Delaware Valley Tackle

Blank tips are usually in 64ths of an inch I’d expect that blank to be a 5 or 5.5. The 1.7 might be millimeters. 8oz. Of epoxy is enough for a dozen rods or more. Size D thread looks like rope. Wrap with A. I wouldn’t invest in reamers until you’re sure you like it. Rat tail files will work especially for those grips. Turning a blank by hand to set epoxy is a pain but a great way to learn how epoxy behaves. I always recommend doing the first one at least that way. You can make a hand wrapper out of a couple shoe boxes with notches cut. Work into it gradually.

A dry brush and air. I use old tooth brushes.

Along with making sure it’s spooled correctly, no twists and just shy of the bevel on the spool lip.

That’s a unique idea. Nice

I’m right handed and use left hand reels 90% of the time

Try as in handle them or actually fishing? Tackle Warehouse has/had a trial program.

Rebuilds are labor intensive thus costly. Unless it’s an expensive high end blank or something so unique it can’t be matched, a ground up build makes more sense. If you sent the blank I could take measurements and shop for a match.

It won’t cast its best with the wrong guides best you’ll get is a rough idea

If there were an advantage it wouldn’t be 60 yr old technology. The models with level wind and idler bearings cast better, but even the older reels cast 1/2oz> fine, a little lighter if cleaned and lubricated properly. In a reel with a wide spool the synchronized level wind minimizes the angle of line coming off the spool into the guide but I’m not sure that offsets the having to drive the level wind when casting.

It’s not already? Oops

From the bank you probably can’t benefit much from deep running cranks or the 5:1 reels

When line shoots the friction on the blank or guides is inconsequential. The two piece experiment gives you an idea how it works. A true spiral is even better.

There are liquid and paste epoxy adhesives. Use a liquid.

Please don’t take offense as none is intended, but.... you just need to practice and become proficient. The President is a fine reel. Distance casting is hardest to master as you tend to muscle the cast too much. Try backing off a little and just be smooth. For raw casting distance a switch to spinning tackle may be the ticket.

The Z2020 reminds more of a Curado 300. The Conquest is on another level from my perspective, which admittedly lacks hands on with the Z.

My advice is to order the gears now and send them in first of the year. I don’t think any one of us is the “best” but I believe I have a proven track record and spend money in support of the forum as a sponsor. What you need is a straight forward job. Let me know if I can help.

Why would you expect no over run after touch down with a baitcaster and no thumb? Set it and forget it just means flexible not auto pilot. Required settings depend on your circumstances. Rod, line, baits, casting technique etc. Others settings might get you close but trial and error will tell you best.

Expect a quality build to cost as much as or a little more than a comparable over the counter rod plus extra for decorative wraps and custom turned grips. I get why people care hesitant to give a budget out of the gate, but if you trust your builder, providing a range saves them time providing an acceptable quote.

The ultimate number of guides and their placement is best determined by static load testing. You want just enough guides to provide a line path that closely matches the rods bend under load. I find as does Mick, that a fast action 7’ bass rod takes 9 plus the tip top. More is not necessarily better. Line slap is controlled by use of correct guide sizes and spacing. Where low framed or micro guides are used, line touching the blank under load is harmless as long as it does not drop below the blank.

That’s just a blemish in the epoxy finish. Structurally it won’t hurt anything especially right away. It may get moisture underneath some day but it’s not a given and not catastrophic if it does. If it were me, I’d take the discount, touch up the guide wrap with Sally Hansen Hard As Nails and fish it. If you want to jump through the hoops to replace it you’re within your rights. Your call. BTW no, stress cracks in epoxy are not sure to happen in all, most or very many quality rods.

This is probably true for 90% of us but only a few brave souls will admit it.

TSI is a very good product. I use it as part of my Super Tune service. It’s not a must have for casual diy maintenance though.

Try full strength Simple Green followed by a hot water rinse. Acetone soak for bearings.

“Reel” oil, grease, cleaner...are all just relabeled common products. I don’t use Ardent Reel Clean and I’m not suggesting it’s not good for it’s intended use just that you can likely get an equivalent less expensive. I wouldn’t use any degreaser as a last step prior to bearing installation. Degrease, dry, light oil, install.

There’s always room for improvement, but I’ve worked inside processing facilities for all three(ups/FedEx/usps/) and they all use similar material handling process and equipment. Packages get handled a lot during the process. The long tubes can fall victim to turns in the conveyor track. Crushing damage like the pic likely happened during loading of a tractor trailer transport. If you saw the process in action you’d be surprised anything ever gets anywhere let alone in one piece. The shear volume is overwhelming. I’m not suggesting accepting damaged goods just adding some perspective.