Delaware Valley Tackle

Each brand has worthy models as well as some disappointing ones. Bang for the buck wise Pflueger still has some bargains. Shimano AR is the best, Daiwa’s air bail I like. Weights are easily found if that’s important.

Leader length and type depend on the reason for a leader at all.

Like a car that doesn’t crash? Reels don’t backlash, users do. Learn to use one correctly or stick to spinning Tackle. Don’t mean to sound harsh. You can do it but there’s no shortcut.

You should look at a rod build as a total package. The smallest, lightest guides that will pass connections and hold up in the application will preserve the maximum of the blanks inherent quality. There’s no one secret or silver bullet. Like anything else, there is the issue of bang for the buck and point of diminishing returns. When you’re ready, I’ll be happy to talk with you and work through the decision making process and hopefully do a build for you.

As a supplement to casting tackle, I lean more towards ML/F lately. As an everyday all purpose rod I’d step up to a Medium.

Yes I can do the service and drag upgrade. Send it at your convenience.

The schematic lists the parts but you’ll need to able to diagnose to figure out what needs repair, replacement or service.

If I remember the Fk has the felt washers. Cleaning and grease will help but I recommend Carbontex upgrade. An improvement that will last the life of the reel.

I never looked at arbor material as a structural component, just something to keep things concentric with the epoxy in the gaps being the true bond.

Does the pin come out or does the clicker press onto it? Is there a small e clip perhaps. That’s one I haven’t needed to do yet. A clearer close up might help me help you. Some of the schematics don’t show the clicker as an available part separate from the spool. Maybe ordering bad pool and having a back up is worth considering. If you have tools and are up to the task maybe drilling the broken one out and replacing it with the screw in version could be experimented with.

Yes I’m a steelheader too. Center pin mostly so I get the drift aspect. I was referring to those make absurd claims regarding casting distance based on misleading videos.

Technological evolution, like price points can reach a point of diminishing returns. Lots of times equipment choice is more about the angler experience than actual effectiveness. Which is fine if realized.

Spiral wrap won’t have any negative affect on any application that I’ve seen.

Oh ya there are absolutely good reasons for baitcaster applications. I just don’t think modern bass reels are best used as a winch.

Your rod will move any fish way faster than any reel.

Tearing up your fishing license

I don’t know what to call that but it’s not a double uni or a blood knot

20# braid won’t be longest casting but not restrictive either. It’s thin braid that digs in not thicker. Make sure the line is threaded thru the guides correctly(not kidding it happens). Fill the spool as suggested.

Pure Fishing is unreachable due to COVID-19 at least in my experience. You’ll have to try a parts dealer

Everyone's swamped in large part to the manufacturer backlogs and back orders. Getting components and parts is a nightmare right now.

All a drag does is provide limited slip under pressure. Line can only fray from contact with a rough surface: a chipped guide ring, a dinged spool lip, retrieve through cover like wood, rock and worst of all zebra mussels.

If it’s braid likely dug in.

Glad to help

There are two philosophies when it comes to blank design: thin wall / large diameter and thick wall / small diameter. Neither is right or wrong just different ways to get the desired performance from a tubular blank. Don’t over think it.

Warm with a hair dryer not too hot to touch with bare hands. Cut threads along top of the keeper to not cut the blank. Rewarm and pull thread to unwrap. The thread will peel the remaining epoxy off with it. The condition of the underlying epoxy and decals will have to be assessed after. Chances are the spot will be visible and have some residue. If you want, sand smooth with 400-600 grit and re-coat with finish epoxy.