaware Valley Tackle

If the worm has visible wear definitely change it. The level wind on those take a beating since they don’t disengage and spin fast when casting. Keeping them clean and oiled is key. Do that and you shouldn’t eat up pawls.

I hear ya. The garden is the first place they’ll look.

Having fished a lot from shore, canoe, bass raider etc I’m used to using short sweeps rather than straight down jerks which makes rod length less of an issue. Also having the extra length is an advantage for distance casting.

Keep in mind the methods above are for standard seats. Window seats like the ACS with blank contact windows are fitted directly to the blank which definitely requires at least partial stripping of guides. Any route you take is labor intensive and can easily exceed the value of the rod. I usually only do this on high end blanks that are hard to replicate or rods with sentimental value.

Me either. By “normal guy “ I meant they don’t possess mystical powers supernatural ability or all knowing insight. I listen to what they have to say and weigh it against my own experience. Don’t blindly follow anyone

Sanding didn’t cause that. A contaminant repelled the water based polymer that is U40. I’d lightly sand the whole thing then reapply. Make sure your hands and work area are clean as well as your brush.

Simply contact the manufacturer.

All lines come off the spool more or less at the spool diameter. Poor guide trains are what cause ballooning, friction and distance loss. The suppleness of braid actually makes it the easiest to manage.

Because they’re just normal guys like the rest of us except with cool jobs. They’re under pressure to build and maintain an audience so they sometimes fall into the trap of rehashing debunked myths or just talking nonsense to have something to say.

You’re confusing action and power. A moderate rod will not necessarily be softer, it just initially bends deeper into the length. Consider this when comparing.

Did you email me regarding this? I replied but never heard back. I’ll be glad to work with you.

I use Hard as Nails all the time for minor repairs. It’ll be fine. Another coat of epoxy over that may look worse than it does now. Just seal it up as Mick suggests.

IPT is measured on a full spool depending on design an empty spool could be 1/2 or less.

Sad ?. I wear mine 100% of the time on the water.

Was this a warranty issue or a replacement program? Big difference.

Did you account for any time zone difference? I always get right through and the staff is helpful.

Most every brand has offerings across a range of prices. You’ll get better opinions by posting a budget

I always thought the Hobie was waaay cool but I’d find it hard to drop that much $ without a motor.

The devils in the details ain’t it? All this stuff looks simple until you get into it.

The baits don’t torn up as quickly as spearing them as well.

It depends on the reel. At a minimum you need to remove any lateral play. Beyond that feel free to experiment.

There’s nothing wrong or shameful about using the cast control. You don’t need to be weaned any more than you would from the rear brake on a motorcycle. It’s part of the system.

Lots of models use brass spacers. There should be a cross reference if the old part number is no good.

I think it was a fluke. I wouldn’t worry about other rods. You can inject epoxy into the cracks and clamp them with heavy rubber bands. Clean up with denatured alcohol

Those are a wear item. Over tightening can shorten their life but won’t hurt anything else. When they get dimpled flip them over. Replace as necessary. Rest easy.