Delaware Valley Tackle

What you’re doing is fine for interim diy care. The orientation of parts in the roller assembly is important. You may or may not be comfortable disassembling.

Both are right. Roll cast has two different meanings depending on context.

So little of my hand ever contacts the grip, material is mostly cosmetic. Cork had gone the way of dimensional lumber, cut from young trees and of mediocre quality at best.

Better but still can be stripped if you crank non it. That’s why I use pliers to push it flush then the Hedgehog to press it through.

Ya casting is like throwing a ball in that it’s about release point.

I actually use both: the pliers to push the pin flush and the hedgehog pin to push it out. Use the pliers to push it back in. I’ve stripped threads on the hedgehog on really tight pins. Go easy. Note: the pin goes out and in the same direction. One side of the pin slightly thinner than the other. Pretty sure I’ve had reels sent to me in a bag after using this.

Don’t. You’ll almost surely damage the spool. What did you buy for bearings and why did you decide to replace them? If this is a one and done deal you might want to have them installed. The tool will cost almost as much as the bearings but less than a spool. If want to return the bearing and buy one from me I’ll install it. The other thing to consider is did you flush the stock bearings before deciding to replace them?

If I ever use a leader is almost never due to visibility.

Nothing wrong with enjoying the fight of landing a fish as long as you use some sense and don’t exhaust them to the point of collapse. In fact I don’t care for seeing fish skated across the cover and swung into a boat to flop around on the carpet. I try to strike a balance between enjoying and respecting the resource.

1oz<jigs isn’t usually considered punching. A heavy power fast or mod fast action with appropriate lure weight range will work. Do some browsing with this in mind and if you see something that catches your eye check here for anyone with hands on.

You can also get parts on e-replacement parts. Some of the odd parts for E series are N/A but most are there.

Shimano started redoing the website and never completed it. Lots of schematics are missing.

A 5” is easily m-mh casting territory. 4” I throw on either and would be ok on ml with exposed hook.

Side plates are still available from shimano as far as I know. I expect the changes in frame size and addition of the x ship bearings exclude gear swaps from Current models someone at shimano might be willing to confirm. There was nothing wrong with the gears they came with though. Carbontex drags, super tuned and freshening spool bearings if needed and they run with anything made currently.

A small area can be coated with finish epoxy. Urethane is water clear, thin and durable. I wouldn’t be surprised if the fibers are already compromised but if you got them for cheap not much to lose.

Drop shot, Ned rig, hair jigs, small tubes, in-line spinners... basically anything finesse spinning.

Those are three different rods for me personally. I like a fast action soft tip for jerkbaits so I’d look for that as it’s the least compromise for the other two applications.

Are you asking for rod reel suggestions or for supporting arguments on the advantages of spinning tackle in certain applications?

I don’t see a small company having any advantage overhead wise. They have the same expense needs just proportionally less. A lot if not most innovation comes from small companies or even individuals in many industries. Companies of all sizes put out great products and some not so much. I judge each on its own merits.

You have to check IPT ( inches per turn) to see how much difference there is.

66 yards is two long casts worth and a workable amount that maximizes the filler spool. Works best if you run leader for re-tying. For straight braid you might want more.

I like a short 6’ for sniper casting to targets and a 7’> for long fan casting to cover water. I do the latter much so just use one of my jig rods.

The spool just sits on there it won’t hurt anything. As long as it now lays line correctly you’re good. If you want to exchange it just for peace of mind no harm.

Are they like the newer Daiwa’s where the instruction is to just remove side to side movement?

Look up an arbor knot. Super simple