Delaware Valley Tackle

Give your Buddy my number.

Oh ya for sure. I’m a custom rod builder myself. I read that you were talking about reel internals over and above what average anglers have access to.

If you never hear about it what makes you think it’s happening? They might get a prototype to try before launch but that’s probably as radical as it gets.

Look inside the spool and you should see a little spring loaded clicker. It contacts the click gear on the main shaft. Either the clicker has partly broken off or the spring is bent, broken or misassembled.

IF that chart can be believed red stands out at depth except it looks black. Interesting but I still fall back on my own experience and anecdotal evidence.

He could be bedded or protecting fry, just running the bluegill off as opposed to feeding.

He won because he found fish and established a pattern. It’s impossible to tell whether he would have won or not having changed any or all of his tackle. We’ll never know.

I guess all my spinner baits and ARigs are going in the trash too until then.

Depending on the maker, probably yes. That’s why I added later that my personal preference is for graphite is party for the lighter weight. My point was just that material by itself doesn’t make the blank. Fiberglass is great vigor making softer blanks if that’s what you want, but they could in theory be made stiff and powerful.

The technology has changed too much over that period and until now to say whatever they did is better than what’s available today. There’s more to a blank than material too. A glass rod of sufficient power and action to work the way you want will work as well as a graphite with similar properties. The spinner baits I throw use a heavy hook so I like a fast action to drive it home without a he-man swing for the fences set. Prefer graphite for weight reduction.

The power of the rod blank determines how much weight or pressure is needed deflect/load the blank. The action is only where along the length the blank bends when the load is applied. You can have a very stiff moderate fast action like you’d find on a flipping stick, you can get a soft tip with a fast action such as that found on some labeled as popping rods and everything in between. All else being equal, if you take two blanks of identical Power, and apply a given amount of weight Deflecting the rods to the same level, one will bend in a more shallow angle which doesn’t make it softer, only slower action.

Who’s making that recommendation? You’d have to ask them. I don’t agree with any of those assertions. A slower action doesn’t equate to a softer tip or better loading.

They’re a PIA. Just keep playing with it.

A leader wouldn’t stretch enough to make any difference in that regard. Only reason I could see for a leader would be a little stiffness to avoid fouling.

I never pay retail and usually at least a model behind current. It boils down to your personal priorities and budget. The new model has some features as described but the k is no slouch.

They’re a crisp, fast rod. The MHx mb blanks are nice and more affordable for a first stab at things. I never put a foregrip on a bass rod but that’s your call. Check a rod you like the grip length of by measuring from butt to middle of seat and tell mud hole to size the seat to fit the same spot.

A well tied Albright joining 50# PP and 15# mono will pass a 4.5 Fuji Alconite. What most consider a “micro” guide.

The frame shape looks like it may be a Daiwa platform. Browse through their reels and look for one with similar features. If you want to do a deep dive compare schematics.

Yup. Lol

Neither the AR or pinion support bearing have any affect on casting. Casting noise should be limited to brakes, bearings, spool rim or spool shaft. Eliminate one at a time until you find the culprit.

The drag is loosened to the point that it’s slipping as intended. As long as the reel operates correctly with drag set for fishing I wouldn’t worry about it.

The fix for that is to replace the guide. Little chance any attempt to reattach the ring will last at all.

This is funny as I had this conversation with someone just an hour before I saw the post. He talked me into trying Assassin 15# for a mix of handling, feel and abrasion resistance.

If you’re a typical casual user that buys a reel and uses it with little or no care until it stops working things like Shimano’s core protect or Daiwa mag seal might have significant value. Outside of that it’s more like, “nice, so what else ya got?”

Just because fluoro will sink on its own doesn’t mean it will drag down large moving bait. It might affect the attitude of a stationary jerkbait but that’s about it. Conversely, something slightly more than neutral buoyancy like braid isn’t going to lift a bait.