Delaware Valley Tackle

There's a state park at canal lock 6 north of Waterford. Try cruising N Mohawk St / Crescent Rd out of Cohoes and Canal Rd of Vischers Ferry on the other side. They both skirt the river bank and may offer access to some spots.

When I use up the Moss Green I have I'm going to a HI-Vis

St Croix has this: PS60MHF 6' MH Fast 1 8 - 14 3/8 - 3/4 3.9 4 $ 110

To skip cast? Weighted plastics, T-rig?

The softer braid handles better, but if it's that much better the reel may not have been adjusted properly both times. The braid is fine 90% of the time. You can add a leader (look up Albright knot) in super clear water or where abbrasion is a concern (mussel beds etc).

FWIW, even as a co-angler, the more prep I do, the more I enjoy the tourny. Consider doing a dry run the day prior and check everything. Rolling out of bed and going fishing with no worries is worth the upfront work.

The longer rod will help flipping since you're using a static line length. The longer pendulum probably helps some but not like when fully loading a longer rod. I use the same rod for both and modify the cast depending on the distance to my target. I find 7'6" as a good happy medium and I'm not real tall.

These are all good bait/lure suggestions especially the senko/ika. To maximize whatever bait you use study the detail of the pond for spots that will attract and hold bass. The spots will be much like a bigger lake but may be much more subtle. In a pond, a 6" to 1' depth change can be important. All things are relative. Concentrate on the inlet, outlet and dam or dyke. Weedlines and any islands, points or pockets. Drag a heavy jig or C-rig around the pond feeling for brush, rocks, weeds and channels. Make note of where they are concentrate your casts to these targets.

Too much play will make the reel noisy and probably not cast its best, but I don't see it doing any harm. On the other side, just barely adjusting the side play out probably does'nt restrict free-spool enough to restrict casting. Which ever way your own experience suggests will be fine.

With all due respect, if all the parts are present and installed correctly, the reel would be working correctly. It is likely a small adjustment and difficult to pin down without seeing. Make sure the AR bearing (#63 is seated far enough for the sleeve (#64) to stick out the top slightly. The drag may be pressing on the AR and not the sleeve as intended.

Check to be sure the drag spring washers are oriented correctly. They should face each other like this: () Here is a schematic which everyone should have before opening a reel: http://www.abugarcia.com/sites/default/files/schematics/PROMAX%20%201701.pdf If all the parts are present I'd really need to see the reel to be able to diagnose further.

All good points so far. In addition, make sure your spool is filled to within 1/8" of the spool lip and that the lip is clean. Treating your line with KVD line and lure will help some, even more on heavier fluorocarbon line. These things will help maximize casting distance but the real key is in the rod. Be sure it is rated approriately for the lures/bait you are casting.

I don't know how far you tore the reel down, but it really should be stripped to the frame and checked closely. I do them for $16.20 ea for forum members (regularly $18). To continue DIY, I don't know about those specific parts, but I just got some others for old Curados. Contact Shimano here: Shimano American Corp. 1 Holland Irvine, CA 92618 On site customer support - Irvine office 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Monday - Friday Pacific Standard Time Customer Service: 877-577-0600 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Monday - Friday Pacific Standard Time I've also found discontinued parts here: http://www.fishingreelparts.com/

Welcome to the forums. What did you spool up with? If it was braid and you did not use backing, the braid is slipping on the spool giving the illlusion that the drag is malfunctioning. Wind the braid onto another empty reel. Fill the spool 1/2-2/3 full with cheap mono, connect the braid with an Albright knot and fill to 1/8" from the spool rim with braid. As for the spool tension knob, make sure the shim did knot fall out and that the spring if any is seated completely. Let us know what that does. Email or call me if get stuck. 973-459-2835 Mike

J, you make a good point as usual. I glossed over the "starting out" part of the OP. Over thinking and "analysis paralysis" all too common in this sport.

Welcome Andrew! I live across the river from Sussex County, NJ which has a tremendous amount of good fishing water. Let me know if need any local insight.

Welcome Brandon! You'll find the membership here very accepting and helpful. "Ready" or not, I'm sure you'll enjoy meeting the members. I wish I could make it myself.

Welcome aboard! The NE and Smallmouth forums (not to mention the rest) are both full of great stuff for you. River smallies are a blast!

Welcome to THE bass forum. Where are you in Eastern PA? I'm here in NEPA at the top of the Water Gap. I here you about being addicted to bass, but don't over look those carp when bass fishing is slow. They pull like crazy.

A swimbait rod will make all day casting easier. For once in a while use a flippin' stick will do in a pinch.

I think you make a valid point that not all aluminum is created equal. I'd defer to an engineer that could explain the precise differences, but my opinon as it stands is Magnesium<Machined aluminum<graphite<cast aluminum as far as strength to weight is concerned.

The 50E casts pretty well right out of the box and I've tuned a number of them. I haven't had any feedback about being unmanageable. You can always use lube viscosity and amount to fine tune spool performance in addition to the braking. It may take some trial and error to get it exactly right. Check with me in the future, I could have saved you a few bucks on the upgrade parts.

If it's brand new just exchange it. Get a good one, put some hours on it and have it deep cleaned and properly lubed down the road.

They're both good quality. Whether the features are worth the difference in price is up to you same as Curado vs Core or SX vs Premier etc...

Not sound like a broken record, but before dropping $250> on a factory rod, look into a quality custom build.