Frogman

I am needing to cover a factory flush mount on a Bass Cat Pantera. I was just wondering what material some of you have used to cover a hole like this. Also any tips you have on making it look as good as possible, please share. My plan is to cover the flush mount and use a Balzout mount to center (as close as possible) an EliteTI2 12 on my console.

I am about to purchase a Lowrance Elite Ti2 unit. I have been running the old HB 997C so I don't know much about the new Lowrance's yet. I was wondering about the C MAP US Inland pre loaded maps. Are they comparable to Navionics? I would go to the store and try to play with the demo, but that doesn't really seem to be a good option right now. Thanks

Guys I can't thank you enough for the wealth of information that has been put out of this thread. I will absolutely admit that I have always considered what you guys call "cover" to be "structure". I knew there was a lot of knowledge here and that's why I made the original post. I have literally been reanalyzing everything about my situation due to this thread. Also, Buck Perry and his book have been referenced so many times that I have already ordered a copy from Ebay. I am anxious to give this a read. I am headed out to fish all this "new structure" I found on my map! Thanks guys!

This is the ultimate goal. Identifying these waters and learning to maximize their potential. I am fishing a 41000 acre man made reservoir. I can make a lot of assumptions by looking at the lay of the land as it enters the water, but without GPS and mapping systems, it would be a nightmare to locate these more productive waters. I have a lot of respect for the old timers that did it with none of this technology!!!! We are truly blessed to have all of these tools at our fingertips.

So if I see suspended fish at 10-12 ft, I should be fishing nearby structure in that range. That is very interesting. I had no idea that it took bass so long to acclimate to different depths. I knew there was a process but I didn't know it was that involved.

Not to be snarky, but, "No you're not." Points and humps ARE structure. Whatever you're looking for on them isn't 'structure.' Terminology matters. This is insightful.... I have been really focused on finding brushpiles, rockpiles, and things like that on humps and points rather than thinking of them as the actual structure that the fish are relating to. With that being said, I could fish thoroughly from the outside in of the point or hump. I've literally written off barren points with no structure. I've been focused in on rocky points and points I know have rockpiles. I haven't even checked up at a point with barren ground. With all of these posts considered, I should consider any point with access to deep water as a viable option until eliminated. Not to be snarky, but, "No you're not." Points and humps ARE structure. Whatever you're looking for on them isn't 'structure.' Terminology matters. This is insightful.... I have been really focused on finding brushpiles, rockpiles, and things like that on humps and points rather than thinking of them as the actual structure that the fish are relating to. With that being said, I could fish thoroughly from the outside in of the point or hump. I've literally written off barren points with no structure. I've been focused in on rocky points and points I know have rockpiles. I haven't even checked up at a point with barren ground. With all of these posts considered, I should consider any point with access to deep water as a viable option until eliminated.

I bet he has a hard time hiding from prey!

These are very true statements. I've got over 2K in fish finders and sometimes I'm staring at them wondering if they are speaking a foreign language. I see fish, but I can't always catch said fish. Sometimes I wonder if the things even works! I know I have a healthy population of striped bass in my home lake. I think a lot of times i confuse them for schooling spots. I know that my units are key to my deep water success, or at least a great shortcut. I have been spending a lot of time with them lately. I was basically using them as a depth finder and a temp monitor like so many other shallow water guys. I know a lot of fisherman, and I believe very few of them really know what they are looking at on those 10 to 12 inch screens. I know I have a tough learning curve of figuring what is what, and what to target. Right now I am mainly using them to educate myself of what is under the water. I am looking for bait and structure on points and humps. I'll scan and mark and come back at a later time to fish. I don't usually pay much attention to "fish". I know thats crazy, right? This is all great advice and greatly appreciated. I am going to digest and apply these things to my fishing. I will update you guys accordingly and let you know how it's going. Thanks and keep em coming!

