Jrob78

I have a few rods I use but they are all custom, my favorite is a 7'3" MH Lamiglas blank but I don't remember what the actual numbers are and they don't make it anymore. I don't use spinning gear unless I absolutely have to, which isn't often. I think a 5" Senko weighs like 3/8oz so something with a fast action in that weight range will work. I just like having a decent amount of power to set a large hook on a long cast. If you fish them wacky rigged with a small open hook you can get away with a lighter rod.

Senkos are heavy and cast like a rocket, I use MH casting gear and usually 14 pound fluoro. Nothing finesse about them weight wise.

I fish my Daiwa reels with loose spool tension, a decent amount of side to side play, and the brakes set pretty high. The high brakes control the spool on start up and then increase when I bomb a cast. Often times the reel will start to backlash mid cast and the brakes will pull it back together before the lure hits the water. I get really good casting distance this way. The reels feel loose but still under control.

Abu Garcia, Lews, Pflueger and some BPS reels made by the same company in Korea. They aren't Abu Garcia based reels, they are Doyo reels, that's why they're all similar and some even share parts.

22 strands per tab sounds about right to me too. After about 4 tabs it gets pretty hard to work with. Living Image is 10 tabs for around $2.70 with discounts if you buy a certain amount. Other styles are different prices. It's a lot fun to play with. I recommend the Naked Baits skirt Expander if you're going to make very many and use bands.

I like glass and fluorocarbon for pretty much all cranking but it's personal preference, use whatever you like.

Skirt tabs are cheap, I buy mine at fishingskirts.com. You can make them with however many strands and in whatever colors you want.

This thread is from 2013, that website is most likely long gone.

They actually make 100 size Millionaires, I think they are JDM only but definitely bass size. They cost a little more than the standard Millionaire though.

MH means absolutely nothing when comparing rods from different manufacturers, so the answer to your question is, depends.

Thank you. Sorry about jacking your thread @BigBass'n_Harrison that wasn't my intention.

Lol, I did look up fulcrum and it said, "the point on which an object balances." The weight of the reel does change the balance of the rod, it's like adding weight in the middle of one side of the seesaw instead of at the seat of the seesaw. It changes it but not nearly as effectively as adding weight to the butt. Any weight you add anywhere on a rod is going to change where the rod balances.

Pink Flukes are great too.

The fulcrum is the point where the rod is perfectly balanced. If your hand were the fulcrum, it wouldn't be tip heavy it would be perfectly balanced. Any weight added on either side of the fulcrum moves the fulcrum, therefor a heavier reel moves the fulcrum closer to the butt end of the rod. As I said, I don't think an ounce or 2 where the reel goes is going to make that much difference. If you don't think a reel helps balance a rod, hold a rod with no reel exactly where you would normally hold it. Then put a reel on and do it again, see which one is more tip heavy.

They are really nice, I'm excited to try them out.

The balance point on a tip heavy rod is in front of the reel so a heavier reel moves the balance point closer to the butt end. That doesn't change based on where you hold the rod. I don't know that an ounce or 2 at the reel will really make a whole lot of difference in felt tip heaviness but a lot of people put heavier reels on tip heavy rods. To really balance a rod you need to add weight to the butt.

Helps shift the balance back toward the butt end.

People always recommend Senkos and t-rigs on threads like these but I disagree. People with no fishing experience aren't going to understand how to feel the bite, line watch or how to properly set the hook if/when they do realize they are getting bit. Especially if they are going to be using spincaster combos with rods that probably aren't very sensitive and may not be very stiff. A wacky rig with a small, sharp, open hook might be a little easier. I would opt for moving baits, single hooked or trebles, where they can reel and the fish will mostly hook themselves. Live bait under bobbers are good for novice anglers too. I could be completely wrong but I have seen too many children and inexperienced anglers have trouble with all aspects of worm fishing.

I use 20# Tatsu on my flipping set ups, it handles great. I've never used AbrazX but highly recommend Tatsu, especially in the heavier weights.

188 pages and 10 years of rod and reel combos.

A few BFS jigs, Dark Sleepers and SKT's to replace some I lost last spring. Oh, and a Lucky Craft Chinu O Tiny crank to try out.

I've got a few Huntin P's, Lil Hunters and Fudds. I need to take them out to the pool and see how they run. It makes me a little hesitant that they are so widely available, it seems like the really good balsa baits are usually hard to come by. I have so much confidence in WECs that I don't fish some of the other balsa baits I have very much. Thanks for the input.

What are your thoughts on PH Customs balsa baits? I have a handful but really haven't used them much.

The switching hands thing is silly. Anyone who has been casting right handed and then switching the rod to the left hand for any period of time does it without thinking. Your arms are extended immediately after a 2 handed cast so the length of the handle doesn't get in the way during the switch. This is a non-issue.

Think of it like technique specific rods, the labels are just a suggestion.