Delaware Valley Tackle

They are nasty little buggers but are like crack for bass.

A heavier reel won't do much if anything since you palm the reel right where the fulcrum would be. A slightly larger spinning reel can have an effect, depending on your grip. The problem with inseting weight into the blank is that it can come loose and slide further in if you're not careful. Also, it requires more weight than if you position the weight further back. A cap of some kind is probably the best after market solution. The main consideration is why you want to modify at all. If the goal is to achieve a feel that YOU PREFER by all means go for it. There is no right or wrong balance point since the rod is used on several planes and with different lures. My personal preference is to not add weight anywhere.

There's also some nice second hand tackle in the Flea Market forum.

Welcome to the forum. The Orra sx is ok as a budget reel but I'd steer clear of the others. Value wise, there's a big difference if you could hold out and save up a little more for a Revo S, Citca or even BPS PQ on sale. There's been quite a few reviews of the Vengeance rods and Vendetta rods and the concensus seems to be that the Vendetta is worth the extra $.

What are the two models being compared? If feasible, Shimano can answer the question and send the part: Shimano American Corp. 1 Holland Irvine, CA 92618 On site customer support - Irvine office 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday - Friday Pacific Standard Time Customer Service: 877-577-0600 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday - Friday Pacific Standard Time

The 2500 size class spinning reel will work well especially with braided line or mono/fluoro in 10lb and under. If you'll want heavier line, you might have better luck managing the line on a 4000 size spool.

Welcome to the forum Wilonso. As far as a multi purpose rod goes, a 6'6" - 7' Medium Heavy power, fast action is probably what you want. Casting distance is the most relevent performance aspect related to rod length. A longer rod also helps in situations where you want to take up line quickly on a hookset. A shorter rod may be easier to handle shore fishing around trees and brush. As for a first baitcast reel, I'd suggest spending just a little more for an ABU Revo S, Shimano Citica etc. A better quality reel will be more user friendly and will last a long time if cared for. Hope this helps. Good luck!

An Ambassadeur C3 on a used swimbait rod might be worth looking into. You might be a little over $100 but still reasonable.

Graphite has a higher stiffness/weight ratio than glass. The decreased weight is where the increased performance is derived from. The trade off for the extra stiffness of the graphite is a degree of brittleness, not necessarily fragility. Graphite is more susceptible to damage from rough handling, but barring that it is a strong and light weight material ideal for many rod blanks.

Are you using braid by chance? What you're hearing may be the braid through the guides. Especially since the noise changes with the rod orientation.

Taper has no official definition in regard to rods. It's another subjective term used several ways. IMO Taper is a relation of the tip to butt diameter. It affects action but is not the same as action. A rod described as having a fast taper would be one with a combination of fast action and more back bone relative to another rod with similar ratings. It really doesn't mean much at all. The marketing of the particular rods you're looking at may be making the correlation that the faster taper is a faster action but I don't know since there are no stadardized ratings. As for picking your new rod, stick to the ratings of lure weight and action and match that to what you want to do with it.

I think I know where you're going here. There is a lot more to being on a Pro(as in promotional)Team than taking free or discounted equipment and wearing a patch. Pro fishing, Nascar, x-games and all the rest are really advertising vehicles. If you can't help the sponsor move product, they don't care how much you win or anything else. Of course winning or placing well brings attention but that must be parlayed into product endorsement and sales or it has no value. The opposite is true to a point as well. You may not be placing highly but are holding your own and are very outgoing and charismatic with good contacts, you will have value to offer.

You can probably do away with the leader altogether in most cases. Other times snug the Albright down tight and you can trim the tags right up flush. The knot should pass anything down to a size 4 with no problem.

First off, make sure you have a schematic in front of you before disassenbling any reel. Keep close track of the order you remove parts as the schematic does not necessarily show the disassembly order. All the parts should be thoroughly cleaned and degreased using hot water and Dawn or Simple Green etc. The bearings should be flushed with acetone or carb/brake cleaner. The teeth of gears and meshing parts should get greased. sliding parts such as the clutch should be oiled or greased very lightly. bearings should get oil. One drop on the race for spool bearings. You can go a little heavier on crank and pinion bearings since they don't spin fast. Lightly oil the levelwind worm gear. Grease will collect dirt and gum up due to the exposed nature of the gear. The AR clutch can be flushed and oiled lightly with a swab. Don't go crazy with the lube. Less is more in most cases.

A branded exclusive is different from private label. Also, just because a certain company produces a private label does not necessarily mean it is the same product as the national brand.(or that it isn't for that matter)

x2 - I also use a loop knot on rare occations

I'd put the Carbon Black on the jig rod, the Extreme on the pitching rod, the Accurist on the C-rig set up, and the JM on the spinner bait rod. The two fastest reels will help take up line quickly for jig and plastic fishing. The C-rig is probably fairly heavy and crawled across the bottom doesn't need a high speed. The JM is a middle of the road to make burning or slow rolling the spinnerbaits comfortable.

Yup, MH/Mod casting. From there you can start getting technique specific if you choose.

1988

The "impossible to back lash" claims of the Enigma are over blown imo. In the BPS line I suggest sticking with the PQ. AS for the ratio question, verify the IPT to be sure of what you are getting, but trying a 7.x:1 is worthwhile if you've never had one.

The PQ is a great value. Durability is not a major concern with them nor is availability of parts. They may not be as industructable as Shimano's but you'll get your money's worth and then some.

The gap comes from the split reel seat they use, it has no insert, which is hollow and doesn't contact the blank fully any how so there is no adverse affect on sensitivity. If it feels good to you it is fine.

There are also pegging systems you can buy, but you can always go old school and wedge a toothpick inside the weight and break it off. The water will make the wood swell and hold it tight.

Here is a link to a detailed yet concise article covering the basics: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html

The main problem I see with Quantums in the shop is a poor quality finish. A high percentage have corosion, blisters and blemishes. The AR sleeves corrode too often as well. I see minor QC issues like holes not lining up perfectly. This is not to bash the brand, each has their own issues. The issues I see in the Quantums are not all that major but pop up too frequently. The designs are good except for the gawd awful side plate release setup. It makes them unnecessarily difficult to service. THe smoothness, feespool and drag are all pretty good for the most part. If the QC and finish were up to par with the rest of the reel I think a lot of the nay sayers would come around. With reels around like the Curado and Ambassadeuer that you just can't kill if you tried, It's hard to look past even slight but apparent quality issues.