Jrob78

Also, 17# is pretty heavy for light t-rigs. The heavier the line, the harder it will be to cast and the more memory it will have. Next time you buy fluoro, (if there is a next time) get a better brand and get it in 12# test. With KVD L&L you should have no problems.

I like the Yellow Magic, Zell Pop and Lucky Craft S8 Popper.

They're 2 completely different things. KVD cranks are shallow square bills made of plastic. Most Rapala cranks, (DT line) are standard round bill cranks, offered in depths from shallow to deep and are made of balsa. Both are good baits and have their place but are apples and oranges.

For the baits you will be throwing, I would go with the MH rod. Especially if the rods are specified to have a "medium or medium fast" action. To me, that indicates the action will be slower than a traditional fast. You could probably get by with a med power but a mh will allow for better hook sets. In general, I like a 7'-7'3" MHF for most t-rigs, Senkos and Flukes. I have that particular "medium action, medium power" Micro guide Bucoo and I wouldn't use it for t-rigs or flukes. I like it for small poppers, small cranks and small jerkbaits. It doesn't have the power for setting large worm hooks and the action is slower than I like for soft plastics. Your mileage may very though.

I know for a fact that some of the first A-rig rods were built on existing swimbait blanks. I think that rod would work well for your needs and would be a lot better than using your spinnerbait rod.

I know you said your guide inserts are good and I assume this is how you checked them but it never hurts to repeat it for anyone else who might read this. Get Q-tips and run them all the way around the guide inserts, if there are any cracks the Q-tip will leave strands of cotton behind. If there are any cracks, it can wreak havoc on line, especially thin braid. You might also try pulling off 10yds or so of line in case it got nicked up from fishing or from wind knots.

Looks like you're wearing her shirt in your avatar, I don't see what the big deals is.

I've gotten to where I try to buy multiples of just a few colors. I like to have a shad, a bluegill and a bright, normally chart/black, blue/chart or firetiger. The H20 baits are great, especially for the money. They have excellent paint jobs and decent components. They also make a silent version now. The KVD cranks and XCalibur XCS cranks are also very good for the money.

I've worn Oakley's for years and have always been happy with them. Ive probably had 8 pair over the past 15 years, I wear them everyday and they always hold up well. I take care of my glasses though. The polarized lenses do cost more but are well worth it. I am considering Costas for my next glasses purchase though. Get a good pair of glasses, take care of them and they will take care of you. Don't skimp on glasses.

I like to start the morning throwing a Yellow Magic.

That might be a River2Sea Bubble Popper. There are several companies that make that style of popper with the gill slits.

There are other stake out poles that will work but the PNP is the best for the job, IMO. To me, it's worth the money. I've heard rumors that a 10' telescopic PNP is in the works.

The KVD'S are great hooks. If you don't like EWG trebles, try the Gamakatsu short shank, round bend trebles with the "Magic Eye." I use the KVD'S most of the time but the Gami's are awesome hooks and sharper than the Mustads.

I own reels from many of the major brands, I like variety. I have more Daiwas and Shimanos than anything else though. I really like the Pflueger Patriarch and the XT is an awesome reel. I'm not a big fan of Revos but I do have a couple. All that said, Daiwa is by far my favorite with Shimano coming in 2nd.

I have to agree with you. I've never experienced a decrease in action or a loss of control with loop knots and topwater baits. I really like loop knots with small poppers. I like to fish them with a combination of pops and a tight walk the dog action, a loop knot really helps the bait come alive.

X2

I fish finesse worms t-rigged, weightless more often than weighted. I let the worm sink to the bottom and dead stick it or let sink down a foot or three and give it a few gentle twitches. Finesse worms really come alive with a light wire hook, light line and soft twitches. You have to be a vigilant line watcher for this technique but it's a great summertime option.

The Curado E Series reels are basically the exact same as the Chronarch E Series reels. They are great workhorse reels and $135 is a good price on a new one. I don't have any experience with the Lexa but all reports I've read have been favorable.

The Boomerang Tool is awesome!

I agree with you 100%. I've always wondered why you would fish one of those pre-made rigs. Not only would the fish feel the weight but it would also make bite detection that much harder. With a traditional c-rig you're still connected directly to your bait, via a small swivel and the weight is independent.

The main thing I would recommend when buying a casting reel is to get one with an aluminum frame. In my experience, graphite framed reels, (Black Max, Silver Max, Pro Max, Shimano Caenan, various Pinnacles...etc) won't last as long as one with an aluminum frame. I would get one combo now, casting or spinning, and save up for another later. Spending $250 on one combo will be cheaper in the long run because you won't have to replace it as quickly. Buy decent quality gear from the start instead of cheaper gear that you won't be happy with in a year.

Those are double foot guides. They should be a little tougher than single foot guides. They also might have larger rings than the single foot guides.

I prefer Fluke style baits on mine. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination though. They can be very productive baits.

A 10" worm with 1/4oz weight, weighs a heck of a lot more than 1/4oz.

I would email W&M and tell them exactly what rod you have. Often times, rod companies will send you a new tip top free of charge. Going through them will be the easiest way to get a matching guide in the right size. You can use a hot melt tip glue to put the new one on. You might have to look online to find the tip glue, it shouldn't cost more than a few dollars.