Lots more great advice....Keep it coming. Questions 1. If there is no thermocline, is there still a preferred depth range. If my HB is marking fish or bait consistently at 12-15, do I start there? What about cold water from late fall until spring time? 2. My biggest issue with deep water (I think). How long do you hang out and fish a spot before deciding to look for something else. Being a shallow water fisherman, I make about 6-10 casts (if that), if I haven't been bit, I'm moving on down the line. Obviously, Side Scan can be a huge help in this scenario since we are trying to locate structure under the water. So we have determined the thermocline and where the fish are hanging out. Do you guys just pull up to an area if the depth range and give an area a shot, or do you scan for structure and bait fish first? Is there something that MUST be present for you to fish an area. Bait? Whatever structure you have patterned them to? These questions seem silly I know. I'm having to try really hard to learn patience and fish an area thoroughly. I know some of these areas can be more productive than they are being for me, but I have trouble hanging out somewhere I don't have confidence in.

Thanks. That is helpful. See you have a system and that is what I am looking for. I usually just go out, pick some point I'm familiar with and throw at it aimlessly and catch and occasional fish or two. Using the thermocline, is that a summertime only thing? Do you have the same process in winter when the water cools and they head back down?

I am an experienced fisherman. I am very efficient in the grass, flipping docks, dissecting banks with cover and anything else that comes with fishing in less than 10 ft of water. I really struggle once I leave this comfort zone. I have started dedicating my time to only fishing water deeper than my comfort zone. I have had some limited success, but not a lot. I have eliminated a lot of unproductive water.... I think. Here's my problem, I'm tired of feeling like I am out of options when the shallow water bite isn't there. I know that I am one dimensional and when that top water and shallow water bite is off, i don't know where to go. I keep struggling and fishing all day for the one or two bites I will get in shallow water. I want to be able to change gears of go deep. Sometimes when I decide to try I will sit on a deep point holding my shakey head rig for 20 minutes before I move on and repeat. There is no real process. Here's what I know. I can read a map. I can find points and humps. I have a ton on my home lake. I know there is no replacement for experience. I also know that there are some very good deep water bass fisherman on here that can begin locating deep water bass very quickly and hone in from there to find the better fish. That's the advice I am looking for. I am willing to put in the time and effort. I will stay out for 6-8 hours scanning humps or slow rolling crank baits. How do you guys figure out where you are going to start, what makes a point or hump a viable spot or not worth stopping at? I am welcoming all advice starting with map reading to what to look for with scanning and how to cover these areas quickly to determine if they are productive. One last piece of info, my home lake is not a river system with ledges. It is a massive spread out man made lake. . Thanks in advance.

Looking for a boater link for all Bama Division BFL tournaments

I own a Humminbird 597CI and I have recently purchased the Lakemaster Southeastern SD card. I put the card in and nothing happens. I run across some information on the internet about software updates for these units. I specifically go through all of the instuctions and attempt to update the unit using an SD card. No luck. I don't know if there is something I am missing or what. Has anyone had any issues with something similar?

I'm learning a small 3600 acre lake in South Alabama. I have only been out a few times, but this is what I have learned so far. I am hoping someone can help come up with some new strategies. It is 90% covered with submerged grass and alot of emergent grass as well. I have had absolutely no luck on top of the grass, but I think thats just the time of year and water temp. That will come around eventually. I've tried Texas rigging, spinnerbaits, Jigs, hard jerk baits, flukes, and have had no luck getting these fish to hit. The only fish I have been able to catch were in an area that was not covered in submerged grass. I found a rip rap wall and fished it hard because it was the ONLY different area I could find. It paid off, I caught 15 or so fish in a matter of a couple hours. However, I know there are fish in other areas around this lake, and I wanna learn how to target them. Any advice?

I am possibly going to be accepting a position in Mobile, Alabama. I am looking for a bass club to fish with. Also any tips or locations of good bass fishing would be appreciated.

I am looking at possibly taking a job in the Mobile, Alabama area. My only concern about moving there is the bass fishing. I am hoping someone on here can tell me more about the bass fishing atmosphere in this area. I know there is saltwater there and I can fish in the ocean, but it's not the same. I love fishing and tournament fishing. Ideally I would like to join a local club.

I am looking to find a boater to link with for the weekend series. I also have another person that is looking to do the same. Please let me know if you might be interested.

