Delaware Valley Tackle

I can’t tell you how many “bag-o-parts” arrive here every year. Don’t feel bad you’re definitely not alone.

It’s not a problem unless it is to you personal preference wise. They just use a little shorter handle than some others. Plus a 7’4” is going to be a little heavier. Unless it’s ridiculously poorly designed “balance” as it’s often used is a non concern for me.

The acceptable terms are “budget friendly” and “financially prudent”. Lol

If saving money is the objective rod building is not for you. If you consider your time worth -0- when your learning curve flattens out and you invest in high end components, you can end up with a rod better than off the shelf at a higher price point.

A man after my own heart!

I appreciate you thinking of me, but I don’t stock oem parts. ABU direct would be my first try.

The more supple the line, the less spool diameter will make a difference. Matching the lure to line weight and rod power is more important. The real potential game changer is the rods guide train. If standard height guides are used, the reel with the smaller frame may well cast better.

A reel is not a lubricant bath application. Grease will only fling off or build up if over applied. 00 grease might be ok on sliding parts (clutch etc)

There are no real problem areas on those. Maybe a worm and pawl for the level wind if anything. Most issues I see result from mishandling, neglect, or failed attempts at DIY service.

Reel sizes are arbitrary designations, you can’t compare them in this way. Spool diameter in part determines IPT and the width and line diameter determines how much line out decreases spool diameter thus IPT.

Call them and check the lure weight rating. Website shows 1/4-3/4 typical of their M or MH. I’ve built on both generations. If I remember, I think the x is more crisp, not necessarily more powerful.

Service, yes. Fishing, no. They’re well built, some added features but no game changer imo. One advantage to buying new is parts availability down the road. Some E parts are getting scarce.

99.99% of the time it’s something simple like that.

What that’s doing is wetting and temporarily lubricating what should be cleaned and properly oiled. Purposely dunking a reel is a horrible idea.

Deep cleaning is a complete frame off tear down. The slide washers are thin plastic spacers on the frame each side of the thumb bar. The clutch lifts the yoke and pinion to disengage the spool.

The noise you’re hearing is the spool pin slipping on the end of the pinion gear. I can’t tell you why without seeing it. I d start with a Deep Cleaning to see if the clutch frees up. Look at the slide washers on the sides of the thumb bar. They wear and bind the thum bar sometimes. The drive gears themselves have nothing to do with it.

I’m also a fan of the E series. You’re not at any disadvantage using them by any means. I also have a Revo Winch that has served well. Really just depends on where you’re at personally. Lots of good new stuff to experiment with, or stick with tried and true.

You’ll get all kinds of theories on this. Whatever the original intention, where we are at today it’s 100% personal preference. I’m right handed and prefer lefty casting reels but own and use both.

Something is obviously not seated correctly. If a drag washer came out, it goes back in. If you want them diagnosed or just reassembled without deep cleaning I’ll do a pro rated rate for you.

Make sure to designate 71 left hand when ordering parts. Some don’t matter but gears definitely do.

You can click one of my logos and link to my site to email or type it mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com. If you click on the name in this post you should see a message option for PM. Spin time of a light spool with no load isn’t a good indicator. And yes 3/10/4 is the spool bearing size.

What is a “noticeable amount”? On an inexpensive reel, my guess is that there is some normal movement from the loose fit of the AR sleeve around the shaft. This is normal to varying degrees in a lot of reels.

Yes just go real easy

Stopped before I started.

The easy fix is to slide a rubber chair leg cap over the end. Another option is to cut at the butt cap, cut off the length you want, epoxy a dowel or rod into the butt cap then into the end of the rod. Be sure to cut square so the pieces match up.