Delaware Valley Tackle

The difference between a frog rod and flipping stick “should” be that the frog rod loads and casts better. Contrary to popular belief fast action doesn’t necessarily mean stiff tip. All said, I don’t have hands on with the specific rods you’re looking at. I have worked on Daiwa Steez rods that were heavy power with soft tips so they’re no stranger to the concept

Ya we’ve seen layers of blank material supplemented with the arbor. Forgot to mention that. Fortunately you didn’t have to go there. Just an unfortunate oversight/mistake during assembly. Looks like you’ll be ok.

Don’t remove the cork. Drill two 3/32 holes through the seat but not into the blank. Inject liquid adhesive epoxy into one hole until it oozes out the other.

Tsi321 on spool bearings, AR, 80-140 gear oil on frame bearings, sliding parts and level wind, marine grease on main gear, spring washers for drag tension, drag grease on drag washers.

I don’t understand the leader knot concern with the Daiwa. The large opening on the T wing should make it less of an issue if anything.

That’s a high load area of the blank. You could be asking for trouble fishing it as is. As for “most Tackle shops do rod n reel repair” that’s not my experience. Go to rod building sites and inquire. You’ll find someone local enough.

Not yo hi jack your thread, any tips for remote ramps without docks?

In general, longer for distance, shorter for accuracy. Longer rod moves more line for distant hook sets and reach with fixed line as in flipping. Shorter can be easier to handle when fishing vertically as in drop shot under the boat.

The most disturbing part of your story is the tackle shop clipping off tip tops! ?

^^^^ yup clear the slack and loops occasionally and you’ll be ok

It takes surprisingly little weight for the lever effect of a conventional guide setup to be visible in tests. A spiral build is the most efficient. That said, the improvement is slight as is nearly every choice: grip length, guide size, number of guides, ring and frame materials, spacing... no one is likely a game changer or deal breaker but it all adds up. if you’re doing custom and have the ability to maximize every aspect why not?

Any liquid epoxy adhesive. I keep CRB from mud hole in the shop. Doesn’t have to be rod building specific though.

There’s a void (empty space) between the cork and blank. Drill 3/32 into cork being careful not to go into the blank. Two holes is so air can escape allowing the adhesive to flow in.

My business interaction with Lews has been positive. I ordered an AR from them and got a call next day asking what went wrong. I told them the owner used it in salt water and it corroded. They said they had a more appropriate reel for that application and sent a brand new reel upgrade free.

That’s not shrinkage it’s over reamed and improperly installed. It can be fixed relatively easily by drilling two small holes into the void but not blank and injecting liquid adhesive epoxy. Wood filler in the holes when done.

My baseline is annual deep cleaning(full tear down). Depending on use and conditions bi/annual or semi annual may be appropriate. Interim service every 8 or so outings, again, depending on use. Keep level wind brushed clear and oil lightly, same with rollers, hinges, joints, spool rim and frame. Oil spool bearing at the same time and in between if noise or degraded casting exists.

1/4 oz isn’t going to hurt anything. The rod might feel a little mushy on retrieve or working the lure/bait. Power for landing fish and casting weight are not directly related, but there is obviously some relativity. Just use some judgment and common sense and I doubt anything catastrophic will happen.

Any one with binding reel issues feel free to contact me directly and I’ll help you out. Probably will post the answer one day. ?

I use backing on nearly every reel anyway so the deep spool isn’t really a factor.

Schematic won’t help you here unless you lost a part. I can’t see the shape of the bail piece from the one angle of the pic. Opening the bail should compress the spring. You’ll have to stare at it and try to picture what’s going on. Bails are arguably the biggest PIA in reel service.

Line touching the blank won’t really hurt anything, but 9 is where I usually end up on a 7-7’6” rod. Don’t worry if static testing placement looks odd compared to progressive either.

Sorry to hear of your injury but glad you’re ok. Great to have you back!

I’d venture to say this is the best online venue of any I’ve ever seen. I consider myself a member first and sponsor second, but can tell you Glenn is as good on the business side as he is administering the site. Class act all around. The library here gets overlooked, it too is a treasure trove of information.

Temper everything you read especially on the net. Seems to me even assertions with a grain of truth are routinely exaggerated. Casting is affected by the baits weight and profile, rod, reel, line, guide train, technique and I’m probably missing something but you get the idea. There’s no magic pill or cure all.

Email me what you need and I’ll give you a quote. Thanks guys. Glad to help.