On a fresh water rod, line wt ratings are practically meaningless. The advantages of braid to bass fishing has nothing to do with pound test. Use your drag and common sense and your rods will be fine.
We as consumers would be better off if these manufacturers would work out the bugs and improve upon models and lay off the generations, gimmicks, redundant models etc.
From the looks of it that threaded barrel just cam loose from the blank. Easy fix. If you want to tackle it email or call me and I'll walk you through it.
If i had to guess I'd suspect that the knot between the two 12# lines created a bump and caused the issue. Check that to see that it's as slim a knot as you can get.
If you'd like to send it in, I'll take care of it for you. Provide your screen name with it and I extend a 10% discount to members off the already low price of $22. Postage and parts are extra. Message me or just follow the link to my site.
Mike
I've used some Rodgeeks glass/ carbon composite blanks that are nice. GOOD glass blanks are the best of both worlds. The old Lamiglass SR705 for example. I like mod fast carbon blanks for shallow cranks and popping off weeds
It depends on the way you grip the rod. As I do, with the stem between the middle and ring finger the weight is right at the fulcrum and makes little to no noticeable difference.
Ya a well done build on a quality blank will outshine a poor build on a top end blank. I did a rebuild on an LTB blank that had overly large , poorly spaced guides and it was night and day.
The beauty of the old centrifugal brake system was the set it and forget it. An ultra adjustable cent brake is pointless to me. If you need more, dual breaking is a better system imo.
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