Delaware Valley Tackle

There’s a big difference between a warranty and a replacement program. Any actual defect will be apparent the first few times a rod is deeply loaded. Anything after that is handling and use related. “Warranties “ offering lifetime replacement are really insurance programs where the most careful and responsible pay for the consequences of the lesser so. Nothing is free. If I see extremely generous replacement offers it just tells me I’m paying extra for something i likely won’t use.

Rod ratings are 100% subjective with zero industry standards. They’re just recommendations of the manufacturers. Line wt ratings are virtually meaningless for a bass rod.

Centrifugal or dual brakes are most user friendly. Daiwa’s system is in a class of its own but there are variants, some better than others. Don’t waste your time looking for “backlash proof” reels. Learn to thumb the spool and it will open up a wide array of options to you.

If the reel is in otherwise good condition, I’d consider looking for a parts reel to buy.

There are too many variables and lack of industry standards in label specs for your proposed chart to have any applicable significance. Sharp, quality hooks, common sense and personal experience will get you where you need to be.

That’s a full floating spool design. There is no spool bearing in the side plate, it’s on the spool.

Sounds like the reel foot is a little small for the seat. I’d put a couple layers of tape on the bottom of the foot and teflon tape on the threads. Locktite won’t do anything for you.

Agree 100%.

How tight are you trying to run it? Spool tension has nothing to do with bearings. If indeed it’s not working properly you have missing spacers or the cap is cross threaded not tightening. Is there lateral play on the spool?

Without seeing them it’s hard to determine how much attention they need. If they’re really “like new” I’d say just fish them. At some point a deep cleaning is advisable but there’s nothing wrong with interim service (which we now do as well). Go only as far as you feel comfortable. Let me or us here know if you get stuck or need help. Reach out anytime you need service.

Not yet. It’s been really busy here. I’ll post impressions when I do though.

I agree that Reel x products are good choices. 99% of the time you can get by just fine with whatever you have around the house or locally handy. In the grand scheme of things reels are not a harsh application for lubricants. Water resistance, corrosion prevention being the two specific concerns. Low viscosity of course for spool bearings. All the reel lubes you see are just repurposed and repackaged products.

Tsi 321 is supposed to bond and not sling off like other oils. That’s why you can use less and have more free spinning bearings. I can’t prove or disprove the claims but from what I can see it lasts at least as well as conventional oil.

The brand and type of grease for use on reels is given way too much significance. The single most important thing is to do regular maintenance and keep things clean and lubricated with something appropriate. The feel of a new reel has little to do with the type(s) of grease used. Shimano bantam drag grease works well on both drags and gears. It’s similar to Cals. Personally, I’ve pretty much settled on marine grease for gears, Cals for drags that require it, gear oil for frame bearings, level wind and sliding parts, Lighting Lube or air tool oil for spool bearings. Tsi321 in tuned reel spool bearings. Ps: I’m not giving the OP hell, lol. You’re not doing any harm by tinkering and experimenting but I hate to see you or anyone following stress over this.

If the guides are rusty, damaged or wraps are compromised replacement makes sense. No need to replace good guides to get a match. Especially since your wraps won’t likely be aesthetically appealing first few tries. There are cases where a rod can be brought alive by updating the guide train but you need rod building experience or advice to make that determination.

Best guess yet.

There’s nothing serviceable in the DC module. If you’re suspicious of it after it dries, I’d spray it down with electronics cleaner rather than disassembling it. I think you’ll be ok though.

I’m a proponent of Carbontex drags in general. Replacing felt is a no brainer.

I don’t think it’s ever necessary to loosen the drag after every trip. As for the Steez, if memory serves that came with Carbon fiber drag and is a 3 piece kit. I’ve upgraded them because the Carbontex weave is a little different and it’s an inexpensive upgrade.

Daiwa frags are typically part carbon with the lower washer being a hard pressed material. Stock is sufficient but the upgrade is inexpensive and provides a long lasting drag that is smooth and predictable.

Some do, some don’t, some use a combination.

It sure won’t hurt anything, but I don’t see it as critical. If I made a top ten list of reel care tips loosening drag after every trip wouldn’t make the list. If you’re one to lock drags down, which I discourage but I know is done, and you store for long periods I’d back them off. Especially if you have a shimano with the non carbon washers.

The hard part is removing the pin from the spool without damaging anything. Unless something is damaged or corroded there’s no need to change out everything. The two spool bearings maybe will be an improvement but it’s minimal after cleaning and flushing them. I have bearings in stock if you want them or I can install them for you.

Are you working with a builder yet? They should be able to answer these questions but will need more details about the application. If someone recommends a blank without asking questions about the rods intended use, run.

If you want to try to save it, I’ll fill and smooth the damage with structural epoxy then wrap and finish. It could last a while or forever.