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Delaware Valley Tackle

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Everything posted by Delaware Valley Tackle

  1. It depends on the lure weight rating as there’s no industry standard. Heavier spinning rigs are handy for skipping and head wind casting
  2. Sorry I’m late here. So far so good on advice given. WD40 is ok in the way you’re using as a degreaser. I’d recommend wiping the residue off mating surfaces of gears before applying grease just to assure max adhesion. Dry off drag components too. I’d say the biggest mistake is overthinking to a level that discourages maintenance all together. Second worst mistake is not allowing time to complete the project (likely a couple hrs first time). Next is not having a schematic handy. Remember, schematics are a parts list and don’t necessarily show assembly order or part orientation. If you ever get stuck on one, reach out.
  3. Naphtha works well but I’ve moved on due to health concerns with repeated exposure. Acetone is more user friendly and almost as effective. You can follow up with a dna bath for extra but it’s not necessary. Simple green for the rest.
  4. You wouldn’t be the first to run a reel with no brakes or mag only. The need for the inoperable brakes is dependent upon you as the user. I’d want them if it were mine. Parts availability is the next hurdle
  5. Unlike much of what you see online regarding SuperTuned reels, I avoid making any similar exaggerated claims regarding casting distance. Imo the biggest advantage of improved free spool whether achieved through cleaning, super Tuning or bearing upgrades is easier casting leading to improved accuracy. Some ancillary distance gained is common. The rub is that people don’t do improvements in steps. For example, a dirty, gummed up reel gets super tuned and new bearings and gets substantial gains. A simple deep cleaning would have realized 75% of those gains and should always be the first step. This is the new baseline to compare further modifications against. Different reel models respond differently to modifications too. This also goes unaddressed all too often. Anyone with general or specific questions should feel free to contact me directly or by posting. Hopefully people I’ve dealt with will agree, I’m more apt to under sell than to push something that won’t benefit the customer.
  6. You’re not the first or last to have unrealistic expectations of a reel after all the marketing and internet chatter we get our way.
  7. Grease should only be used to lubricate and preserve parts, never to “silence” reels by masking imperfections or tolerances of manufacturing. Grease on an open application like level winds is a bad idea. The grease collects debris which becomes abrasive. An oil film is best here. Packing drive gears only wastes product and makes future cleaning more difficult. Fast spinning the handle doesn’t tell you a thing. That’s not normal reel use. In general it’s reasonable to expect a reel to develop some level of sound and feel after some use. Without seeing the reel or what you did/ didn’t do I can’t say with certainty whether or not it could be better.
  8. Most of the extra services pertain more to casting reels since the casting is mechanical. I’m always open to inspecting and making recommendations as to what a specific reel would benefit from. Email or call to discuss your specifics if you’d like. Otherwise you can send whatever you have at your convenience.
  9. Line touching the blank doesn’t hurt a thing but the rod in your pic is unacceptable. There should be another guide in between right at the apex of the curve.
  10. There’s a big difference between a warranty and a replacement program. Any actual defect will be apparent the first few times a rod is deeply loaded. Anything after that is handling and use related. “Warranties “ offering lifetime replacement are really insurance programs where the most careful and responsible pay for the consequences of the lesser so. Nothing is free. If I see extremely generous replacement offers it just tells me I’m paying extra for something i likely won’t use.
  11. Rod ratings are 100% subjective with zero industry standards. They’re just recommendations of the manufacturers. Line wt ratings are virtually meaningless for a bass rod.
  12. Centrifugal or dual brakes are most user friendly. Daiwa’s system is in a class of its own but there are variants, some better than others. Don’t waste your time looking for “backlash proof” reels. Learn to thumb the spool and it will open up a wide array of options to you.
  13. If the reel is in otherwise good condition, I’d consider looking for a parts reel to buy.
  14. There are too many variables and lack of industry standards in label specs for your proposed chart to have any applicable significance. Sharp, quality hooks, common sense and personal experience will get you where you need to be.
  15. That’s a full floating spool design. There is no spool bearing in the side plate, it’s on the spool.
  16. Sounds like the reel foot is a little small for the seat. I’d put a couple layers of tape on the bottom of the foot and teflon tape on the threads. Locktite won’t do anything for you.
  17. How tight are you trying to run it? Spool tension has nothing to do with bearings. If indeed it’s not working properly you have missing spacers or the cap is cross threaded not tightening. Is there lateral play on the spool?
  18. Without seeing them it’s hard to determine how much attention they need. If they’re really “like new” I’d say just fish them. At some point a deep cleaning is advisable but there’s nothing wrong with interim service (which we now do as well). Go only as far as you feel comfortable. Let me or us here know if you get stuck or need help. Reach out anytime you need service.
  19. Not yet. It’s been really busy here. I’ll post impressions when I do though.
  20. I agree that Reel x products are good choices. 99% of the time you can get by just fine with whatever you have around the house or locally handy. In the grand scheme of things reels are not a harsh application for lubricants. Water resistance, corrosion prevention being the two specific concerns. Low viscosity of course for spool bearings. All the reel lubes you see are just repurposed and repackaged products.
  21. Tsi 321 is supposed to bond and not sling off like other oils. That’s why you can use less and have more free spinning bearings. I can’t prove or disprove the claims but from what I can see it lasts at least as well as conventional oil.
  22. The brand and type of grease for use on reels is given way too much significance. The single most important thing is to do regular maintenance and keep things clean and lubricated with something appropriate. The feel of a new reel has little to do with the type(s) of grease used. Shimano bantam drag grease works well on both drags and gears. It’s similar to Cals. Personally, I’ve pretty much settled on marine grease for gears, Cals for drags that require it, gear oil for frame bearings, level wind and sliding parts, Lighting Lube or air tool oil for spool bearings. Tsi321 in tuned reel spool bearings. Ps: I’m not giving the OP hell, lol. You’re not doing any harm by tinkering and experimenting but I hate to see you or anyone following stress over this.
  23. If the guides are rusty, damaged or wraps are compromised replacement makes sense. No need to replace good guides to get a match. Especially since your wraps won’t likely be aesthetically appealing first few tries. There are cases where a rod can be brought alive by updating the guide train but you need rod building experience or advice to make that determination.
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