Marty

Crankbaits and spinnerbaits. I also wouldn't rule out topwaters either.

I would think that the Bassmaster article could influence the demand for this or other items. Just because it's $30 doesn't mean it can't perform satisfactorily. Most of the rods I've owned are inexpensive and I've been satisfied. I'm not going to claim that it's the same as a rod costing 10 times more, but then, I drive a Toyota Corolla and I doubt that it's less effective than, say, a Lexus in getting me to where I want to go. My rods cast lures, detect bites, set hooks and fight fish to my satisfaction. When somebody proves to me that a $250 rod will get more fish than a $40 or that a $20 crankbait will catch more than a $5, I might change my thinking.

Go for it. Can't predict what any given body of water holds, but I have had personal experience with catching quality bass from shore fishing ponds. You can generally use the same variety of lures that can be used from a boat. Go ahead, make your Dad proud!!

I think that'll work out well. You've got representatives from four important lure categories: topwaters, crankbaits, soft plastics and spinnerbaits. From my earliest days in fishing I'd ask myself a question after I caught a fish: "How many other lures would've caught that fish if they'd been in the same place at the same time?" My answer was "a lot", which, of course, couldn't be proved. I'd avoid drawing too many conclusions based on this year's numbers vs. last year's because of the many variables.

I throw away the hook hangers and replace them with screw eyes and split rings. I also recommend removing the screws (one at a time) that hold the metal lip and putting a drop or two of super glue in the hole and putting the screw back in.

Don't know a thing about either reel. But if you think you're sacrificing some reel quality to save the $40, then you might be always questioning yourself as to whether you should've bought the Supreme. And if that is true and you are planning to keep the reel for a long time, then I'd bite the bullet and spend the extra $40 now and you'll never have to second-guess yourself.

I would disagree with that about the Jitterbug and just about every other lure as well. I've fished lots of ponds and lots of lakes and the same lures work in both. When a bass sees that Jitterbug gurgling across the surface it is not aware of the size of the water he's in. Not only do I enjoy it, it's been far and away my favorite topwater for 10+ years. It's accounted for my largest pike, largest smallie and 2nd-largest bass. Just four days ago I caught this 5.75# on one. Note to JCMAN: I was on a 1700-acre lake.

You've got spinners and small cranks, two lure types that I would want to have available for ultralight. I'd add 1/16 oz. jigheads and some 2" grubs.

Good lure as far as attracting fish, but the hooks tend to tangle. Check to see that they're not tangled before you cast.

Ribbits are my lure of choice in that category. I use a 4/0 extra-wide gap hook. I'd make sure you're using a big enough hook and a rod with enough backbone. If you're using both, then I don't know what to say other than reviewing your hooksetting technique.

Add to that Joe's younger brother, Dom DiMaggio, who played for the Red Sox. He died about the same time as Daly.

Are you failing to get bites while fishing partners are getting bites on the same lures? If yes, I don't know what to say. If no, I'd guess that you haven't been using them in the right time and place. Keep at it, persistence usually pays off. P.S. This is a long shot, but I used to have a problem with negative odors. This can be particularly bad with skirted baits because the skirt material absorbs and holds odors. Try a little scent, such as garlic, and see if that makes a difference. One never knows. It made a big difference with me.

I think a good guideline is to use a hook with a gap at least double the diameter of the plastic. That way it has room to get through the plastic and into the fish's jaw.

I use braid a lot, including in clear water. There's no doubt in my mind that they see it well, as wild creatures that aren't on their way to extinction have to be aware of things in their environment. The more important question is how does braid's visibility affect bites. I don't know and probably never will, but I fish it confidently without leaders based on nothing more than my gut feelings.

I've seen bike racks on buses here.

I'd put the trailer on, then the trailer hook on top. But personally I've had problems with grubs tangling with the hook, although straight-tailed trailers haven't caused any problems.

I've never used them, but over the course of many years I've seen smallies caught on a huge variety of crankbaits, so there's no reason in the world why this shouldn't be a successful bait.

No, you're not crazy, you just don't like Ribbits. Of the three frogs/toads I've used, Ribbits are my choice. To each his own.

There's more to it than that. By that logic, every new thread on a Revo, Yo-Zuri line or 100 other things would get locked.

Agreed, and walleye will also bite so-called bass baits. They don't know the difference any more than bass do.

To me, that is the very essence of buying/using a canoe. I chose the roominess and stability of extra width and gave up paddling efficiency. That works for me and the places I fish. I've not had an interest in a motor.

I fish topwaters from spring through fall. There's no set temperature, but they seem to work for me when the water is 55°+. You're a lot further south than I am and I don't know if there's such a thing as water getting too warm for topwaters.

Exactly. Those overhead shots were great!!

Lots of good advice here. If I were to limit myself to one suggestion, it would be to move around and cover as much water as possible until you know the lake well enough to concentrate on the best spots. There may very well be excellent spots that you'd never figure out otherwise. I'd also repeat what's already been said, don't rule out any lure types just because you're on the shore.

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