Delaware Valley Tackle

There are good JDM sites where you can save some with the currency exchange but not 50%+. And I feel ya as far as wishful thinking.

You pretty much answered your own question.

Spinning reel bails are a #1 contender for biggest PIA in reel service.

The purpose of the ramp on the frame isn’t to kept the rotor from turning, it hits the trip lever to close the bail by cranking. None of it has anything to do with oscillation.

If your symptoms started suddenly after reassembly it could be an easy fix. How old is the reel? I don’t remember off the top of my head if the oscillation gear is round or oblong on those. Wear shouldn’t do what you describe unless teeth are actually missing but it seems like you’d have seen that or feel really rough.

Right , but I take issues with the unbalanced graphic. Drag washers don’t affect spool hight or line lay. Reeling against the drag creates line twist though.

The reel should have come with a few thin plastic washers that fit on the main shaft under the spool. Add one, pull off as much line as possible and re-spool. If line stacked the other way you would remove a washer.

Everything pre owned is getting top dollar since there’s no inventory of new stuff.

Avoid the urge to tug hard tightening knots especially with braid. The “thumb trick” is the ticket. And taping the spool is a good hack. I do it when practicing skipping with only 50’ of line out.

It’s hard to compare raw weights as each blank model has different dimensions. Even if they’re the same length and lure weight one might have a larger butt diameter. Couple tenths one way or the other isn’t a deal breaker and a slightly heavier one might score better on Micks resonance test. Use on the water is the only true test. Research and due diligence is important but you’re way overthinking this and could end up taking the joy out of the process. Good luck on your build.

Gloomis doesn’t sell blanks anymore. The NFC x ray, Rodgeeks c4, St Croix SCV, Rainshadow Rx10 or leftover Eternity, PointBlank are all good. IMO grips are 90% cosmetic as little if any of the hand makes significant contact during the retrieve. I like the G2 and have used a lot of them.

I don’t think stature plays much if any roll in rod choices. I’m this scenario I’d decide how important long casts are and decide on that basis. I don’t think either model uses unusual grip length but I haven’t handled them in person.

Yes. It’s a rapid choke system. You can see it explained on the Anglers Resource site. As pointed out by UNO you can go smaller with light enough line.

Epoxy doesn’t have to be a football glob first of all and there’s no data for 90% of this. In hand, fishing a build as described I don’t believe the difference could be felt. Just trying to save a new builder from driving himself nuts over thinking things. Sometimes that’s half the fun of this though. To each his own, that’s the core of custom Lightest doesn’t by itself doesn’t equate to best performance. The KR system uses fewer, smaller reduction guides. AmTac makes something close but I forget the model. I don’t believe Torzite are lighter than recoils but the difference either way is minute. Differing opinions aren’t dismissive and my apologies if I came across that way

I can’t begin to address all the misstatements in this thread. Suffice to say the lightest AND best performance guide train for finesse bass spinning is Fuji Titanium Torzite reduction train klh 20h 10h 5.5m 5.5kb recoil runners and Torzite top. Fuji VSS seat up locking cork or Eva, no rear grip and short fighting butt. The weight saving of permagloss is negligible and irrelevant to performance. Short wraps, no decals. The van stahl is a nice reel but I’m not sure it’s the best match to this build. You will not get a sub 3oz finished rod. Sun 4 will be a win. That’s not to be discouraging just realistic.

Saving money is the absolute worst reason to get into rod building. The higher end you go the better the chance of saving a little. The satisfaction and enjoyment of the craft is the only motivation that won’t likely disappoint you.

Cork, being a natural material like wood varies slightly among samples. It’s normal and not an indication of quality or lack of.

The Lews reels typically respond well to Super tuning. I’d upgrade the drags and bearings if they’re not in great shape.

Today’s reels all have overkill drags on them. If reels with different handles have slightly different specs it’s not because of the handle, but some other feature like gear size. At any rate it’s irrelevant for the most part.

Reels don’t cast, rods do. The best you can get from a reel is limited restriction of casts. Pick a quality name brand reel and set it up correctly and you’ll be able to cast further than you want to set a hook. Supple line, tightly and fully spooled, brakes set to preference, spool bearings flushed and lightly oiled, bait weight appropriate for the rod. Obviously you exclude shallow spool, BFS and “skipping” reels in this case.

A competent rod builder could save that using an over sleeve technique. I wouldn’t use it as is though.

The U40 is the best product. Not a substitute for regular care though: keep cork clean, dry, pits filled etc.

If the level wind is kept clean they’ll last as long as any other.

Yes the measuring syringe

Doesn’t permagloss require air to cure?