I fish the Tiny Torpedo slower with sweeps of the rod or slow reeling even dead drifting in current seams. I throw a pop-r or spook for faster moving baits.
I've worked on quite a few Pinnacle reels and my experience with the company has been much different than what you've had. Give the rep here a chance, and think he'll resolve the issue.
Having to buy assemblies as opposed to small individual parts is not uncommon. If you bend a push pin on an ABU, you have to buy a spool :'(. Good luck.
If you have the room to cast it, a 7'+ rod will give you more casting distance. When I have limited space or have to hike through brush to get to a spot, I'll go to a 6' or 6'6" 2 piece rod. MH/F is probably the most versatile rod for bass fishing techniques, but M is usually heavy enough.
No need to abandon spinning tackle to begin enjoying baitcasting. Each has it's time and place and many over-lap. You will want to upgrade however if you're getting serious abaout bass fishing. As RW suggests, the Stradic is a great choice. If you're budget is a little tighter, the Pfleuger President is a great value. Stick with the 2500 size for drag performance and line management.
Yes. Just like other tools, there are often more than one that will get the job done. Each tool will have advantages in specific circumstances, but either will work.
Micro guides have their place and used properly, have a positive effect on performance. Lightening the tip section improves sensitivity. Casting accuracy and distance can be improved by shooting the line on a straighter path (I use the analogy of a gun barrel).
It is the lack of adding oil that gives you the results you're seeing. I've heard good things about this product but have not tried it. It is described as an oil/solvent (so is WD 40). I doubt that the oil residue left behind after the solvent evaporates will protect the bearings from premature wear.
Standard Clean/Lube - $18.00
HSTA Drag Kit Retail - $ 8.00
Sub Total -$26.00
BassResource.com Disc ($2.60)
Total - $23.40
Shipping/Ins est $8.00
TYD $31.40
Thanks,
Mike
The Carbontex drag is the real deal, and pretty inexpensive upgrade. Even on a reel with powerful stock drag the smoothness is an improvement.
I can install them as part of a regular cleaning on which BassResource.com members get a 10% discount on parts and labor.
Mike
The only way to be sure is dis-assembly and inspection. If the problem is a certain spot as you crank there may be a gear involved. I'll take a look at it if you'd like. If you want to attempt repair yourself, PM or email me if you get stuck.
Mike
Also consider some digital pics of the assembled parts for reference later and lay out the parts as you disassemble so you can reverse the order. This is NOT a substitution for RM's advice of obtaining a schematic.
From ABU site:
Born from the Revo series, the Orra is built around the performance that has made Abu Garcia legendary in a sleek package that will give anglers the perfect combination of performance, reliability and value.
7 Ball Bearings
Corrosion Resistant Instant Anti-Reverse Bearing
Light Weight Aluminum Frame
Power Disk Drag System
One-piece Aluminum Spool
Pitch Centrifugal Brake for Greater Cast Control
Duragear Brass Gears for Long Life
Oversized Main Gear
Model No. Ball Bearings Config. Gear Ratio Line Capacity Price
ORRA SX (1156783) 8 Right 6.4:1 12lb. / 145yd. 99.95
Squealing generally indicates bearing noise so a drop (1) of light oil on the races will not hurt. Since this seems to have started after having the side plate off I'd check to make sure everything is seated well. Loosening the cast control knob on the crank side gives the spool little play and you can readjust afterwords. If problems persist return or exchange it right away.
I always look for rip-rap lining the banks and bridge pilings. I run a crank parallel at different depths and once I get bites followup with a tube, craw or worm.
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