Delaware Valley Tackle

Look at the pin on the spool and see if it's bent. If you want to send it in I'll be glad to look into it.

I also prefer the 2500/3000 size reels for bass fishing. Mono/ Fluoro above 8# is easier to handle on the bigger spool but like Jfranco I'd go to braid.

My guess is that oil or grease has migrated into the drag. Upgrade to carbontex is only $8-10

There are any number of solvents that will work. I'm. It familiar with that particular one. Don't over think it. I use the process in my original post every day with good results.

The drag may not be designed to lock down but it seems a little weak in the vid. Hard to say from a distance. If you want to send it in I'll be happy to take a look. Fwiw I recently tried to contact them about another customers reel and 8 messages over two weeks went unanswered.

If you're using backing the joining knot can catch and cause uneven loading.

I agree that the flipping switch is am unnecessary weak link.

It may be ascent simple as something not seated fully. First step is to loosen the cast cap, and take off the palm side cover and spool. Replace them and see if that does it.

Not only is it ok, it's a good idea. Thevrod doesn't know if your in salt water or not.

No it goes at the base of the threads on the side plate and the cap snugs up against it.

Go to the hardware store and grab a rubber o ring to fit the threads the cast control goes on. That should keep the cap adjustment from moving. There was probably one there at some point.

A logical case can be made for several lines for the same application. For me, braid offers the no stretch sensitivity and line management I want. I'll occasionally add a leader for certain conditions. I see the logic in using the stiff Fluoro for semi slack presentations but in my experience I don't think I'm missing out by not going that route.

Line weight markings on reels are just a reference point for spool capacity. Not recommendations per say.

1. PQ 2. Aird 3. Lews laser mg even at $99 the pq is the best value on a feature for feature benefit. I give a nod to the Aird for Daiwa braking.

I would reconsider the split seat on your first attempt. Placement and alignment are extra considerations you may not want to deal with. Ck out AmTacks Aero seat.

You can write anything you want on a rod. Many if not most rods are happiest in a small range like that in actual use. Likewise thevtidcin question will surely cast weights on either or both sides of the posted numbers.

Reels don't cast, rods do. Low quality reels can impede casting though. Braking systems and your preference for one or another make a difference too

Just saw your email. I'll have something for you later this afternoon.

Buy with confidence. Same platform as lews, revos, pq, johnny Morris and others.

^^ a splice like this is how I'd do it.

He said panfish and maybe small bass that's why I suggested the 5 wt, but yes a bass dedicated rod calls for an 8 wt.

Rather than a combo pick up an inexpensive reel but one you can buy spare cartridges for, a mod fast 5wt rod and don't spare the horses on a 5wt forward taper fly line. Tapered leader and tippet.

That's the reel foot. The reel seat is on the rod. Epoxy won't hold that for long I'm afraid. Best bet would have been JB Weld even then its iffy.

X ship is just an extra pinion support bearing. This aids smoothness and arguably longevity but affect on power. 7.1 to 7.7 is an insignificant change and I've seen no evidence of the alloy gears being less durable. Save your money. Longer handle gives you more leverage to crank but doesn't change the power of the reel. Don't forget the rod in this equation. Too light of a power can feel mushy and retrieve feel harder. Ipt, a function ratio, is the best measure of s reels power.

For a quick external wipe down it's fine. Don't let it anywhere near the internals of a reel.