Delaware Valley Tackle

Check the worm gear as well. They're cheap enough i prefer to change them as a set if you have the skill and inclination to tear into it that far.

Lews and ABU are built in the same factory. Lews tend to run a tad cheaper on a feature for feature basis. Many parts are interchangeable.

It has nothing to do with the number of bearings. It's just the difference in reels. You'll just need to experiment to get them setup right.

I don't think baits look "like" anything to a bass. They don't have the capacity to reason or think. They run off pure instinct. Anything with a profile, action, size and color to maybe be edible will draw strikes.

You've likely lost one or more spacers from the cap. Should be easy enough.

It depends on which Daiwa model. Settle on an application and budget then look at different manufacturers models.

There are different grades of each material so don't go strictly on that. When you hear about graphite frames flexing it's not from casting anything. 1/2-3oz is a big range so you're looking at a dedicated rod so why not a reel too. I'd go with a basic round reel for the heavy stuff. An Ambassaduer or Cardiff are affordable.

How long the knobs,handle or spool for that matter spin, means nothing at all in regard to the reels qualify or fitness. It equates to kicking the tires on a car. Check the normal operation (release, engagement, drag, adjustments) fish them hard to rule out any warranty issues then have them serviced in the off season.

The only way a handle can loosen is a missing retainer or mis assembly when installing the handle (drag too loose etc). A quarter turn to snug the nut is plenty. Be sure not to cross thread the nut in the very beginning.

Just curious; what's the advantage of fishing a spinning rod upside down with a casting reel? The power and action of the rod don't change. Why not build a casting rod to compliment your spinning setup ?

Sorry, I just can't help myself. ?

Quality bearings in key areas are critical. Total count means little. Many high quality reels have been built without handle knob bearings for example.

Hot sauce oil is ok but the grease cakes up too easily.

Your risking break offs. The whole guide needs replacing.

For best results shift your focus from product to process. How you clean and oil the bearings, and the whole reel for that matter will have greater impact than the most expensive oil.

There is no magic in any lubricant. The metal type shouldn't affect adhesion. Clean the parts well and apply any quality, application appropriate grease and you'll be fine.

Very nice. You have some hrs into that.

I reserve the highest modulus blanks for the most finesse techniques. In this case the ML.

Don't over do it or the drag won't back off and nothing to gain on the other end. I'd stack them dry expecting the metal mating surfaces to slip first.

Try quantum direct but a lot of parts for those older reels are out of stock. Smoothdrag is a good alternative but I'm pretty sure you'll need to stack carbontex washers to get the right thickness.

They have several different ones. Any light oil will suffice. There's no magic in any of them. In the world of lubricants a reel isn't that demanding or specialized.

For what part of the reel? Spool bearings? If so the bantam or any other light oil will work fine. One small drop at a time. Oust, rem oil even sewing machine oil will work just fine.

Actually grinding or just more sound? The light weight Shimano's tend to get noisy once they free up. No way to diagnose sight unseen

I'm not hard sell by any stretch but those are not novice friendly reels to learn on. The member cost is <$20 if you'd like to go that route. If not , my advice is to limit DIY to brushing off and oiling the worm gear n pulling the spool wiping off what you can reach.

It could be marketing or more likely a manufacturing convenience or concern of some kind. An inch one way or another in almost seven feet is of little to no consequence. The differences in material, components and grip are all that matter