Delaware Valley Tackle

Welcome Sam!

Even though Steelhead are a good size fish, a steelie rod isn't designed to throw big, heavy baits. You want something 7'6" or longer, with a lot of backbone and a fast, soft tip. Maybe something like this: http://www.***.com/Daiwa_Heartland_Big_Bait_Special_Casting_Rod/descpage-DHBBS.html

I would agree with flechero's point on a knock around rod, but once you reach what I consider "top-quality", I would build my own or seriously consider having a custom built.

The Pflueger Criterion is 5.1:1 ratio. I suspect they are interchangeable but their service dept can confirm: Other Pflueger® Products - Service for Other Pflueger® Products For service, parts or warranty questions on all other Pflueger® products, please contact us at: In the U.S. (800) 554-4653 In Canada (204) 857-3467

PM Sent

PM sent BassResource.com Members get 10% off our already great prices on quality custom rods. 100% satisfaction guaranteed. I'd also recommend cork on a build where weight reduction is a primary concern. Mike

PM sent. I'm across the Delaware from Sussex County NJ and Orange County NY. I may be able to meet if necessary. Mike

The lightest flouro leader you can get away with and the right leader length to keep bait just off the bottom will get the most strikes. Use stealth in approaching holes and riffles and approach from downstream if possible.

PM sent. I'm a Boca Bearing Dealer and can supply them to forum members below retail. The push-pin on the ABU is larger on one end and only goes in or out in one direction. Mike

I'm also 0-1. Our club Tx was won with a bag of 4 SMB weighing.........4.8 lbs. Tough day all around.

All good advice. The only thing I'd add is to keep in mind that a magnetic braking system comes into play at the end of the cast slowing the spool to minimize over-run. A centrifugal brake is just the opposite, controlling the start up. You'll have much better results making nice smooth casts, loading the rod and letting it do the work. Being too aggressive with your cast gets the spool spinning faster than the lure can pull out the line.

If you'd like to replace drag washers with carbontex, I have a chart of the dimensions of washers in different kits. If you can give me ID, OD and thickness, I may be able to cross reference. PM or email if you'd like. Mike

Lilinnonah was tough Sat. Our club Tx was won with 4 fish weighing 4.8 Lbs. A lot of us got skunked or only brought 1-2 to the scales. I've heard better reports from Candlewood but haven't been yet.

Proper setup is key especially when learning. You didn't mention what reel you have but here's the basic procedure. Turn off all braking by turning Mag dial to -0- and snapping centrifugal brake shoes in the off position closest to the spool center. Tie on medium weight plug or weight and reel to about 6" from the tip. Adjust the cast control knob so that the weight falls slowly when the spool is released and the spool turns no more than 1/4 turn when the weight hits the ground. You can then set the brakes both to maximum and make nice easy lob casts. Ease off the breaks a little at a time as you gain comfort.

This is kind of hard to do alone. lightsout's voice test actually works, but if you don't bring a helper getting a volunteer might be challenging. I'm sure you could get a store clerk to tap lightly on the tip while you hold the rod to get some idea.

Nice work. I know what you mean about the Mud Hole decals. Not only are they unattractive, they are often creased or otherwise unusable anyway.

Here's one place: http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/lure-making-parts/ Check your PM also

Basically, gears get grease and bearings and levelwind get oil. The reel should be stripped and thoroughly cleaned at least annually. Are you having problems with the reel? If it's new and lightly used you should be OK for a while.

How much of what type of grease did you use and where did you put it? The rotor nut may be too tight as you suggest. Did you use a schematic to reassemble?

Reel Magic and WD-40 are harsh on line and the environment. They also will act as a degreaser if they come in contact with bearings and other internal parts. KVD Line & Lure is a much better option IMO.

Brand aside, I'd look for something 7' Med or even ML with a fast action.

I'd be a little leary of this offer. It can definetly be done and since G. Loomis is no longer offering blanks to custom builders, it may be worthwhile. To do this right is a lot of work. $40 sounds almost too good to be true. Just check it out before you commit.

Check the level-wind by applying light finger pressure against the guide as you reel. Feel for rough spots or hesitations especially when the guide changes directions. If it is suspect, send it in and I'll diagnose further. If you think it's working properly, try stripping off the line looking to see if it levels out. You can also try taking the reel off the rod and re-spooling to see if that makes a difference. The placement of the first guide can sometimes cause line to stack on one side.

Med Hvy is a good all-round power for bass fishing techniques. The decision you face is more about the action/speed of the rod. Typically a dedicated worm rod would be a fast action and the top-water rod would be a moderate action. I'd suggest MH/F as a multi-purpose rod.

If the backing went on level, something must have changed when you spooled the main line. What type knot did you use to attach the main line? See if the knot dug in or created a lump on the spool. Did you run the line through your fingers putting tension on the line? If so, you may have been unknowingly pulling against the level wind. If the level wind is suspect, apply light finger pressure against the line guide in the opposite direction it is moving as you reel. Feel for rough spots or hesitation, especially at the ends when the guide changes directions.