Im in Alabama fishing freshwater lakes. I guess stripers would be the main target.

I am interested in learning to catch hybrids and stripes. I have been on one striper trip and had a blast. Does anyone have any tips as to how to get started learning to catch these things? I know most people use live bait and the best bait depends on your region. I am clueless as to what I need to be doing. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Well here is the update...... I almost feel dumb. My buddy came over and he suggested that before we even start trying to get further into this thing we should rule out the boat completely and hook the TM straight to the battery. I argued with him a little bit and told him that I had voltage at the plug, that told me that everything was good as far as the boat was concerned. Well he won and we did it. The trolling motor runs like a brand new one. As a said the boat had been sitting up for a little while now. There was a bad connection inside of the front panel behind the female receptacle. The connection looked good and would pass voltage but the wires had rusted right there and apparently would not pass the current needed to run the TM. We have replaced the connection and I am about to go stick her in the water and see what other issues I need to address. I think I am going to re run the wires for the trolling motor completely once I get back to avoid any future issues like this. I really appreciate your help and advice!

Thanks for the response. I am still chasing the problem. All of the wires in the foot control and anything else I can see look great. No corrosion at all. This thing practically still looks brand new. I went through all the speed controls and settings and even did it again tapping on the switch and the relay under the pedal to see if I could "unstick" something. No luck there. The prop spins very smooth, I decided to pull the motor just to see if there were broken windings or bad brushes or anything visiibly wrong. The armature looks good, bearings are smooth, brushes still look brand new. No rust or corrosion at all. With the armature pulled from the system my short between PWR and GND goes to 8 ohms rather than 0. I know that doesn't really tell me anything as I have completely changed the circuit and 8 ohms is still a dead short. Just letting you know my observations. I have not popped the top part off of the motor, as I am a little nervous as to what I will see. Judging by the schematics you posted, All i see is moving parts. Are there electrical parts in the top, or do the wires just move through there and on down to the motor?

My boat has been sitting up for around a year due to a military deployment. So today was my first real chance to get out and really work on it. I had a motor guide on it that has an issue, so instead of addressing that issue I decided to put another one on it. I have a Minn Kota All Terrain 55lb thrust that has been sitting in the shed for about a year. It worked fine when I discontinued use of it. Well I mounted it to the boat and plugged it up. Nothing. Here is what I know. It does not work in MOM or CON. I have a good battery and have voltage at the plug. It is a two wire system from the plug to the pedal. I can read voltage across these two wires until you attempt to run. The voltage then drops to 0, let go and voltage goes high again. What could be loading my motor? Am I wiring this correctly? Red to 12VDC and Red/Black to GND (Yes it is a 12VDC motor)? If anyone has any advice or has seen this issue before, please let me know.

The carpet in my boat is getting to the point where it needs to be replaced. I have a 17" stratos. I was wondering what would be a reasonable price is for having someone do it? Also is this something I could tackle myself with limited knowledge of installing carpet? It has one rod locker, two livewells, and two storage compartments. It doesn't look like it would be a hard job, I just don't want it to look like crap. How hard is it to get the carpet cut correctly along the sides? The first quote I had was 1500.00. I will not pay that!

Thanks guys! Two really good responses. Thats why I love Bass Resource, so much knowledge in one spot. You guys pretty much just reenforced my current train of thought. I was getting really tired of trying to change over batteries after one gets low. I'm just going for more time. I have been getting a good 6 hours of "hard trolling" out of a battery, I just wanted to push it on out to 8 or 9 for those good days. I am going to go with the parrallel 12V batteries. I think this is alot better. Ok....a question on charging. Can I charge them while still in parrallel? Would I be better off with a trickle charge or higher amp charge for doing that?

I have a question, that I am sure some Bass Resource expertise can help me with. I have a 12V trolling motor. I am thinking of getting two batteries wired in parrellel to get more fishing out of a full charge. I understand that I need identical batteries and all that good stuff, I want to know if someone has done this. Is this a logical solution or is taking another 12V battery still the most logical? It's just so much trouble to get back there and change it out.