Delaware Valley Tackle

You're way over thinking this. Any of those rods will fish bottom baits within their weight range well in addition to jerk baits imo

Welcome and thanks for sharing. Let me know when those all need cleaning. I'll block out a day or two or twenty. Lol

Given your trepidation over this I suggest you just fish it hard for a season and send for a deep cleaning.

The core is more refined if you have the $, but with a little tlc the chronarch can be made to fish nearly, if not as well.

Its normal for these to get louder after use and deep cleaning. Right out of the box I'd lean toward swapping it.

A chatter bait is more like a spinnerbait than a crank. I don't see the advantage of the slower action here. I throw swim jigs, chatter baits and keitech style swimmers on the same Med fast rod.

Smoooth Drags carbontex has a better weave and texture imo and the cost is pretty reasonable $8-$10 for most models. Obviously is difference is carbon vs carbon but dartanium and felt washers should go right in the circular file as far as I'm concerned.

Your question makes perfect sense, as there are no standards. I don't know the answer in this particular case. Best you can do is ask here for first hand accounts for the same reason.

It's common for these reels to develop some sound once they free up but not necessarily noise. I'd have to see it to diagnose.

It depends on where, when and how you like to fish. A smallie chaser up north might want 5 spinning rigs and where as someone probing the southern grass mats might use 5 various casting rigs. For versatility I'd start with Roadwarriors basic 3 rod system and supplement with a ML spinning rig and a Flipping stick.

Throw your baits with hook etc on a scale. You might be surprised at how hefty they actually are. Chances are your regular reels will work just fine.

Pq/carbonlite share tooling and parts with lews and pure fishing brands. Rods are outsourced all over as far as I can tell

I'd go with a mh/ mod fast for all but the spinnerbaits. I throw them on a worm/jig rod.

It also varies by rod brand as there is no standard. Labels and specs are all subjective.

I use leaders in some circumstances none of which involve visibility.

MSRP from a reputable retailer is one of their own requirements. You shouldn't need a receipt. Screen shot of a pp or copy of check should suffice as a purchase agreement. You can collect but need your ducks in a row.

For my personal use I reserve the highest modulus blanks for the finesse applications.

The KR concept is for spinning guides, a rapid choke similar to the Microwave setup. I zero advantage in the microwave set for a casting rod. My default on a bass rod is a size 6 double foot stripper followed by a 5 then 4.5 runners. A few runners will be belly guides. The step down in size is for visual effect it has no bearing on performance. If the reel is high or wide I might go to an 8 stripper and push it out a little. I start at 19" from reel face then static test. On this heavier rod I might go 8/6/5.5. No need for double foot all the way.

Graphite isn't plastic and not all graphite is created equal. That said, the deals available on the Tatula variants are hard to pass up.

What reel?

They'd be gears from daiwa from another model. I'd have to look into it to see what would fit. I wouldn't be surprised if someone that's done it chimes in.

I doubt they spent any time diagnosing. It's impossible to tell without seeing it prior to repair. From what they replaced I assume it was grinding? As long as it works now don't fret. I'm sure it's no system wide problem or we'd hear lots about it.

If the M will load to cast the bait it'll be fine. I know none of mine would but all you can do is try.

Right, hence "if the presentation calls for it..." the OP mentioned just to attach a leader, which can be done with a simple knot 99% of the time.

Use swivels only if the presentation calls for it not just to avoid learning to tie a good Albright