Delaware Valley Tackle

“Plastic” isn’t the dirty word it’s made out to be, lots of technological advances in the field. Just an observation. One could make the argument I suppose that it might be easier on the pawl than an inexpensive metal alloy. Time will tell as it always does.

I’ve recently serviced some SLX reels and the level wind worm gears looks and feels like a hard plastic material. Surprised me on an otherwise decent looking reel at $100. May not be an issue but made me pause.

Surprised no one has mentioned the plastic worm gear on the SLX. It may or may not be a longevity issue. Has no place on a $100 reel imo.

Did I fall asleep and wake up in February?

Whoever is helping you at the PO doesn’t know what they’re doing. Priority Mail over size doesn’t kick in until after 8’ on a 3” tube.

What’s loose, the grip or seat? If grip, what material is it? You’ll want to use a liquid adhesive epoxy and a syringe. Drill two small holes into the void area (one to inject and one to allow air to escape) being careful not to drill into the blank.

If you have a trip or something I’ll wedge you in. I just want to go into the new year with a clean slate and be sure to live up to expectations. Thank you all for your support!!!

This is where a slip float comes in.

Email me and I’ll try to help. It’s easier to do than to explain.

Not right off the top of my head. Mostly familiar with bare blanks. I’ve handled some Steez and old all star rods that fit the description if not the price.

Soft tip but fast action. Not always easy to find but do exist.

The difference in feel is due to weight. The light weight reels tend to transmit any vibration in the reel. There’s nothing wrong with it, just a trait you may not care for. The Bantam is smooth partly because it’s a heavy, rigid reel comparatively. Similar to the D series Curado etc. Gear material is just another contributing factor with the alloy gears being lighter but perfectly durable.

Clean them like any other bearing. Run them dry for best performance or oil lightly to quiet them.

Re spooling is relatively cheap insurance but in the meantime pull off several yards of line and reel it back in keeping tension on it and make of the line lay. You’ll get an idea of what it should look like. While the line is out, you can put a wrap of electrical tape on the spool. This is a trick to keep the inevitable birds nest from going too deep while you’re learning.

Those brake dials are a fairly common repair. One of the teeth on the knob might be bad. I’d explore the warranty route first.

I’m suspending receipt of new reel service orders between November 1 and December 31 at which time I’ll be expanding shop hrs from then on. As always, Current orders will be completed as quickly as possible. Thank you everyone for your patronage, patience and support. Contact me with any questions. Mike

Is that the XS model? I love that blank for lots of things. Makes a great jerkbait n top water rod with the fast but soft tip.

I hear that. Better snag them up before I see it!!

Same reason my all time favorite is the Core 50mg. Simple design, good materials and tight tolerances are where it’s at. 90% of the “innovations” we see are just marketing and attempts to stand out that don’t mean much on the water.

Way too many variables for any kind of meaningful equation. Go with your own gut, experience and preference.

This is a discussion best had with the builder. See what he suggests and offers as a fair trade. If you’re unsure or don’t trust the claimed value maybe it’s not the right deal.

I prefer a subtle action on jerkbaits so I don’t throw a lot of slack into the line. I don’t find it critical honestly.

A 6” senko is not light by any means. Any MH or some H rods will cast them no problem.

Daiwa makes well performing reels but little if any of the credit is due to the t wing. The sv spools and mag force ( especially the z) brakes are their best features.

Hogwash, straight up.