Delaware Valley Tackle

Do not touch the DC system. There’s something else not seated, aligned or oriented correctly. I’d tell you if I had any way of knowing what exactly is out of place. Because the spool tension is loose.

Click one of my logos on the forum they are links to my site where there is an email form or email directly at mlawson@delawarevalleytackle.com or call 973-459-2835.

It sounds like a light cleaning would keep you trion going. If you’re up to tackle it I’ll offer whatever help I can. Don’t throw the reel away. Worst case I’ll give you a little something as a parts reel.

Any issues keeping smallmouth pinned with the MLXF?

See the pinned thread by road warrior. Still holds true today

There’s no definitive, clear cut answer to your question. The answer changes when comparing across brands, currencies , generations etc

The revo winch and Daiwa crazy cranker fall into that category as deep cranking reels. You have bfs models in some lineups, the Daiwa long cast zillions for heavy baits come to mind. In the broader picture I think versatility is more of a concern for reels than technique specific niche reels.

We are 100% open , up and running full steam. If you seen or heard anything to cause doubt please let me know so I can address it. I can be reached through my website with several links throughout the forum www.delawarevalleytackle.com, phone at 973-459-2835, pm here and messenger on Facebook & Instagram. Pretty much anything beyond smoke signals. Lol Let me know how I can help.

A 4000 size reel is overkill for bass fishing unless you dislike casting gear and need something for heavier (10-12#) mono/fluoro.

There are two very close. One is a casting rod on an original Rodgeeks c473 MHXS. The soft tip and good backbone are a unique and versatile mix. My favorite was not on a high end blank but fished great. It was an MHx 6’9” MLxf DS blank with a Tennessee handle on carbon fiber tube. It had my Minima guides and an Alconite tip top. The experiment of the spinning rod was to build a high performance rod on a budget. Both have since been sold to customers.

High performance and high durability rarely if ever go together in rod blanks. Point blank rods are on my short list to try.

If you’re using heavy 10#> mono/fluoro then ya go with a 4000. Otherwise 2500 is perfect for bass applications. If you want to multi species bringing pike, carp, stripers etc into the equation that’s a whole other thread.

I just have trouble visualizing the length, other than handle length being an issue in a kayak but not otherwise.

Is it the longer rod or the longer handle they sometimes come with that’s a problem in a kayak?

Any well setup quality baitcast reel can allow casts 1/2> further than you want to set a hook on a frog. Concentrate on solid frame and good drag.

“Parabolic” is misused when discussing Rod actions. A parabolic curve is a horseshoe shape and can’t be more or less, it either is or isn’t. A moderate action will initially load a little further down the rod but that that doesn’t in itself mean the tip is soft. Often just the opposite, a fast tip will have a lower lure weight rating. A moderate or moderate fast action in a really heavy rod helps keep fish pinned when they surge at the boat.

This is somewhat common. Easy fix: take the handle and drag star off and set the AR clutch (C065) a little deeper into the side plate. This allows the spring washers to press on the top of the AR sleeve without binding. One more word of caution: pinnacle parts are virtually impossible to find anymore. Don’t lose or break anything.

I have to agree with AJ and I’ll add that a longer rod moves more line and should get better hooksets. If the frog body is stiff you can slightly bend the points up. Just something else to consider

A brand new Trion is $49.95. Pre owned I wouldn’t pay more than $30.-$35 even unused.

There’s a lot of good reels out there. At the $150-$200 price point you can hardly go wrong. Short answer to the OP is yes, the zillion and alphas are arguably a best value on sale or at JDM exchange rate

Richard, I can no doubt do what you’re asking, but it’s likely more economically viable to build from scratch. Email me to discuss. Mike

Sorry, yes, remove the old wrap and clean the tip and guide for good adhesion and use a Hi temp hot glue also referred to as tip top cement. The wrap is really just decorative but the little bit of finish that overlaps onto the guide adds a small amount of insurance or extra adhesion. Unless you have the supplies, if you want you can hand wrap some thread of whatever color and seal it with clear nail polish.

Flipping switches are useless imo and only serve to complicate service. YMMV

They used epoxy and used too much. That creates air pressure that pushes the tip off. And it set up that way and went unnoticed. You don’t have too replace the thread wrap if you don’t want to. I’d use the go temp hot glue if it were mine

I bought three sizes of Ci4 Stradic on clearance when they switched to the Vanford. The worm drive oscillation and self contained AR were primary selling points. After servicing several new Shimano’s with the new AR assembly I won’t buy another one until they change it. If you don’t service your own reels then it’s no concern. Of course I service them for customers but they’re unnecessarily difficult to work on so this is my own little protest.