Delaware Valley Tackle

The DC so d is loved yet the ceramic bearings sound is despised. Personally I don’t care either way as long as I can get my bait where I want it.

They’re just another contracted import reel. Nothing special or horrible either way. They tend to be priced higher than comparable competitors offerings.

Our family owned a lube oil distributorship for years. Something I can tell you with certainty is that there is no magic in any of it, especially a comparatively mild application like a reel without high speeds, pressure and heat.

Both power and action should be considered in choosing a blank for a given application. If you’re working with a builder, it’s reasonable to expect them to guide you through picking components. Feel free to reach out if you’d like to discuss a build.

For raw distance, spinning tackle alone is a step in the right direction. 8-10# braid on a full spool and rod that loads properly. I like fast action, soft tip rods for jerkbait and top water.

I insert the word “initially” bends as the more force applied , the deeper the bend. I feel this helps keep the separation of power and action as you asserted.

At lest you got the joke.

Why would a hockey player want a custom bat?

This is unnecessary. Alloy gears are actually harder than brass. They only become a problem if misused by over loading them as they won’t bend but will eventually shear teeth off. The perceived roughness is due to the light weight of the reel. A light weight reel transmits vibration more readily same as a light weight rod.

In the future weigh each component individually then before and after epoxy finish. The results are interesting.

Use a schematic and take pictures as you go. Have plenty of space to work and enough time to complete the job. Probably a couple hrs first time. I’m not familiar with those spray lubricants, but the shimano grease and bantam oil in containers are good.

With the readily available travel blanks on the market I can’t imagine using the old metal ferrules.

Thanks guys found some at scheels

I’m looking for SSR7 Shad Raps in Silver. If anyone has a line on some I’d appreciate it.

Happy New Year everyone. Thank you for your past and continuing support. I’m back up and running full time. Send your reels at your convenience or ask about making a reservation. thank you Mike

For the love of god, don’t hold rods by the tip like this. What you’re actually seeing is two rods with the same action in different powers. Power is a rods resistance to bends, action is WHERE it bends INITIALLY. And please don’t say “more parabolic”. An arch is either parabolic or it’s not. This word actually has no place when discussing rods or blanks.

It’s just a drip, if it’s bothering you , it could be scraped off with a popsicle stick or old credit card. Gentle warming with a hair drier should make it even easier.

Graphite isn’t brittle per se but I know what you’re referring to. The object of high modulus materials is to achieve sensitivity through a lower weight to stiffness ratio. The trade off is, they are less tolerant of high sticking and impact damage. Most of the blanks marketed as blend or composite use a mix of graphite materials and/or glass to achieve a desired action and power not necessarily durability as in resistance to rough handling. Moderate action rods aren’t usually built with the highest modulus materials so Whatever you pick will likely be a little “tougher” as an ancillary benefit. I wouldn’t stress too much over material outside of which one you like the feel of and will perform as intended.

Golden oak wood filler or cork dust n glue as filler. Sand very lightly 300-400 grit. Seal if desired.

I own and use both. I’m right handed and reserve my righty reels for chuck and wind presentations

The angle does look steep in the pics. Try casting it and see how it works. Hard to believe the impact bent the stem but didn’t damage anything else.

Not necessarily. Lots of people with deep pockets that aren’t as into the weeds on this stuff as we are.

I doubt the stem bent. The angle of the spool shaft is called upsweep. If the part can be obtained, repair should be about $40 all in (parts , labor, shipping)

Nothing bad about it, just tickles me to see how they try to hype old news. I get it, it’s a wildly competitive industry and you have to move product to stay in business. Remember 99% of the fishing public is uninitiated in the techno geek stuff we discuss here.

DC braking is not magic or a replacement for basic skill. That misconception is their only danger. The learning curve isn’t that long with proper setup and understanding of bait-casters.