Jrob78

I think the graphite Powell you listed would be good for the stuff you want to do. Powell makes a good rod and a med-mh/mod fast graphite rod is pretty versatile. As long as you don't go with glass, a cranking rod should be good. Some people like a shorter rod for jerkbaits but that's personal preference.

Do a google search for those sites listed, they are all JDM parts or tackle sites. Also, check Ichiban and Plat, don't know the full extension but they are Japanese tackle stores that sell to the US. The JDM Revos are selling in the US now. Several US tackle sites have some of the models for sale now with more coming in the future.

I've only handled them in the store but they seem really nice. The build quality was good and the rods were very light. The reel seat looked to be the same one, or similar, to the seats Daiwa uses on many of their high end rods. If I needed a rod in the $150 range, the Tatula would be what I bought.

Hair jigs are great for largemouths too, especially in the cooler months. I don't see why they wouldn't work for spots a well.

Glass rods, at least all the ones I've ever used, are very whippy. They are good for crankbaits because they absorb the drag of the bait and because you just reel a crankbait in. Glass rods aren't stiff enough to properly work a jerkbait. "Swimbait" is a very broad term. The only "swimbaits" I might consider using a glass rod for would be the very small 3-4" jointed baits that don't weigh much, I don't throw those though. Anything else is going to require a faster action and a much stiffer blank.

I like glass for a lot of my cranking but I don't like it for much else. I wouldn't use a glass rod for jerkbaits or any kind of swimbaits.

Owner Hyper Wire Split Rings are definitely the way to go for quality split rings. Barlow's sales some heavy duty stainless steel split rings that would be great for adding weight to jerkbaits.

You're new to fishing, why make it more complicated than it needs to be? Spool up with mono and be done with it. You don't need to worry about tying good leader knots until you are at least experienced enough to know why you need a leader. Just fish and have fun, you can get into the minutia later.

This thread is funny. Don't pretend like you know what percentage your drag is set at if you haven't actually measured it or if you don't even know what it means. I set mine by feel and adjust on the fly. I rarely catch a fish large enough to put too much strain on 12-20 lb fluoro or copoly.

If you're the type of person who gets upset when they lose a lure or won't fish a lure in the best spots for fear of hanging up, Megabass (or any other high end baits) aren't for you. You need to be able and willing to fish an expensive bait in the same cover you would fish a cheap bait, otherwise the bait is hurting you and you aren't going to catch as many fish. Plus, if losing a $20 lure is going to ruin your day, what's the point?

http://www.bassresource.com/fishing-gear-tips/

Yeah, not even close, but that's obvious if you've ever casted one. A 5" GY Senko weighs right around 10.8 grams, or just a hair over 3/8oz.

I didn't say anything about not believing your answer. An average weight would be a good idea if this was for anything important. I weighed several Ol Monsters and they were all a little different.

A 10" Power Worm weighs 11.6 grams, or a little over 3/8oz. A 10.5" Ol Monster weighs 11 grams and a 10" Rage Tail Anaconda weighs 14 grams, or 1/2oz.

I'll pull some out and weigh them on my digital scale when I get home.

That's the key for me too. I like the looks of custom cork grips better but I'm cool with either for fishing, as long as the eva is hard.

A cranking stick is completely different than a mag bass casting rod. The weight ranges change from rod to rod. It really is a non-issue. The only thing you can really judge by the power rating is the M is going to be lighter than the MH and the MH is going to be lighter than the H. Don't get too caught up in what the numbers say, they're just estimates given by the manufacturer.

Agree, you can always buy a CI4, they're still making them!

Most people don't have a moderate rod that can handle that much weight though. Instead of buying a new rod, some people try to make due with what they have. Many times that's a swimbait rod, an A-rig rod or even a flipping stick.

A lot of guys are using their A-rig rods to throw the 10xd. I would hate to throw it on a traditional crankbait rod.

I meant you should get a Tatula rod and a Tatula reel. They should go together perfectly and will fit in your budget.

I would check out the Daiwa Tatula rods and reels. I got to play with them the other day and I came away very impressed. It would make a sweet combo and not too expensive.

I'm a big fan of the Roboworm Rebarb hooks.

X2 You can make a fluke skitter across the top or dive down when twitched. A heavier hook, like WW2 mentioned, will help act as a keel and add a little weight. Weightless Flukes are one of my go to baits in the summer. I prefer 5" Bass Assassin's though.

Looks good man!