Moderate fast action will work on a spinnerbait rod as long as there's enough power and back bone to drive the heavy hook home. Remember slower action doesn't have to mean softer or whippy tip.
Sometimes it's a matter of degree. Sound vs noise. Very few reels operate completely silently especially after all the gobs of factory grease is cleaned out.
Braid use in and of itself is safe. Just use common sense in your rod handling. Avoid actions or movements that end the tip beyond 90* to the rod regardless of line type and you'll be fine.
There should a click washer like the one in the cap only with two legs that insert in the holes in the side plate. The gold click spring sandwiches in between them.
The best compromise I've found is 80w-140 gear oil. It doesn't gum up like grease and stays better than oil. Add a drop occasionally if usecand conditions indicate.
I'll be happy to take care of your reels if given the opportunity. If you send reels provide your screen name here to get 10% off labor. Let me know if you have any questions.
The packaging and lack of proper insurance are to blame more than the carrier. Things happen that's why there's insurance available. Schedule 40 pvc and fully insured is the way to go.
Retailers and manufacturers are understandably tight lipped about such things. Your best bet to get a blank with the same characteristics is to send the rod to a rod builder familiar with the Common Cents System (CCS) have it measured and match it to a new blank. Not being a really unique blank in the large scheme of things it would be easier to just describe to the best of your ability what you'd like in a blank and take suggestions.
I see the logic in the uniformity line of thought but I think you lose out to some degree as no one can be all things. Each brand/ line has models that excel at certain things and others that , not so much.
Stay on the seller to initiate and follow through with the insurance claim process. It's not that hard. If you care to share the details of the breakage I can offer advice as to options for repair. I'd splice it and have a second high performance rod.
Grip change not all that involved in most cases. Changing the seat is a project. Stopping and replacing guides is a lot of labor. To replace a broken guide I get $7.50 for a single foot and $10 for a double foot plus the cost of the guide(s). Do the math and add shipping.
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