Delaware Valley Tackle

Even when tag-teamed

That may not fit over existing guides if that's what you have in mind. New build installation is easy.

It depends on the specifics there's no fixed answer. There's a wealth of information available regarding custom rod building. Google is your friend!

The microwave from AT performs well and is a no brainer for setup. Good choice for newbies (and others )

Dual speed reels have no logical place in bass fishing. They're a pain mechanically too.

Contact me via email or phone and I'll give you the likely cause. Mike

All excellent suggestions. One more for the mix a little outside the box: rodgeeks c470xs. A mh but real soft fast tip.

Yes. Drag grease ONLY on drags.

white lithium mp grease works especially if you're consistent with service. Marine grease is more water resistant and just as readily available so that's what I generally recommend. The main thing is to do something rather than nothing

High ipt is handy when dropshotting and a smallie rockets toward the surface.

The hot sauce oil works fine it's just annoying. The grease on the other hand is garbage. It tends to cake up and makes a mess

Gun oil should be light enough for bearings. The other may be as well. Depends on what it is.

What bait and reel where you using? Cranking deep with too fast a reel can be tiring.

A slower action won't compensate if the fish doesn't have the bait in its mouth. I'd rather have the power available to drive home the heavy hook at distance. Fast or mod fast work depending on the the rods other characteristics. Ww2farmer makes a good point about frogging more open cover. That's a whole other deal imo

MHX blanks are a good value. In a frog rod I look for power obviously, but more tip than a flipping stick to load and cast better. The 905 looks good.

The reel seat goes where it belongs and the grip, regardless of style goes behind it. A split grip is nothing more than a full grip with a piece taken out. If you need help placing a reel seat in general we can help you out with that too

The rod plays a much larger role in casting , presenting, hooking and landing fish than the reel does. Whether or not that translates into spending more depends on the circumstances.

I don't mean to come off harsh or dismissive but doing stuff like that to a reel doesn't tell you a thing and could make a matter worse if there is one. Unless it doesn't engage properly or feel right during normal operation you don't have anything to worry about. My offer stands if you want to contact me I'll do whatever I can to help.

If there's nothing wrong with the gen3 keep fishing it.

Email or call me and I'll see what I can do. We're all busy this time of year but I can do better than 8 weeks. What you heard was the pinion slipping on the drive pin. I doubt the gear teeth are compromised but I'll need to see it.

The Daiwa brakes are a firm of msg brake but I put them in a class separate from other msg brakes with out the inductor. Outside of daiwa I don't care for mag only brakes. Regardless of the reel or brake style you choose setup, practice and skill are what will make the difference.

If the rod loads and casts properly it will work fine. Should do well ripping Traps too. All you can do is try. Specs are too subjective to tell for sure otherwise.

And if you're referring to the reduction guides, larger guides were used in the past to achieve the required height. Smaller guides can now be used IF they are a high frame model. My preferred spinning setup is a 2500 size reel with braid.

The difference between those examples is 4/10 of a spool rotation per turn of the handle, meaningless in application. Those techniques don't require anything special reel wise. It's all personal preference.

Exactly. It's all so subjective and it depends on the over all rod what it will work well for. only fishing it will tell you for sure.