Teal101

I flip or Pitch 90% of the time now. If I do cast, it's usually a lob cast. Learning to pitch has been a game changer in my fishing. Most of my fish are caught within 30ft of me.

I live in WA state and can relay some info about Portland. For fishing the opportunities are endless. You have the Salmon runs during the spring, summer and fall. World class King salmon and Steelhead on the Columbia. Speaking of the Columbia, theres world class Smallie fishing as well. If you dont believe me, google it. The lower Columbia is regarded as one of the greatest unknown smallie fisheries around. Lots of fish, and big fish. State record is over 8lbs. 100 fish days are common. Walleye fishing is superb as well. The state record is 19lbs and it came from the Columbia. Lots of lakes around the area with Perch and other Panfish. Theres also offshore Salmon, Halibut, Lingcod and Tuna. If you venture far enough south on the coast you will run into stripers as well. Hunting is great as well. You can hunt in WA and OR from Portland, double the opportunity for a monster muley or blacktail. There are whitetail here and there. Elk hunting is great as well in Oregon. Theres lots of opportunities for waterfowl on the Columbia and surrounding area. Weather is mild for the PNW. Doesnt get too hot nor too cold. It does rain, but nothing like Seattle. You may see snow. The area is gorgeous. Astoria is a short drive away and a beautiful town with lots of history. The oregon coast has a highway that runs down the entire length called the Scenic Byway. Lots of cool stuff to go do and see. Traffic in Portland sucks, bad. Lots of congestion on the freeways. It is also a very liberal town. Lots of tree huggers and such. Lots of adult entertainment if you're into that sort of thing. Being on the I-5 corridor you're not very far from most of the big towns in Oregon and Washington as well. I believe it's about 2-1/2 hours to Seattle.

I used the TiSiC K guides on my last big build. It was for an 8' XH Musky rod. I wanted a good strong guide material for fishing 80lb braid all day with heavy lures and big fish. I went K because of the braid as well, not that casdting setups have much issue with tangles. This rod was going to be heavy so I opted for the Ti, every little gram counts! When building UL, L, and ML rods, especially in finesse applications where sensitivity is a must, i wouldnt use anything other than TiSiC. Every gram added to the rod deadens the feeling, and when you're fishing a rod with the same diameter as a spaghetti noodle I want every bit I can get. I do use the SS/Alconites for cheaper builds. Look at the following blanks MHX HM-SJ782-MHX MHX HM-SJ842-MHX St.Croix 3S66MLF St.Croix 3S69MLXF Phenix UMBX-S700M-B

Get a ML blank, look at the St.Croix SCIII lineup. You can always trim a 7' rod a bit to get it down to 6'-10" or so, always trim the butt. Ditch the recoils and wavespins and go with some Fuji Alconite or the SiC guides. Personally I dont use anything other than TiSiC on all of my rods now. I do like the alconites for a budget setup though.

I have CX and CXX spooled up on other reels. If the C21 was anywhere as strong as the CX and CXX I could understand the memory being it is stiffer line. It however is not comparable in abrasion resistance in my findings. I run 6lb CX on my ML trout spinning outfit with little issue. CXX is for sure a casting only line.

I havent had the issue with CX and CXX. Those are two completely different beasts. My CX has had no issues like that, nor has my CXX. P-line states that C21 bridges the gap between the two lines, which I find very difficult to believe since it is half the cost of either. I'd rather ue CX. I havent fished a Mono line in years so I cant compare. I always us P-line copolymer nylon lines, braid, and fluoro. I guess I should be more specific. I've always used the term wind knot for knots formed in the line while casting. This may have been an issue with line twist, although I have not had the same issues while using P-Line fluoroclear. I think a lot of it had to do with the amount of memory the line had. For me, the $5 savings over P-Line fluoroclear is not worth it, I've never really had issues with abrasion resistance with it. This C21 was terrible, in my opinion. For the recorod I have been fishing the P-Line Fluoroclear on a spinning setup for the past two weeks for Crappie and have had excellent results compared to C21.

