Delaware Valley Tackle

Lamiglass sr 765 MH (sadly no longer available) Revo Winch, old Daiwa crazy cranker if you can find one.

I’ll run a leader if I want to be able to break off easily if necessary, if abrasion is a concern like around zebra mussel or conserve line if changing baits often. Visibility is a non concern for me. There is something to be said for confidence though if that’s how you feel.

First step is to be sure all tension spacers are in place in the cast control knob and palm side plate.

The seats St Croix uses are as good as they get. If you ever have a problem simply contact them.

DC braking is a unique system but not magic, auto pilot or replacement for proper casting technique and skill.

Releasing the clutch via the thumb bar with tension on the reel is harsh and potentially more damaging than letting the drag work as designed.

If you’re land bound tie off to a post with a swivel and pull the line tight several times. Not as effective as trolling out but better than nothing.

The grease isn’t reacting to anything and nothing catastrophic will happen. I’d have to see it to have a strong opinion on what’s going on. Blue Yama lube or equivalent, Cals or Superlube are proven products for reel gears.

“Micro guide” is a term like many others with no narrow definition. It’s used to describe a range of guide sizes from 5 down with 6 being the traditional running guide size. Guides of all sizes come in various grades of quality and durability. It’s not fair or accurate to lump all “micro guides” together. They’re appropriate in some applications and not do much in others. The goal is to build a rod with the lightest guides that will pass necessary connections and hold up to the application. This allows the blank to retain as much as possible of its original properties especially recovery time which Mick regularly refers to as natural frequency. In theory this maximizes sensitivity. Any improvement in accuracy or casting distance is ancillary and often overstated. Most of my personal rods have 4 or 4.5 size running guides. They’ll pass neat Albright knots joining 50# braid and 14# leader no problem. If you’re just experimenting I’d try a rod on a quality blank intended for bottom contact finesse baits where sensitivity is primary concern.

I’ve handled these and agree they are a fine collection.

U40 cork sealer is a water based polymer. All it does is provide a thin film to repel dirt and moisture. It’s not slippery, doesn’t harm the cork or change its properties in any way.

KVD l&l is a polymer based product that bonds to the line. Products like wd 40 and reel magic contain petroleum distillates that actually slightly degrade mono and fluoro softening them which makes them more manageable. KVD is better for the environment to boot.

That’s not a screw that requires any torque at all but you see that already. Loctite might be enough if there’s some threads left I can’t tell from here. Don’t jb weld it tight or you’ll never get the side plate off. You can jb weld the hole them drill and tap to original size. Again, we’re just spit balling here sight unseen

I second the ML spinning rig for versatility from the bank.

Since there’s no industry standard for H or MH and baits and cover vary, a suitable rod might be labeled either way. In the scenario of full size hollow body frogs over pads or matted grass, rods typically labeled as H work best. Something rated up to 1oz with a beefy butt.

7# of drag is sufficient for 20# mono or fluoro. More only increases chances of damage to rod and reel as well as failure of line and connections.

Your product choice is correct. Fill deep holes in layers for most solid repair. Consider finishing with U40 cork sealer. No it doesn’t change the color or make them slippery.

True, no two mechanical devices are actually identical. It’s common to notice slight differences. What you’re seeing could be variations in lubrication, time on retail shelves, use/ break in, etc. You’re on the right track in putting a hard season on each then doing a deep clean.

Short answer, no

Those gears nor bearings have not worn out so quickly. What you feel is just the result of a very light weight rigid frame transmitting feel similar to a high end rod. Frequent cleaning and a little extra grease can treat the symptoms temporarily but just mask it.

First, I haven’t been able to talk to anyone at Pure Fishing since the Covid lock down so I feel ya. I have the fix for the binding. Call or email me and I’ll help you out.

Yes on the friction ring. Send it at your convenience if you wish.

The Avid spinning mh blank is a touch lighter power rated 3/8-3/4.

No blank is arrow straight but a bend that deep in the blank is unusual. Whether or not it indicates potential failure is conjecture but better safe than sorry.

Two different reels with different focus: light weight performance vs super rigid smooth.