Delaware Valley Tackle

Saving or making money are the worst reasons to get into rod building. At some point in the journey you may achieve one or both but you’re not likely to succeed or last if that’s your sole motivation. I have a few factory rods but they’re relegated to loaners for the most part

Ya the only thing that makes a saltwater reel is corrosion resistant materials and in some cases water intrusion prevention

I can’t speak with certainty on that specific rod, but I can tell you I use ML spinning rods in cover and with hooks that would make you shake your head. You should be fine if the hook is sharp.

Thank you for the compliments. I really strive to give value for my services. For the OP, value or “is it worth it” depends on your personal perspective. No, it’s not brain surgery but there are pit falls, and it takes time. Currently, I get $26.95 for a deep cleaning which is anywhere from an hr to 90min of work. I also now offer an Econo-clean service for lighter used reels and the budget minded for $18. I offer a reservation service to meet hard deadlines with quick turnaround, primarily for trips, tournaments etc but also for people in warmer climates that fish year round. I post tips here and take lots of calls with diy questions if someone needs help. There are lots of videos and pages online. Some are good, some not so much, and others just plain terrible. Hopefully, in the future I’ll have more formal DIY support offerings but there just enough hrs in the day right now. If you’re reading this and have questions or need help/advice let me know and do my best for you.

I think that’s a result of being under the same umbrella with multiple other brands.

They just aren’t built to super tight tolerances and the basic design lends itself to some sound once broken in. A few weeks in and you’ll be right in the same boat (no pun intended). None of this means in any way that’s it’s not a quality reel. You just have to keep your expectations within reason. The expectations and demands for eternally silent, butter smooth bass reels at mid range prices is largely unrealistic. Of course there are outliers, and I fully expect numerous responses with their own experience with a favorite brand / model.

Putting new gears in that is throwing away money imo.

I think the solution lies more with the stop than the reel. The little slip on stops I use are tiny and tapered. They’ll tick but don’t usually hang up. I would be bomb castin though. A little nail knot of braid around the line is slim and works too. Just add a small bead in front of the float. Baitcasters are popular with western river float fishers. Google some of that for more ideas.

Line counter or fill the spool then walk off the extra.

Low ratio reels shine with high resistance baits: deep cranks, big Colorado blade spinners, certain big swim baits etc

Not at all. Only saying to be sure that overall the spool is filled to just below the rim bevel. I run 67yds or 200’ (2 long casts) of mainline in most cases

I believe the golf adage of drive for show, putt for dough applies to fishing. Accuracy is more important than raw distance casting. I don’t have a reel that won’t allow me to cast as far as I’d care to set a hook. I’ve got quite an eclectic collection.

Don’t get sucked into vortex of longest casting reels. Reels don’t cast at all. The best ones just don’t hinder casting as much as others. There’s lots of variables that affect casting distance. It’s common for new features to be introduced in higher end models then trickle down.

Versatile in what way and to what degree? Wide lure weight range? Low to mid, mid to high? Action beneficial to single and treble hooks? Etc.

Good job. Goes to show what can be done. Limiting exposure to the air once retrieved and resisting the urge to crank on it before cleaning greatly enhances the chances of success.

Yes and more than you can list.

I have, with the customers permission, serviced mag seal reels replacing the lube with traditional lubricants with no ill affects. I’ll stop short of you that you should, but yes you can. as for casting weight, a 5” senko is well within the capability of any modern baitcaster even without adding weight. They’re much heavier than you realize. The Steez should handle even lighter rigs if the rod and line are right.

Sure. I offer an econo clean service at $18 that would likely cover that.

Always fill the spool for max casting performance

No, we can’t get the mag seal product. When I said service as normal I meant as a normal reel disregarding the mag seal feature. My understanding is a little different than Dwight’s and I may be wrong but I can’t see sealing a reel against water intrusion as a replacement for service. If they’ll service it for 5 yrs let them. Or like I said, either ignore the mag seal or the service interval going with the if it ain’t broke don’t fix it train of thought.

You’ll have to check with Daiwa in as far as them servicing a JDM reel. They certainly could if they wanted to but… As for myself, Daiwa won’t sell the mag seal fluid. There are a few online sellers offering an alternative but I haven’t messed with it. Given the lack of options in service providers and availability of materials for DIY I could see people putting off or foregoing services. This could negate any claimed advantages of magseal (of which I’m skeptical). If it were mine, I’d use it hard for a year to run out the warranty period then take the included service if available. If not, I’d service it as normal (or have it done) and sleep like a baby.

Mechanically it won’t hurt a thing.

You’re right in that it won’t hurt anything. U40 is a water based polymer so once it cures you need a solvent or abrasive to remove it. Nothing too aggressive is needed. Magic eraser and maybe some alcohol should work without harming anything. Be careful on a painted blank. You could make a bad matter worse.

Dobyns doesn’t put a lot of resources into their spinning rods. The new owners will going forward I suspect.

By sight and feel is the best tool can do. If you can’t get it out of the side plate I clean them by plugging one end with a finger and spraying with simple green, then swabbing. Flush with hot water, shake and blow dry and swab with acetone. Checking the feel as described by frnknsteen is a good step then check again during assembly.