My review posted on TT forums, "For $5 for 300 yds I was not expecting much. I picked up a filler spool of this in 8lb to put on my new Shimano Sahara reel. I paired the reel with a cheap Shimano Scimitar M 7' Fast rod for throwing lighter and weightless plastics. This morning I went out in the crisp 35* weather with a 6 mph wind. I decided to start by throwing a watermelon 5" Senko weightless wacky rigged. Upon tying on the hook I noticed the line had severe memory, especially for just having spooled it up the night before! Knot tying was mildly difficult as the line liked to coil. I experienced 3 wind knots within two hours of fishing, all needed cutting and retying. The line strength was better than expected and I was able to snap at snags and tug on the line hard with no issues. It does have a good bit of stretch as well. It was quite transparent in the water. I wasnt able to hook any fish and give it a good fish fight test. I cant say I'll buy another spool, but at only $5 I cant say it was a waste. Recap, Pros: Cheap Seemingly as strong as rated Decent transparency Cons: Stretchy Bad memory Prone to wind knots" "Took it out last night for 2-1/2 hours. Temps were in the mid 40's to upper 30's with a slight wind at my back. Water temp was in the 40's as well. Same setup as before, 7' M Shimano Scimitar paired with a Shimano Sahara 2500. Was casting some heavy jigs in the 1/2-3/4 oz range, trying to combat the current. It was kind of tough to get to the bottom as the lures were swept sideways quite quick. The dam right above us was releasing a lot of water creating nasty current. Again I ran into issues with stretch. Bouncing on rocks I could feel a lot of give in the line. The next issue was abrasion resistance, or lack thereof. After 20 or so casts my line was visibly nicked and cut from the rocks. In fact got I a slight snag, popped the rod to release it and the line snapped. Reeled in and noticed it broke clean off and the line up above the break was rough and beat up. I would have to retie obnoxiously often to retain any strength in the rocks with this line. I also threw P-Line Fluoro Clear in the 12lb test running a 1/2 oz Rat-L-Trap on the bottom just as much as the jig and this line withstood the bottom much better. Barely any nicks in the line after just as many casts as with C21. The C21 does transmit the bottom OK to the rod, I was able to feel weeds and rocks, but when using such a cheap rod it is hard to tell much more. My crank rod is a new Loomis GL2 and it was much better at feeling the bottom, although irrelevant in the line comparison. So as before, I cant recommend this line unless price is really an issue. I would also stay away from using this line where rocks may be an issue."

P-Line Fluoroclear 4lb is what I used. I used to use Yo-Zuri Hybrid on all my outfits, but found the P-Line to be more supple with less memory.

ifishing lite is free. Theres a fly fihsing version and a saltwater version as well. I have them all.

Where I fish they get that deep brown color gorging on craws. It's pretty normal.

The WDFW releases Tiger Musky in certain lakes to help control the carp population. They are invasive and destroying a lot of our lakes. Some lakes are planted with sterile grass carp to help control the weed problems in them. Most have the asian carp in them and they need to be thinned. They're a huge problem up here, muddying the water and displacing game fish.

My couch.

P-line Floroclear. No as stiff as the Yo-Zuri Hybrid, but excels in all the same areas. It's generally a lot easier to find that Yo-Zuri Hybrid is as well.

As Needed. I use 100% co-polymer right now. A mix of Yo-Zuri Hybrid, P-Line CXX, P-Line CX, and P-Line Floroclear. I find I re-spool at the beginning of every year it seems. The line generally has enough memory on it by then that it effects my casting and backlashes. I'm going to switch out my last spool of Yo-Zuri Hybrid for braid soon and will replace that as needed. I found P-lines co-poly lines arent as stiff as the Yo-Zuri stuff and cast much nicer imo. The CX has nasty nasty memory and I wont buy anymore of that.

Tackle Tour compared it to the JDM Pixy. It's quite similar.