Delaware Valley Tackle

IM has no industry standard. The destination is useless except for comparing rods from the same maker. As for high modulus rods in general, they not prone breakage, merely less tolerant of abuse and poor technique. Treat it with a reasonable amount of care and avoid high sticking(bending tip beyond 90*) and you’ll find them incredibly durable and powerful.

Dock skipping and casting into the wind with any bait you’d throw on a similarly powered casting rod.

You’re hung up on center of guide. The line is going to touch guide rings during casts no matter what. I wouldn’t push the stripper beyond 20” in this case unless it was intended for a large, high reel like am Ambassaduer 6500. There is a video for KH casting guides on anglers resource. If I remember it will suggest the same or similar as I have.

Put the RV 19-20” from face of reel and static test from there.

Yoke, yolk is yellow part of an egg. I m leaning toward assembly method rather than mechanical issue.

I agree one should have nothing to do with the other. Do you feel the drag doesn’t start up correctly or sticks when paying out line? Is it possible that the sound merely gives the perception of jerkiness?

The only application where ratio is mechanical advantage is 5:1 / 20 ipt +/- for deep cranks and high resistance baits. The faster are all personal preference. Faster reels are nice for taking up slack quickly when necessary,how fast is up to you.

90% come from the same place(s). Just order from a reputable supplier. If you know how many and what size I’ll give you a price if you want

Line IPT varies between reels with the same ratio with those having larger diameter rotors/nails taking up more line.

The first answer from MN fisher is all you need

The question of what “smooth” means in reference to reels is a constant concern to people like I that service them. The two main camps are super free and buttery for lack of a better term. The types and volume of lubricants can be used to fine tune for either, obviously within the capabilities of the reels design and construction. My default during service is a middle ground that results in a more connected, buttery feel than purely “free”. Lightweight, rigid reels transmit feel much like a high modulus rod often leading to a misinterpretation of “geariness”. Bottom line, smooth is whatever it means to you.

Bigger, stronger fish than bass have been caught on 6-8# mono. Not to say a change wouldn’t be beneficial, but consider what else might be at play. Cover, drag settings, line and rod guide condition, user error…

Quality wise they’re all good. I t comes down to features that appeal to you. Light weight: Tatula or Vanford, sturdy bail wire: Tatula, self contained sturdy AR: Stradic or Vanford. Then of course is price.

Annual deep cleaning and lubrication is a good starting point. You can adjust accordingly for level of use, conditions and interim care.

I don’t think there’s any danger of a catastrophic failure there but it is a blemish and probably within your rights to request a replacement. Personally, I’d squirt some wood glue into the crack and clamp it with a zip tie, then finish with golden oak wood filler sanded smooth.

Your idea will create shear points. You can get actual metal ferrules but I’m not sure you want to tackle that as your first venture into rod building.

Golden Oak wood filler is easiest and works well. Cork dust and glue definitely works but way more work

What’s to learn?

Try it and see.

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy New Year to everyone! Thank you all for another successful year at DVT be you owner, Admin, contributor or lurker!! Blessings to you and yours. Mike

Pinion support bearings help keep the gears in line making cranking smoother, minimize friction between the pinion and spool shaft, and in theory aid longevity. On paper it’s a definite upgrade. The need is less critical in a rigid frame with close tolerances. There are tons of old Curados and even Revos still in use without any support bearings for the pinion for example. I like to see them in newer reels to counter the small size, light weight, alloy gears and fine gear teeth.

This is arguably the most debated topic in rod comparison. There is no “correct” or “incorrect” rod feel. I say feel intentionally because it is physically impossible to make a rod see saw at a point that wouldn’t be a ridiculous handle length. The many variables that affect feel are another reason I try not to use the word “balance” in a context other than appropriate for the application when paired with a particular reel, line, bait and presentation. Bottom line: don’t overthink it.

The danger of alcohol lamps outweighs any benefit. I use a butane torch for bubbles if I must and loosening tip tops, and a heat gun for bigger jobs that require heat

The Bantam grease is a good all around grease for reels. I’d throw the hot sauce away. Regarding the AR, thoroughly clean it and oil with a swab of light oil.

One should be thicker and stiffer and should go on first.