Delaware Valley Tackle

Very common and easy to do.

My bad. hadn’t seen the casting version

ABU website lists an aluminum frame for the Zata. Either way, carbon and aluminum both have grades of quality. Carbon like Shimano’s Ci4 are strong and light while low end cast aluminum reels can be brittle. https://www.abugarcia.com/zata-spinning-reel-1523062

It is an aluminum frame with carbon sideplates according to description on TW. Sounds like a good value even if the rod gets delegated to a spare or loaner or even sold.

We’ll have to agree to disagree on that one.

Why can bushings get contaminated but bearings can’t? I’ve seen lots of seized bearings hardly ever a bushing. Either way the reel should be cleaned and lubed regularly. If you like the free spin in handles that’s fine but just a personal preference. I’m with Jfranco in lubing handle grips to be smooth but not free spinning. As to the OP there’s no NEED add grip bearings, try one reel and see what you prefer.

This is spot on.

I would think so but it depends on the spools. Look at the line capacity labeled on each one. You only need about 75 yards of braid on top of the backing

I’ve carried as many as six, usually 3-4 but invariably ended up using 1-2. I was doing club txs so I could communicate with the boater ahead of time. That helps for sure. I never felt out of the game with my 3 basic setups similar to yours but would grab a technique specific one if I knew I’d be flipping, jerkbaiting etc.

Solid logic

There are lots of variables in use, conditions etc so no one size fits all. I’m most cases you shouldn’t need to open the reel just to grease in between regular cleanings. Keeping the level wind brushed off and oiled, bearings oiled as needed and oiling accessible turning, sliding, moving parts should keep things working well. Occasionally pull the spool and swab off the rim and frame. If your reel has a port like Lews and ABUs adding some grease mid season or stretch the cleaning interval a little doesn’t hurt. Iabass8 is right, interim care is very important.

Are your hooks sharp? Does the rod you’re using have the power to set the hook?

Lure weight ratings are just as subjective as power ratings. Nothing wrong with experimenting to decide for yourself what a rod will and won’t do well. A little common sense will keep you from any catastrophic failure.

This topic comes up a lot. Each time my first thought is “again?” Then I’m amazed at the passion behind each opinion. There’s no right or wrong here. Fishing is fun (supposed to be anyway) so enjoy it your way. In my case, that includes mastering all types of tackle including casting, spinning, fly and center pin which all catch some bass in the right circumstances.

Yes, much more affordable without st Croix branding. Hence my opinion. Any of the major players have competitive products. It’s really splitting hairs at the high end. Again imo

Sorry I misread. Hard to believe 1/64 makes that much difference. Are you using the same plastic?

I’ve never seen a rod cast lighter baits further unless the higher weight severely overloads the rod which isn’t the case here. Something you might want to look into: I suspect the 1/32 jig with trailer might actually be heavier overall and/or more streamlined. Assuming all else is equal: reel, line, wind etc. something sounds off.

Much like when St Croix sold blanks I feel like their pricing was higher than average to protect their finished rod market to some degree. Just an opinion based on blanks I’ve handled over the years.

K2 are nice blanks but you can get equally good for much less. I’ve you’ve already decided, they’re light and crisp with lots of backbone. 736 will make a good flipping rod but probably not what I’d pick to punch.

Either use as is and see if it frees up or exchange it for another one

Easy fix. 100% worth repairing

I’d stick closer to the $100 point for your first one. Get a feel for what you may like in a higher end reel and invest later. A $100 reel will perform well yet you won’t “outgrow “ it as skill develops. Either a Daiwa Fuego, Shimano SLX or something else with with centrifugal brakes. Yes Daiwa are mag brakes but in a class by themselves.

There’s no mechanical advantage in any of those ratios over the others. They’re all so close it doesn’t really matter. I’d just swap them around and see if you find any preferences.

Unless it’s rusted , corroded or visibly damaged save your time and money chasing the sleeve. If you can get the bearing out of the side plate order a new EWC clutch with the appropriate dimensions. You can get oem too but they’re usually more$.

Full strength Simplegreen concentrate rinsed with hot water. Acetone for bearings.