Delaware Valley Tackle

If you feel the need to change the gears in the Met I’d just go with a Curado. Performance in that application is 6 of one , half dozen of the other.

It wasn’t long ago that the internet was filled with complaints of “over greased “ reels that need immediate cleaning out when new. A reel not being visibly slathered in grease is not a problem. Like Jfranco said oiling bearings is S.O.P.

Any light oil is fine for spool bearings. Remoil, 3in1, air tool oil or even sewing machine oil will work. One small drop on the side of the bearing is all it takes. One inside the palm plate one under the cast control cap.

I do a lot of these repairs successfully. If you do decide to retrieve the handle I’d cut it off flush in front of the seat and either drill it out or arbor to fit the new application

Marketing, perception and just plain timing can make all the difference.

If you bought casting tackle in hopes or raw distance over spinning tackle you might be disappointed.

Nice job. Ingenuity worthy of a rod builder!

The easiest answer is a spinning rod where conditions make casting troublesome.

It has to do with the angle of the trip ramp. Shimano design allows the bail to stay open but it not fully open and locked hence the snap. positioning the bail with roller top dead center for casting should eliminate this problem with any spinning reel designs.

I have a friend and customer who is adamant about having all the same reels to eliminate adjustments in technique from one to the next. I don’t do that personally but can see the logic. Each brand has models that shine in certain applications so there’s a good argument for an eclectic collection which is how I lean. For serious tournament angling I stress the importance of bullet proof workhorse reels over anything more refined and “pleasurable “ to fish.

Send whatever you have at your convenience. Thanks!!

Is your question if new reels are “better in every way”? If so, I don’t think it’s that cut and dried.

Agreed. The rub is that they have a cult following and go for more than I paid new on clearance. Personally, I don’t see the “latest tech” having all that much value over the e7. Biggest advantage would be longer parts availability of new models. One could argue that even so, the E is less likely to need parts over time. It’s your call.

Send them my way at your convenience and I’ll fix em up

What does “completely messed up “ mean exactly? I’d be somewhat surprised if a reel that age is not salvageable. If you just want to give him a nice gift, yes the Vanford replaced the ci4. Don’t let him throw away the Stradic. It’s at least worth a little as a parts reel.

I’ve built on blank models like this: m/f spinning 1/4-3/4 and mh/f casting 1/4-3/4 also but a touch faster with beefier mid and butt sections.

It depends on the lure weight rating as there’s no industry standard. Heavier spinning rigs are handy for skipping and head wind casting

Sorry I’m late here. So far so good on advice given. WD40 is ok in the way you’re using as a degreaser. I’d recommend wiping the residue off mating surfaces of gears before applying grease just to assure max adhesion. Dry off drag components too. I’d say the biggest mistake is overthinking to a level that discourages maintenance all together. Second worst mistake is not allowing time to complete the project (likely a couple hrs first time). Next is not having a schematic handy. Remember, schematics are a parts list and don’t necessarily show assembly order or part orientation. If you ever get stuck on one, reach out.

Naphtha works well but I’ve moved on due to health concerns with repeated exposure. Acetone is more user friendly and almost as effective. You can follow up with a dna bath for extra but it’s not necessary. Simple green for the rest.

You wouldn’t be the first to run a reel with no brakes or mag only. The need for the inoperable brakes is dependent upon you as the user. I’d want them if it were mine. Parts availability is the next hurdle

Unlike much of what you see online regarding SuperTuned reels, I avoid making any similar exaggerated claims regarding casting distance. Imo the biggest advantage of improved free spool whether achieved through cleaning, super Tuning or bearing upgrades is easier casting leading to improved accuracy. Some ancillary distance gained is common. The rub is that people don’t do improvements in steps. For example, a dirty, gummed up reel gets super tuned and new bearings and gets substantial gains. A simple deep cleaning would have realized 75% of those gains and should always be the first step. This is the new baseline to compare further modifications against. Different reel models respond differently to modifications too. This also goes unaddressed all too often. Anyone with general or specific questions should feel free to contact me directly or by posting. Hopefully people I’ve dealt with will agree, I’m more apt to under sell than to push something that won’t benefit the customer.

You’re not the first or last to have unrealistic expectations of a reel after all the marketing and internet chatter we get our way.

Grease should only be used to lubricate and preserve parts, never to “silence” reels by masking imperfections or tolerances of manufacturing. Grease on an open application like level winds is a bad idea. The grease collects debris which becomes abrasive. An oil film is best here. Packing drive gears only wastes product and makes future cleaning more difficult. Fast spinning the handle doesn’t tell you a thing. That’s not normal reel use. In general it’s reasonable to expect a reel to develop some level of sound and feel after some use. Without seeing the reel or what you did/ didn’t do I can’t say with certainty whether or not it could be better.

Most of the extra services pertain more to casting reels since the casting is mechanical. I’m always open to inspecting and making recommendations as to what a specific reel would benefit from. Email or call to discuss your specifics if you’d like. Otherwise you can send whatever you have at your convenience.

Line touching the blank doesn’t hurt a thing but the rod in your pic is unacceptable. There should be another guide in between right at the apex of the curve.